Your aeronautical craftsmanship is equal or greater than your train modeling! What scale is the jug and the F6F, and what is the HP of their respective engines? THANKS!
"HONGZ" stands for HO scale, N scale, G scale, and Z scale.
Post your non-O scale stuff here!
They are in the 92" to 96" wingspan territory with around 85 cc engines.
Cut all the parts.
Build fuse.
Build wing.
In the 'bones'.
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Are you also a qualified pilot in real life?
Nope. I just crash them from the ground so I can always walk away from them!
OMG! Hopefully NOT! 😐
How high can they fly and retain RC contact?
Everything is within 'line of sight'. Average flying is 1000' left and right and several hundred 'in front'. AMA safety says no people or structures where the plane flies: that way, if it crashes, no one or property is damaged. Usually, it's out in farmland where the only damage is to some corn stocks. The receivers have safety built in them so if loss of signal, plane engine goes to idle and plane goes down in field. There are clubs all across USA for safe flying. Unlike people that fly drones around people and buildings that can harm person and property (plus it's illegal).
Trains: Sept to May, Planes: May to Sept.
Landing, safely:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bNfeyqWyrBw
That landing was sooooo COOL! ☺
The rivet detail on the jug is insane. P-47, F6f, and Corsair all used the same P&W 2800. The Brits didn't have a problem operating the Corsair from carriers, and neither did we once they showed use how to do it.
As a youth in the early fifties, I built several Revell models of those fighter aircraft, and with my dad's contacts at the Brooklyn Navy Yard where he was employed as a civilian naval corpsman, I had a number of those black hard-rubber aircraft models used for WW II aircraft ID training purposes. Wish I had kept those!
RadCam posted:The rivet detail on the jug is insane. P-47, F6f, and Corsair all used the same P&W 2800. The Brits didn't have a problem operating the Corsair from carriers, and neither did we once they showed use how to do it.
It takes about 130 hours just to put on the aluminum tape and rivet detail. Like they say: there's a fine line between your hobby and insanity!
Had the wrong number on my C&O H-8 2-6-6-6; All fixed.
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SP&S Z-8 4-6-6-4 decoder install.
The SP&S was owned by the GN and NP (50/50). James Hill also had stock in the NP and the Burlington and he wanted to merge all four railroads but the ICC nixed it. It finally happened in 1970, after he died a long time ago. Congress finally got rid of the ICC around 1980 after they realized how bad the railroads were (PRR and NYC failure) as the ICC was killing the railroads. Probably the only time a government agency was dissolved!
Not sure when I painted this engine but it was before my digital camera as I have no pictures while painting it. The usual TCS 1517 WOW101 with keep alive. The model is by Key and was made in 1981. It has a huge can motor. Three lead weights in the tender were removed as just the brass tender, by itself, is heavy enough not to derail. A cut off wheel was used to cut through the solder joint on one side of the lead weight and, then, it came off easily.
This model has a functional closed cab diaphragm.
Needed to cut a rectangular slot at the bottom, front of the tender but a thick plate (about 1/16" thick for attaching the diaphragm) needed to be cut. Fortunately, when using a small diameter (used) cut off wheel, the solder joint came loose and the thick plate fell out. Was, then, a lot easier to cut about an 1/8" off the bottom. The top solder joint of the plate was too confined so I drilled/tapped a screw off to one side to secure the plate to the tender along with soldering the bottom of the plate to the tender. Some loco black will be used to touch up the bare brass as it dries dull.
The marker lights had very fragile arms connecting them to the front of the boiler so I wasn't going to drill them out for LED's but, after touching one, it was very loose and fell off. Figure I might as well install marker lights, now, and I drilled out the marker light while holding the marker with some pliers but the pliers came loose and twisted off the marker's arm. There was a small hole for the arm so I used some .020 wire to make a new arm. A small bend was put in the wire and soldered to the front of the boiler. A little too much solder but, with a little black paint, no one will notice.
The fine tip soldering iron was then used to re-attach the marker to the arm. The other marker was sturdy and I was able to drill it out with no problems. Two routing holes for the LED wires were drilled in the front of the boiler. The boiler front was soldered to the boiler so the LED wires were twisted together to make them rigid and, once through the front wire holes, they went to the back of the boiler where I could retrieve them.
All LED's dipped in canopy glue to protect the bare wires plus some black paint for the first couple inches to hide the red wire when routing to the markers lights.
