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Gd Morning Members:

I'm just doing some futuristic planning for my Lionel F3's, and a couple of my other conventional trains.  I want to have ERR Boards installed on my trains for cruise control and probably sound; my question is however: Upon the modification of the train, does the pulling power & traction of the locomotives suffer when the ERR components are installed.  I'm assuming slight physical alterations would have to be done during the transformation and when they are done does the trains power suffer if the train becomes lighter in weight?  Once again, Thanks for you time, patience and expertise.      MARSHELANGELO

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Ditto what Marty says but to answer your first question there will be no difference in pulling power. The weight change is negligible. The same voltage on the track will produce essentially the voltage at the motor at full speed. You should actually increase pulling power at lower speed with command since peak voltage at the motor will be increased, just for shorter period of time.

In conventional the amplitude of the voltage is changed to change speed. In command the period of time that peak voltage is applied to the motor is changed.

Hope that is clear.

 

Pete

I'm considering Wabash, Texas Special, Union Pacific, New Haven - all Postwar type F3's.  I have a new Santa Fe Black Bonnet and new Santa Fe Warbonnet also.  All of these have the old type armatures which are wire wound, similar to HO racing cars.  I'm just trying to get my Post War trains upgraded so that I can use Legacy Control with them and want them to have sound and run as close as possible to Odyssey control capability.

I don't know the exact weights because honestly not that anal retentive about it. but I have 2 f3's both are a/c versions #218's one I upgrade the other I did not. in upgrading I pulled out the e- unit, the horn, a few brakets, and some other electronic thing. and replaced it with a small almost no weight at all err board. yes the weight difference in noticeable. I noticed the err upgraded f3 can no longer pull a b unit and dummy a unit and 4 passenger cars up my incline the incline is a 3% grade using woodland scenic foam incline set. now is my layout perfect with drops every 8 ft and such no but the incline has a drop and my main line has a drop and voltage on the incline is 16.7 volts so that shouldn't be the issue. this engine also has magna traction with fastrack as my track which all might play into it.

 

Originally Posted by marshelangelo:

I'm considering Wabash, Texas Special, Union Pacific, New Haven - all Postwar type F3's.  I have a new Santa Fe Black Bonnet and new Santa Fe Warbonnet also.  All of these have the old type armatures which are wire wound.......

Let me try to clarify this a little (maybe ). Not sure when you say "Postwar type" if you mean these are engines made in the actual Lionel Postwar period (1950s and 60s), or made later. All of the Lionel conventional F-3s (all of which have Pullmor AC motors) can be considered "Postwar type" in that they have the same general bodies and the same type of AC, armature motors. These engines have been made from the early 1950s to the present. (Not to be confused with the "scale" F-3s and F-7s Lionel has made more recently, which have DC can motors.)

 

However, as Chuck was referring to, there are differences in those AC armature motors, depending on which engine you're talking about and which year it was manufactured. Lionel made changes to these motors over the years, although they may look pretty much the same. The main variations that might affect operation of ERR components would have been on motors in certain engines made in the 1950s (I think). 

 

If any of your F-3s are ones manufactured in the 1950s, at least, you should call ERR and ask them about whether ERR components can be used in those engines, as Chuck suggested. On many of them, however, as well as most everything made after that, the ERR components should work. But you should definitely contact ERR before ordering.

 

As others have noted, with the AC Pullmor type motored engines, no cruise control installation is possible. Those cruise control electronics will only work with DC motors, which are found primarily in engines of more modern design. The ERR cruise control upgrades can be used only with those type motors. While Lionel still makes a few AC Pullmor motored engines from time to time, almost all the new stuff now has DC can motors.

 

So in summary, the vast majority of AC Pullmor type motored engines can be upgraded with ERR components to give them TMCC command control, RailSounds, electrocouplers, directional lighting and constant voltage lighting, but not cruise control. However, although there is no cruise control available, if these TMCC engines are operated with Legacy controllers, they run noticeably smoother and at lower speeds than is possible when operating them using the older TMCC Cab 1 controllers. Without going into detail, this improvement is due to the different type of electronic signal used by Legacy controllers as opposed to the older TMCC Cab 1 controllers. Part of the design of Legacy was to facilitate improved operation of older engines, as well as operational advancements for the new stuff. I've never heard anyone mention any change in pulling power, etc. as a result of an ERR conversion, only operational improvements (and more fun!).

Last edited by breezinup

Just to emphasize what others have said:

 

Your PW/Pullmor F3's will NEVER approach the operation of modern power. They cannot

have cruise control (therefore will act nothing like Odyssey/Legacy/etc), and are not

capable of acting in a modern way. 

 

Which isn't to say that you don't have nice locomotives of a certain technological

era, and that you shouldn't upgrade them, but if you want modern behavior you will

need to purchase modern locomotives equipped with DC can motors - which is most of them. They will come with the good stuff, or can be easily upgraded to it.

 

 

 

What I have done to several older Lionel F-3 sets that I like which haven't been made again (Illinois Central City of New Orleans and Santa Fe blue freight scheme) has been to buy later version F-3 sets that were already equipped with TMCC, RailSounds, electrocouplers, directional and constant voltage lighting, finished interior, etc., and swap the shells. I then sell the shells from the newer engines on the Bay.

 

This may be somewhat more expensive than going the ERR route, although adding ERR TMCC, RailSounds, electrocouplers etc. plus installation to multiple engines can get expensive. In any case, I end up with TMCC etc. not only on the powered engine, but on the dummy A and B as well, so all dummy engines are fully equipped with remote TMCC electrocoupler, directional lighting and constant voltage lighting,in addition to the RailSounds in one of them.

