Finally thinking of upgrading some engines to ERR/TMCC - a few thoughts?

All of these are sure to be can motors with the possible exception of the Lionel GP38, not sure of the vintage of that one.  The Cruise Commander mounts with one screw directly to the chassis, the RailSounds Commander must be isolated.  Double-sided sticky-tape comes in the package with the RailSounds Commander.  There's no issue running the powered upgrade Williams, it's just like the powered one once you install the power kit.

Per the basics, you will find this a very straightforward upgrade. I do mostly steam, so my lighting is pretty straightforward (I don't use lit class or marker lights), and your antenna situation with plastic-bodied diesels is even easier than than with most usually metal steamers. And you will have no chuff switch to mount and cuss at least a little.

The fancier stuff I don't do, so I don't have an opinion.

Take your time with the first one or two. It's hard to mess it up badly if you look at the diagrams. Don't worry about "why" at first; just learn the "how". "Why" will come later.

I've done 2 dozen+ upgrades, some diesel. It's amazing how full that "big" diesel body can get - and often things just don't want to go on that perfect spot. (The cab diesels - F's, FA's, PA's, E's - usually have enough space to rent some of it out; the hood diesels - GP's, RS's - can get tight.) 

The K-line MP15 and Lionel RS-3 have some basic, coggy can motors in them with no flywheels. I still like them, but they probably won't run as well as some of the others. That's OK.  Still good stuff.

I upgraded a Wbb SW-1 to Cruise Commander - and couldn't get the sound in it. The second motor eats up the cab space, and the remaining cubic inches are about equal to that in an HO scale boxcar. Runs like butter, so, that's fine. Sound is nice, but not necessary.

Patience.

It might take a little work, but you should be able to get sound into almost any diesel.  I stuffed cruise, sound, and lots of custom and separately controlled lighting into this RMT BEEP.

Hmm, was their a Lionel GP38 with a Pulmore motor?

Don't remember, that's why I was noncommittal on that one.

gunrunnerjohn posted:

It might take a little work, but you should be able to get sound into almost any diesel.  I stuffed cruise, sound, and lots of custom and separately controlled lighting into this RMT BEEP.

 

John, do you have a picture of The BEEP with the shell off? I'd like to see how you managed to squeeze it all in!

gunrunnerjohn posted:

All of these are sure to be can motors with the possible exception of the Lionel GP38, not sure of the vintage of that one.  The Cruise Commander mounts with one screw directly to the chassis, the RailSounds Commander must be isolated.  Double-sided sticky-tape comes in the package with the RailSounds Commander.  There's no issue running the powered upgrade Williams, it's just like the powered one once you install the power kit.

The GP38 in question is from the "Chessie Diesel Freight" set from 2001, it has dual can motors.

Thanks to all for their replies, I'm about ready to start ordering some boards to start upgrading!

GeoPeg posted:

John, do you have a picture of The BEEP with the shell off? I'd like to see how you managed to squeeze it all in!

Here's the thread where I posted the pictures and description: Cruise Commander Lite Beta Test, Part Deux

I have upgraded to ERR on close to 30 of my engines, steam and diesel, PS1 and conventional, from almost all manufacturers.  I have never regretted doing so on any.  As stated, just follow the instructions and it is not difficult at all (aside from finding space to fit all in, depending upon the engine being upgraded.  All in all, I believe you will be glad you did.

Jesse    TCA  12-68275

Another question, I just realized all of my LED's I have from Evan Designs are from different projects of mine that required 9V batteries. What LED's do I need for a TMCC installation? Evan Designs has LED's for 9V battery, 3 volts, and transformer 7-19 volts. They mention the "transformer" LED's wont work hooking directly to DCC boards because they operate at a lower voltage. Not sure what TMCC runs at, so does that mean I need the 3 volt versions?

You can use the transformer 7-19 volt ones for hooking directly to the TMCC lighting outputs.  Personally, I wire my own with an LED, resistor, and diode.  Mine cost about 10-12 cents for each light.

John if I wanted to power 3 LEDS in a series at a total of 9 volts would I still need a resistor?  I figure 3X3 is 9 but I am not sure if LEDS work this way.

Unless you have precise voltage control and know the exact voltage rating of the LED's, you need current limiting.  Truthfully, it makes no sense not to have current limiting, the LED is a current mode device.

I have an exact output of 8.4 volts.  

You'll have a lot more consistent results simply using a resistor as a current limiter and having some voltage headroom.  You can obviously do as you will, that's my recommendation.  Why this zeal to eliminate a 2 cent part?

No zeal, I have plenty of resistors I am adding LEDS to a constant lighting board.