Easy Bending of Gargraves Flex Track with 2 Sided Jigs

Buzz,

Cannot thank you enough for posting such a detailed instruction for bending Gargraves.  Dad a few questions, are you putting in a 2nd or 3 level of track, and how will you keep the track noise down?

JoeG

JoeG

I have 3 layers. Frankly I haven't been concerned about the noise level. I may be mistaken, and  sorry in the end, but so far I find the sound level OK.. Admittedly I was trying to save some time and money by not using cork or silicon which is even more expensive. I have actually sold the Midwest Cork Product several months ago. Currently I have not placed the ballast but plan to after I am convinced there are no track issues. I do not know if you have seen my article about the issues I was having with the Atlas CZ cars. I feel that I am nearing a cure for the derailing issues by grinding the roller so that they have rounded shoulders. It is taking some time and there have been other family events, and  train events that have had priority.

The other factors that guided my decision, not to use cork, Homesote, or Vinyl is that I have a stand alone barn that has a noise absorbing ceiling that I feel works very well. My barn is a Morton Barn. The sound absorbing ceiling has done what the builder said it would do. We have been running 4 trains of 14 - 20 car lengths at a time, without any scenery or buildings which should only make it  better when that phase is started. I plan to run 6 trains at a time plus operating the hump yard. I will try to add some pictures if interested in the next week or so of the layout with most of the track completed. Thanks for the inquiry.

Buzz

To the OP:  Congrats....and job well done!  Very, very impressive.

However, I still feel the terms "easy" and "Gargraves flex track" are mutually exclusive.  I tried it once in the mid-80s, failed miserably, and vowed never to do it again.  Fortunately, when I got back into the hobby in 2002 or so, Gargraves and Ross had started to sell fixed curves.  I was off and running.

When I was younger, I watched two buddies build their modest layouts using HO Flex Track.  They could literally mark out their desired radii on the table top, add some cork road bed, and the easily bend the flex track at will. With little to no effort.

I ordered GG flex track expecting something similar.....and wound up very, very disappointed. 

What the OP has done is more the work of a fine craftsman than an easy install of GG flex track....in my very humble opinion, that has much, much respect for what he was able to accomplish/build.

tplee posted:

JoeG

.... I will try to add some pictures if interested in the next week or so of the layout with most of the track completed. Thanks for the inquiry.

Buzz

Look forward to THAT!

Well done!!!  Looks like you are going to have a beauty of a layout, Enjoy!!!

Gargraves is easier to work with than Atlas flex track. I did not build Jigs for my radii. I drew out the radii I needed, with a transition at the beginning and at the ends. I tend to over bend the gargrave flex to an Atlas 081 section radius piece then expand it to 0100 or 096.

Nice work, enjoyed the pics.

Buzz,

Thanks for the update. and am really looking forward toward your pics. Great Job!

JoeG

tplee posted:

I use two sided jigs that I have made to make my track curves as smooth and consistent as possible.The jigs are made from 1/2" MDF.  Each jig has two radii for each curve radius that I will need. Those radii are 72", 80", 88", 96", 104", 112", 120". AS an Example for O-96" I made the top of the jig radius 46 15/16" and the bottom radius 49 1/16". They are 48" long, and close to 4" wide. The lessor radius is always on the top and the greater on the bottom. This arrangement allows me to bring the ties in contact with the jig from the outside, or the inside of the curve. The track ties can be brought into contact with bar grip clamps and fastened down as you proceed.

 

Jig Radii     Top (inside)    Bottom (Outside)

72"             34 15/16"       37 1/16"

80"             38 15/16"       41 1/16"

88"             42 15/16"       45 1/16"

96"             46 15/16"       49 1/16"

104"            50 15/16"       53 1/16"

112"            54 15/16"       57 1/16"

120"            58 15/16"       61 1/16"

 

The radius can be cut by following the circumference tool's drawn line as shown. Or if available use a Festool jig saw with the special curve cutting attachment.

 

If I am laying parallel tracks. I use an addition jig that will allow the appropriate inter-track clearance. Or, I use multiple, equal sized blocks, (6 to 8) every 3 or 4 ties off the original installed curve. This option allows easy installing of curves that are not the standard size radii. instead of 96" you might need 94 1/2" radius, which would require a set of 2 5/8" blocks between the 104" radius ties and the desired 94 1/2" radius curve vs the 1 7/8" for the 96"radius curve.