Decoderpro used to insure all wires are 'good' and load in engine address.
Tested on the mainline to make sure all works (had to reverse the can motor leads, again!).
The wires for the marker lights, being from the front, were easy to route to the back of the boiler. The four running boards light wires, being at a 90 degree angle, I thought were going to be difficult but those were easy to route, also. Need to bundle up all the boiler wires, make the 4 pin connector and re-assemble the engine.
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SP&S Z-8 4-6-6-4 decoder install (cont).
Assembly and test run.
Video: at Tye.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kF4H3Ll6ooA
All tested OK except for the tender wheels were not picking up 'juice'...
Normally, just the 4 screws securing the frame to the superstructure is good enough but not in this case. The manufacturer had wires going from the wheels to the draw bar pin but I left the wire disconnected. Soldered a single connector (left over from PFM sound days) from frame wires to superstructure.
Assembled.
Engine would, occasionally, short. Found the brass brake rigging was touching the insulated side drivers. Two were loose and re-soldered.
Road test:
Chumstick Canyon trestle.
Havre.
Wilmar.
Taking on water at Wilmar using BLI's functional water tower.
East of Wilmar.
Waverly.
East of Waverly.
More water at Glacier.
Whitefish.
Skykomish.
Seattle's freight yard.
After doing 33 decoder installs, I think I'm getting the 'hang' of it!
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SP&S Z-8 4-6-6-4 videos:
Hillyard:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zSrrkeq-s5k
Havre:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=u4D1nqCrbAg
Skykomish:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=m0OflENshmU
SF 2-10-10-2 decoder install (TCS 1517).
A Westside model made in 1976. Updates made in 2017.
Videos:
Skykomish:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=G3_I4genYLI
Tumwater Canyon trestle:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GeWHjaFjtn4
In 2017, open frame motor replaced with can motor.
Also, there was no deck or back head detail so that was added before it was painted.
Surprised I didn't add the PFM sound back in 2017 so I had to drill out speaker holes in the tender frame.
Rectangular hole cut in front of tender for decoder wires.
All wires done except those going to the boiler LED's. Headlight (engine/tender), cab light, fire box glow and running board lights were installed in 2017 so it saved me time when installing the decoder.
Decoderpro used to check wiring and add engine number.
Tested on the mainline (can motor wires needed reversing). While in this state I, usually, adjust the chuff rate to 4 per '360'.
Sugar cube speaker used on this engine.
Speaker used.
Will not sound good without the plastic enclosure for the speaker.
Boiler lighting wires, connector done.
In the top front of the boiler was a plate with a screw hole in it. I assume there was a piece of lead that went in there but was not in the engine box so some lead was used with a 4/40 screw to secure it in the boiler. The gear sets run along the center of the boiler so there is little room for additional weight. It's a 'light weight' without a lot of lead so it can only pull 15 cars up the 0.5% grade.
Paper towel is good to form enough friction to secure screw to hex head screwdriver to reach into small spaces.
Assembled.
Unusual back end on this tender.
Departing Seattle's freight yard.
Tye.
Marias pass.
Hillyard.
Havre.
Waverly.
St. Paul. Right tracks to St. Paul's freight yard, left tracks to upper staging yard.
Santa Fe roster: (left to right: 2-10-10-2, 2-10-4, 4-8-4, 4-8-4). All painted in the last 3 years.
SF diesels: E1's and PA's. Besides the PRR centipedes, these are the only diesels on the railroad.
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New delivery.
C&O H-8 2-6-6-6 by MTH.
I have an H-8 by Key and had no intention of getting another one but trainworld had them for $400 (list $600). I checked out a video review of the engine and was impressed: all cast metal (including tender), nicely detailed, sprung drivers (usually only on brass engines), lighted number boards, smoke and could pull a lot of cars. Smoke and could pull a lot of cars pushed me into buying it (remembrance of Lionel days). Also, when they mark 33% off, I couldn't resist. I have an MTH N&W J and was impressed with it so I was familiar with their products. They also make 3-rail O gauge and they are high quality.
It seems most contemporary motive power comes with nice boxes and secure them in a plastic case within a plastic sleeve.
This makes for a pretty secure shipping method.
When I saw the steam dome laying on the box I thought the glue came off the steam done but it has a magnet and covers an access screw.
Cab hatch moves.
Nice brake rigging.
Un-prototypical rear drivers rotate to handle sharp radii but not noticeable on my layout.
