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Hello All,

I am a complete newbie father of a 5 year old who loves trains. We have in the past two years bought two lionchief starter sets (Pennsylvania flyer & a Thomas set). For this year, I told him that I'd build him a train table for the basement to run them on. I bought a bunch of new track, 7 new switches, a new power supply (GW-180) to build this. For the past month I've built the table and now I'm working on wiring the layout.

I am trying to understand how lionel fastrack remote control switches work. I've been playing with one of the switches and the GW-180 to understand how to wire it. I am confused by several things with this switch:

1. The switch came from the factory with the track jumper going between aux in and aux ground. This doesn't make sense to me when reading the manual, as it depicts the jumper going between aux in and "track jumper". However, when supplied with track voltage with the jumper in this position (aux in & aux gnd), the switch works.

2. The above confuses me, because I thought the point of aux in & aux gnd was to isolate the switch motor mechanism from the track rails. Where the switch track rails would continue to receive track voltage through the pins on each of the track from connected power tracks, and the switch motor would receive independent fixed voltage from the aux in / aux gnd?

3. I had originally connected the switch to the accessory output on the GW-180 (Aux in to B, Aux Gnd to U). When I did this, I measured with my multimeter on the center rail to outside rail on the switch and found it was giving me the 12 v from the accessory output. Which, I assume means that aux in & aux gnd are not isolated from the track rails?

4. When the switch is powered with 12 V connected as described above to aux in & aux gnd, it doesn't power on. The Switch doesn't function, lights don't turn on for the controller or the on switch itself. Is it defective?

In conclusion, it seems to me that if the switch is powered independently from the other connected track it would need to have isolation blocks on either side then?? How does this work if we ever get a conventional train, where the track voltage is variable for the train speed, it would hit the fixed 12 v accessory powered switch rails and speed off?

Sorry for all the questions. I looked around on here with search feature and couldn't find the answers I was looking for in regards to switches and usage of accessory voltage output.

Thanks!

Penn Flyer

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The Jumper & AUX terminals are likely wired wrong internally.

To test this, don't use the ground connection, rely on the common return through the track, or for testing connect the ground to an outside running rail(not a trigger rail) of the switch. Remove the jumper and set it aside. Connect/touch the accessory voltage(set to about 12 volts for testing) lead to each of the three terminals(AUX IN, TRACK JUMPER, & AUX GND) one at a time in order. Your results should be, in order, 1)switch powered, no power to track, 2)track powered, no power to switch, and 3)short circuit.

If you get these results, but in a different order, the reason is that the switches were wired wrong internally. There have been reports of this with samples of FasTrack switches spanning several production runs now. If this is the case, you will have to ignore the labeling and go with the terminal that provides power to the switch, no power to the track, for your AUX power input. The AUX GND post is not needed if you are powering all with the GW-180.

Thanks Rob! This was exactly my issue. The O-36 switch I was working with is wired internally wrong. Putting positive power (B Output) on the Aux Gnd gave me switch power combined with unpowered rails. Out of curiosity, I took one of my other switches of another type (O-72 Wye) and tested it in the same manner. On this one I found that I had to put power on the "track jumper" terminal, wow. I have to say, I am unimpressed with the quality by Lionel on these switches, considering the cost of them. As a former manufacture engineer, I know my *** would've been grilled by the boss if I had multiple production runs spanning years of the same defect. Thanks again for your help.

Penn Flyer

As a point of information, it isn't even that switches with these problems are wired incorrectly, but rather have had their terminal-blocks assembled in an incorrect order.

For clarity only the three pertinent terminals are shown in this pic.

        IMG_3520

The thing is, those three terminals are discrete bits which can be assembled in any order and thus the opportunity for mistakes at the factory. BTW, the four terminals (not shown here) to which the remote control cable is wired can also be assembled out of proper order with similar hijinks ensuing.

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