 

 Group of Jigs 

 80" 88" 96" 104" 112" 120" and 72" (Not Shown)

 

 

The start of the Double Main Curve

 

 

Base for Double Main Curve

 

 

Final Check of main. 

That it is consistent, straight, and equal distance from edge

 

 

Jig Use

The jig is screwed down on both ends

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Clamping 

Clamping makes mating of new section easy and smooth.

 

Mated Sections

I usually have to tap the far end on individual rails to get them tight and a smooth curvature.

 

Outside Main Completed

 

 

Starting Inside Main

Jig placed and assisted by clamping

 

Setting Inside Jig

 

 

Alternative method is to use a multiple blocks against the first set curve.

This works very well if you want a non conventional radius size like 86" or a 74" radius.

 

Completed Inside Main Curve

 

 

The Real Test

Do I have enough clearance between the Big Boy and The Allegheny and Lionel Auto Carrier and Atlas 21" CZ. The tightest issue I have is the Big Boy and the Lionel Auto Carrier (on the outside Track)

 

 

 

 

 

 

Do I have enough clearance between the Big Boy, The Allegheny, Lionel Auto Carrier and Atlas 21" CZ. The closest is the Big Boy and the Lionel Auto Carrier

 

Thanks for Looking

Buzz

Buz, thanks for a great thread. I did have a question though once you bend the track into the curve and you screw it down is the radius pretty much set?  I'm wanting to do this on an upper level that's only wide enough for the track per se, and wanted to be able to bend it down below to the correct radius and then relocate up above. Can this be done with your method?

Thanks, Joe Gozzo

A slightly different approach.  We used a large compass, and kept the center rail in-line with the compass point, (ball point pen), as we continued to screw the track down every 3 to 4 inches.  Atlas track screws were used.

The initial pen lines were used to install cork roadbed.

Center point all curves.

Ball point pen on top of the center rail as screws are being installed.  You are also adjusting all ties as you work at fastening the piece of flex track.  Rail Ends are squared with a dremel cut-off at the end of each flex track section before the next section is installed.  Used/re-cycled, flex track was used for this project.  I tended to add wood ties as needed.

Works for radii, the template method, IMO, probably works better for curves that are not symmetric.

Have fun with your project.

Mike CT

Modular wiring for one of the curved section modules.  There are (4) track circuits Red/White/Blue/Black.  Green is common color for all tracks.

Mike, where did you get the cork roadbed, and how did you curve the cork?

Joe Gozzo

Great article, but the size of your train room is fantastic!! Pretty cool!

Trainlover160 posted:

... how did you curve the cork?

 split cork roadbed (split down the center at a 45° angle) will bend quite naturally when laid down to follow the track centerline.  i use a few nails to tack it down as the track will eventually firmly secure it to the substrate.

Good morning Buzz, I like your idea for bending the Gargraves track and keeping the curves uniform.

Looks great thanks for the idea !!!!!!!

Buzz,

Great work both on the Jigs and pulling together such a nice post.

May I add one more jig suggestion to your collection.

A curve easement jig. 

Instead of abruptly transitioning from straight to full curvature, ease on into the curve! 

Start with a 10 inches of straight, then make a continuously changing curve that starts at something like a 0-200 (100 in radius) and smoothly transitions to O-72.  You can decide how rapid the change in curvature is.  My guess is going from O-200 to O-72 over a run of about a foot or so would be good.  Along the easement curve, mark where tangent points to curves are.  Eg O-120, O-112, O-104 etc.  That way you know how far to lay track along the easement before you start with your fixed curvature jigs. 

Like your jigs you would need one "innie" and one "outie".   But you need only two easement jigs!

Hey Bill, you wouldn't happen to have a drawing of what your talking about with the easement jig?

BILLP,  makes a great point about easements. The beauty of using flex track is to make your curves look less symetrical. Make the track go where you want it to go. Not where the compass tells it to. If you want your curves to look perfect. You may as well just buy sectional track. On an operation note. I run body mounted Kadee's. Even on passenger cars. On curves with an easement. No derailments even if the curve turns into an 072. Without them. Instant derailment coming off a straight portion into the curve. When I built mine 28 years ago. I made up a jig and would bend the Gargraves to roughly an 072 curve. From there Iwould place it on the layout and just tweak it to fit where I wanted to end up. I would just bend it back slightly to create an easement.