Tender electrical pickup.
Interesting how they use a four wire contacts (no plugging in required) to operate functions on the engine side.
Tender side draw bar.
Remotely operated tender coupler which I'll, probably, convert to kadee.
Nice cab detail with crew and a deck plate to the tender.
The side rods are very thin so, probably, will have to make sure they are lubricated to prevent wear. Brass engines have nickle plated brass rods that are thicker.
Key on the left, MTH on the right. Very impressed with the detail on the MTH engine.
Key to the rear, MTH to the front.
Not much difference between the two.
MTH side view.
Key side view.
MTH cab. No way could I paint those window frames.
Number boards lighted. I believe the marker lights are, also, suppose to light but mine doesn't. F5 is suppose to work them but nada. The engine is new but was made in 2015.
Nice smoke out of each stack.
Road test. Nice to be able to pull out a full string of 43 cars out of one of Seattle's yard tracks without slippage. The back drivers have rubber on them (traction tire).
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C&O H-8 MTH videos:
Hillyard:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TFN1-oCGqv8
Havre:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VtUBd69CVGY
Skykomish:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-zDISXafPf0
Local train show at Ross repurposed high school near Hamilton, Ohio.
Sale plus 5 layouts open.
Show in gymnasium.
Four HO, one N scale and one 3-rail.
3 rail.
HO
HO
HO
N
Hoppers 'printed'.
Nice stone train viaduct in Hamilton.
Viaduct is to the far left, bridges span Miami river.
Only planned to socialize but found these nice vintage metal cars with Kadees for only 6 bucks each. Flatcar with load; had to have that! Some Intermountain wheel sets and 'all ready' for the GNRW. Nice book on the Allegheny (good timing) for 5 bucks.
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Looks like it was a wonderful train show today!
More road testing:
SF 2-10-10-2. Had to install a longer shank coupler on the tender with the cow catcher on the rear.
Chumstick Canyon trestle.
Havre.
Marias pass.
Tye
Skykomish
C&O H-8 2-6-6-6.
Videos: something different: taken from a distance giving more view of the railroad.
Chumstick Canyon trestle:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yWBte7M5EP4
Waverly:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YOJpKtbdKgo
Wilmar:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6ddchCRgOLk
Glacier:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nF59E8F-dMI
Whitefish:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sj7i_nHwqjM
Tye:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0PYMUxL0Vt0
Skykomish:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=j6az6NgbTZ8
Seattle:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qc5CtvM7KVs
Marias pass.
Trailing truck came off a couple times. Back wheel was a little too wide. Had to remove to adjust the gauge.
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Running trains.
C&O H-8 2-6-6-6 MTH:
The traction tire came off hauling a 44 car freight train. Put it back on and hope it stays on!
Have two C&O cabeese. This one's marker lights work and the other doesn't and can't figure out why (using NCE's light only decoder).
Weird stuff.
NYC H-10B 2-8-2 PFM. Testing on the mainline and shorts at one spot, consistently (only engine that does this). Must of ran it by that spot 20 times. Thought it was the draw bar contacting the engine frame but nada. Works OK with another tender. Couldn't figure out how it was shorting but no short when just pulling the tender by the decoder wires without draw bar connected so I drilled out the draw bar and put a draw bar insulated washer (with shoulder) on the tender side and all's good. Go figure!
Made a removable coal load for the mike.
More testing. Any new engine always needs a complete run of the mainline, east and west to insure no bugs.
Videos:
Tye:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=t5dS_amBc74
Havre:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=v0z6o7pwHhk
Tumwater Canyon trestle:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KHi3cDVymAg
Whitefish.
Basin tunnel.
Wilmar's watering hole. MMM: got some dirt on the lens, again.
Havre.
St. Paul.
Bare bones area. Three track loop staging. A few flats and vehicles to 'dress' it up some since one can stand in the middle of the 8' wide return loop staging area. It's high (61") so easy to duck under.
A lumber yard made of wood that I made back in the 60's or 70's. Green building is Menard's.
Menard's gas station and Walther's passenger station.
Back to St. Paul.
East of Wilmar.
Glasgow.
Chumstick canyon trestle.
Havre.
Hillyard.
Skykomish.
Seattle's yard throat. Switcher's drill track to the left and lead to the ore dock.
Last week, while installing these microscopic 0402 LED's, one wire broke off. Amazing, I was able to solder it back on. Put some canopy glue on it to secure the area.