 

I also take the finished cab interior with crew figures out of the newer cabs and put those in the other shells, and mount aluminum foil inside to reduce the cab lighting to a low level. Another easy improvement: use two or three layers of masking tape and tape those inside the cab over the cab number lenses - it dulls those down nicely, and makes the numbers readable as well. Anyway, the end result is a nicely upgraded set of engines.

 

The only part of this procedure that takes a little doing is swapping the RailSounds speaker. The F-3s that come with RailSounds have a molded-in circular frame with screw receptacles that the speaker mounts to on the roof, and that has to be replicated. On one of the sets, I just cut out the top of the shell that had the speaker frame and glued into the inside of the other shell. That destroyed the shell, of course, but it was fairly quick to do. On the other set, I found a cap from a jug of laundry soap that was exactly the same size as the speaker (2" across), and cut that out to fit inside the roof, glued that in, made four small posts for the mounting screws to screw into, and went with that. That procedure took a fair amount longer (including time finding a workable circular frame), but it worked fine. Of course, the second time doing something like this would go far quicker!

 

I don't know if the ERR RailSounds upgrades for traditional F-3s come with a roof mounting frame or not, but I doubt it, and am not sure how the speaker would be mounted. Note that the speaker openings, which are open vents in the roofs, are already in place on all the F-3s, which allow the speaker sound to vent the shell. On the newer engines and some earlier Postwar, there are screens covering the openings, and the other F-3s have louvered vents. The speaker is positioned directly under the vents.

 

Sorry for the long-winded explanation.

Last edited by breezinup

Hey Gents, I gather that at the most I can hope for is utilizing an AC commander on my F3's and that would be sufficient and the hope of adding railsounds it would more than I could ask for. With that in mind I'll start preparing for the conversions and thank you all for your support (Long winded and short breathed versions). I'm sincerely appreciative of your support. 

I.like you love my postwar F3s. I've talked with Roy at Royz  trains  who has all of the tmcc command and railsound components. I have a beautiful MPC Dark green pass F3 ABA that I will upgrade with these additions. Plus I will do a led headlight which I now do with my steam and diesel engines. I want also electrocouplers. I can cram all of this in the power A. I don't want a tether however from the A unit to the B and non powered A. I do want a electrocoupler on the non powered A. There's a component that allows this to be stand alone and is operated with whistle or bell button As far as the led headlamps there's a led bulb just to swap out ,works great no wiring to be done  I did do one tmcc cab swap at a greatly reduced price on tmcc ACL ABA set  Did the exchange then sold the ACL set as a conventional set at auction I did this with my MPC PRR burgundy pass ABA. It worked out great. I do want to do the cab interior yet  I Love these post war engines. I want to do more. I have fun doing this !

I.like you love my postwar F3s. I've talked with Roy at Royz  trains  who has all of the tmcc command and railsound components. I have a beautiful MPC Dark green pass F3 ABA that I will upgrade with these additions. Plus I will do a led headlight which I now do with my steam and diesel engines. I want also electrocouplers. I can cram all of this in the power A. I don't want a tether however from the A unit to the B and non powered A. I do want a electrocoupler on the non powered A. There's a component that allows this to be stand alone and is operated with whistle or bell button As far as the led headlamps there's a led bulb just to swap out ,works great no wiring to be done  I did do one tmcc cab swap at a greatly reduced price on tmcc ACL ABA set  Did the exchange then sold the ACL set as a conventional set at auction I did this with my MPC PRR burgundy pass ABA. It worked out great. I do want to do the cab interior yet  I Love these post war engines. I want to do more. I have fun doing this !

I put an AC Commander in a set of F3's a while back. All lighting was upgraded to LED's, including adding Red/green markers. I added a cab and figures too.
The powered engine was a straight forward install, getting the tether to work in the trailing A was a PITA. If I do another one, I'd use a second board in the trailing unit for lights and coupler.

Looks like a lot of room under the shell but it fills up quick.

2022-06-23 16.24.07

2022-04-13 07.56.22

2022-04-10 15.30.372022-04-10 15.41.362022-06-11 17.24.19

Bob

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2022-06-11 17.21.25

Wow! I like that  Great job I want to do the same  Using a second commander in the other A unit sounds good  Never thought of that The marker lights look to be challenging  I thought of doing in but it looks intense  Any advice I welcome greatly

The markers were a PITA....normally these boards use common anode LED's. I did that but they wouldn't work no matter what I did. With help from @gunrunnerjohn, he noticed that I had an older, and rare version of the R2LC board that used common cathode LED's. Once I swapped them the lights worked fine.
Here's the link to the post in my build thread.

These engine shells had the marker lights molded into the shell, not the actual lights. I had to drill the shells to install them. A bit of a pucker factor when taking a drill bit to a nice clean shell.

John- old threads never die...they live on in infamy!

Bob

@RSJB18 posted:

These engine shells had the marker lights molded into the shell, not the actual lights. I had to drill the shells to install them. A bit of a pucker factor when taking a drill bit to a nice clean shell.

I guess I'm reckless, I've drilled a ton of shells for markers/class lights.  I do confess I start with a tiny drill in a pin vise to make sure I don't screw up the starting position of the hole.  Once you have a pilot hole, then you can more confidently drill the hole for the LED.  For diesel shells, I mostly use the 2mm tower LED types, they work well and come in all sorts of flavors and lengths.

   

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