 If I were starting over today. I would use ROSS sectional track. If 072 was my minimum. I would start with say an 096. Then an 084 followed by my 072's to complete the curve. Use the same formula exiting the curve. It may not come out exactly where you want it to. Then use flex track to get it back on course. On the prototype. The terrain and surroundings dictated where the track went.

Great information....Thank you.

John

using wider radius track to modify the entrance and exit from a curve is ok, but don't forget the complete term... it is called a "spiral easement", the point being to start with an infinite curve (straight track) and gradually ease into the full curve, not just widen the entrance with a less severe abrupt change.

@tplee posted:

I use two sided jigs that I have made to make my track curves as smooth and consistent as possible.The jigs are made from 1/2" MDF.  Each jig has two radii for each curve radius that I will need. Those radii are 72", 80", 88", 96", 104", 112", 120". AS an Example for O-96" I made the top of the jig radius 46 15/16" and the bottom radius 49 1/16". They are 48" long, and close to 4" wide. The lessor radius is always on the top and the greater on the bottom. This arrangement allows me to bring the ties in contact with the jig from the outside, or the inside of the curve. The track ties can be brought into contact with bar grip clamps and fastened down as you proceed.

Jig Radii     Top (inside)    Bottom (Outside)

72"             34 15/16"       37 1/16"

80"             38 15/16"       41 1/16"

88"             42 15/16"       45 1/16"

96"             46 15/16"       49 1/16"

104"            50 15/16"       53 1/16"

112"            54 15/16"       57 1/16"

120"            58 15/16"       61 1/16"

The radius can be cut by following the circumference tool's drawn line as shown. Or if available use a Festool jig saw with the special curve cutting attachment.

If I am laying parallel tracks. I use an addition jig that will allow the appropriate inter-track clearance. Or, I use multiple, equal sized blocks, (6 to 8) every 3 or 4 ties off the original installed curve. This option allows easy installing of curves that are not the standard size radii. instead of 96" you might need 94 1/2" radius, which would require a set of 2 5/8" blocks between the 104" radius ties and the desired 94 1/2" radius curve vs the 1 7/8" for the 96"radius curve.

Group of Jigs

80" 88" 96" 104" 112" 120" and 72" (Not Shown)

 

Buzz,

What type of tool did you use to cut out the curved templates from the 1/2" MDF board?

Thanks,

Just rediscovered this thread - great info. 

Were you able to get an accurate cut just by using the jigsaw, or did you sand to the line or use a circle-cutting jig?

I remember talking with you at a meet in central Indiana regarding the plans for your layout.  Since this thread was started over 9 years ago, I'm wondering how the layout turned out.  Have you posted any pictures of it?

I was going to wonder why nobody makes and offers these jigs commercially, and then realized it would take a set for every radius.

@Mallard4468 posted:

Just rediscovered this thread - great info.

Were you able to get an accurate cut just by using the jigsaw, or did you sand to the line or use a circle-cutting jig?

Im wondering the same thing, if there is some type of circle cutting attachment I can purchase for a jigsaw?  I tried cutting my templates out freehand using a jigsaw, but there are certainly a lot of imperfections doing it that way, maybe I just need to go back and sand out the imperfections.

@Berkshire President posted:

However, I still feel the terms "easy" and "Gargraves flex track" are mutually exclusive.  I tried it once in the mid-80s, failed miserably, and vowed never to do it again.  Fortunately, when I got back into the hobby in 2002 or so, Gargraves and Ross had started to sell fixed curves.  I was off and running.

Actually, I found Gargraves flex to be easier to use than sectional track.  You have unlimited flexibility in laying the track, and if an O72 curve isn't quite right, it can be an O75 curve.   I did my entire layout with Gargraves and Ross.  I did use Ross O72 sectional curves for certain places where I knew I needed exactly O72.  However, I used three cases of Gargraves flex for most of the track.  It also mates perfectly with my Ross switches.

I used this Harbor Freight cutoff saw for most cutting, and the Dremel for the rest.  The HF cutoff saw was $30, I see it's back there again.