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A little PM.
GN S-2 4-8-4.
A Oriental Limited made in 1985. Purchased 2 years ago. Didn't need it but it was 42% off present prices so 'I had to get it'! Discounted as it had some kind of white corrosion around the tender trucks and leading/trailing trucks. I'm guessing that the builder didn't properly clean the brass parts before painting them. The drivers and wheels were fine. I cleaned off the white stuff and painted the trucks and all's good.
Was factory painted. One of the few engines that I didn't have to paint. Has coast drive.
Didn't have a cab number so added one. '2588' was on the decal sheet and non of my other S-2's had that number. Has nice cab detail.
A Tenshodo model. Made back in the early 70's.
Got two of the BLI hybrid versions. Nicely detailed.
Westside model. Made in 1978. Had to paint this one. I like that they included the bell and whistle lanyard.
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Southern Pacific AC-9 2-8-8-4.
Decoder install (TCS 1517 WOW 101). Thought I'd install a decoder in an engine not seen too often versus the cab forwards. This class was used South of LA so, with no snow sheds, 'cab ahead' was not needed. This model was made in 1981 by Sunset. I obtained it in 2016 and painted it. I added all the LED's back then to the markers (engine, tender) headlight (engine, tender) and cab light. While installing the decoder, four running board lights and a fire box glow were added.
All wiring done except 4 pin connector from frame to boiler.
Decoderpro says all's good.
Mainline says all's good!
Front engine support from frame to boiler riding plate.
Assembled.
Digital cameras are great for little light exposure but not good with lights. Both the tender and engine headlight has hollowed out number boards on each side of the headlight so engine numbers were applied to it using thin plastic.
Added 3 hoses for steam/air lines from front articulating engine to boiler. These are fine springs but heat shrink or wire insulation can, also, be used.
Initial tests in the yard resulted in a short. Found the lead truck wheel would touch the side frame. A Kadee thin gray washer solved that.
Road test.
Leaving Seattle.
Skykomish.
Hillyard.
Havre.
Tumwater canyon trestle
Chumstick canyon trestle.
Glacier.
Wilmar.
West of Waverly.
St. Paul. Half the test running East done: Next run is West.
AC-9's 'brothers'. GS-4
AC-4,6,7,12
AC-5.
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Again I'll say your locomotives look fantastic!!
Thanks, Mark.
============
Two engines tested.
SP AC-9 2-8-8-4 final testing: heading West.
Tye
Skykomish
Seattle.
Milwaukee EP-2 bi-polar by MTH.
Thought I'd run this electric but one set of drive wheels would not turn when engine coupler held in place.
Two screws removed to remove top housing. Two wire connector goes to operating pantographs.
Motorized pantograph mechanics.
I figured something wasn't tight so I white marked the drive shaft and one wheel so I could, easily, see what part was slipping.
Wheel marked.
All by itself, the slipping stopped (I hate intermittent problems). Ran it two and half times on the mainline (which is about 650') and no problems so I put the top housing back on. Coupler on back of electric needing adjusting as it was too low. Three freight cars also needed some PM: low couplers and wobbling (don't need them to look like the 60's!). These were the plastic cars made in the 70's.
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Videos:
SP AC-9 2-8-8-4:
Whitefish:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jeGcIaZS7X8
Why I need an eight pin connector between the tender and engine:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=B4s7T6Alvfk
=======
Milwaukee EP-2 bi-polar:
Leaving Seattle:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Iau-pbUkJLU
Hillyard:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vFk5p9t9O40
Functioning pantographs:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3ArDi7DmFC0
More train running.
GN O-8 2-8-2 (open cab) pulling turn of the century passenger cars.
Need one of my H-5 pacifics 4-6-2's but haven't put any decoders in them, yet, for these old passenger cars.
No pictures of painting this engine so it was many moons ago (pre digital age). Sunset model made in 1976. Has a very large can motor.
Some passenger cars that I picked up on ebay from a woman who's father passed away and he built these. He did a very nice job. Always think of him when I run them. Nice to know the history of models.
Skykomish.
West of Waverly.
Wilmar watering hole.
Havre.
Hillyard.
Tye. Lead truck on the engine derailed at this turnout, going WITH the points. Checked and all's in gauge but remembered this same situation on another turnout: points were a little lower than the stock rail and forced the truck off the track (of course only this one engine). Some filing over the sharp edge of the stock rail fixed it. It just occurred to me that, with all the train running, there have been very few derailments.
Skykomish.
12 inches to the foot GNRW. What I'm attempting to replicate, at least the 'flavor' of it!
The previous owner even added green to the clerestory windows.
GN RDC-3 by Hallmark. Was going to run this but no lights.
Only 4 screws to remove bottom frame: quick fix with a bad solder joint for the red wire.
Nice see through screen on the roof.
A few more full size pictures:
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Train running.
NYC Niagara 4-8-4. Engine by Nickle Plate models made in 1977. Cars are 70's AHM models.
GN RDC-3. Hallmark models made in 1985 (silver plated).
Swan River logging company.
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Videos:
GN O-8 2-8-2 pulling turn of the century passenger cars.
Seattle:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8JoQ-pj-vbs
Hillyard:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Hqu2N5MOvOc
NYC Niagara passenger train at Tye:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Otvhc1gwjVg
Just running trains.
UP 4-12-2 bald face pulling vintage metal Athearn/Varney and wood Silver Streak/Ambroid freight cars.
Havre
Chumstick canyon trestle.
Glacier.
Wilmar.
upper 3 loop staging yard.
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Interesting thread with some beautiful locomotives.
As an aside, page 38 has to be the longest page from top to bottom I have seen.
Many great pictures.
UP 4-12-2 bald face pulling vintage freight cars videos:
Skykomish:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SBjYxzaGwco
Tye:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5E0WdsKhyLk
Waverly:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VZ1N14Vb0fE
Heading West.
UP 4-12-2 bald face pulling vintage freight cars.
Leaving ST. Paul area.
East of Wilmar.
Whitefish.
Chumstick canyon trestle.
Havre.
Tye
Skykomish.
Worked on the new track lead to the lower staging (passenger) yard. Some cinders and lots of diluted carpenter's glue (still wet). Still have to cut a hole in the right side of the movable scenery panel before replacing it.
12" to the foot GNRW.
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Just got off my shift pulling a freight drag to Seattle.
Motive power for the day: UP 8500 turbine.
Managed to get some videos:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5Vpw_8qQGc0
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kaYihtoAuaM
Lots of freight car wheel noise over the rails after the turbine noise diminishes.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=B0tJFgEDD6I
Initial inspection:
Yep, sanders working.
Time to get into the cab.
Back up to get freight drag.
Glacier. Plenty of heat in the cab with that turbine!
Exiting Basin tunnel.
Wilmar.
Whitefish.
Tye
Seattle.
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Very nice!
samparfitt posted:They are in the 92" to 96" wingspan territory with around 85 cc engines.
Cut all the parts.
Build fuse.
Build wing.
In the 'bones'.
Cool, is that Nick Ziroli or other? Too big to be one of the older Topflite models. I still have a TF Bearcat. I was always into control line and never really got into RC, but the art is still the same lol Nice jig, nice build!
Dennis Holler posted:samparfitt posted:They are in the 92" to 96" wingspan territory with around 85 cc engines.
Cut all the parts.
Build fuse.
Build wing.
In the 'bones'.
Cool, is that Nick Ziroli or other? Too big to be one of the older Topflite models. I still have a TF Bearcat. I was always into control line and never really got into RC, but the art is still the same lol Nice jig, nice build!
Good eye. Yep a Ziroli.
I always wanted to buy a Royal Stuka, then later I the Ziroli did a big Stuka too. Looks like it goes together well, I’m only 51 so might still take a dive on a big Ziroli build some day. Yours look great!
New delivery:
Milwaukee 3 car passenger set. Made in 1972 by Nickle Plate Products. Factory painted.
Got them on ebay at a good price as they are pretty inexpensive. I bought them since I have a Hiawatha Hudson 4-6-4 that will go well with the cars, especially since they are made by the same manufacturer. From what I remember, the early Hiawatha was a short train so the Hudson and 3 cars should look nice.
Fortunately, the cars are in plastic bags to protect them from the deteriorating foam.
The old foam was disposed of and new foam cut for the box and cars.
Trace of cars made and scroll saw used to cut out the car's profiles.
Nice factory paint job.
Beaver tail.
Milwaukee F-7 4-6-4 Hudson. If I remember, correctly, I bought this engine in the last year.
Disassembly to start LED install and decoder install.
Classification light mounting is thick enough so it can be drilled for the 0402 LED's.
Holes drilled for LED's.
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