Virginian EL-2B electrics assembly (cont) and more conifers.

Virginian EL-2B electrics.

Power units assembled and DC tested.

0402 LED install.

2 LED's at the ladders.

Used canopy glue to secure them.

Headlight.

Marker (classification) lights.

A 'slow' process; can only do a 'few at a time' and then let the glue dry for fear of disturbing other LED's.

Signal checker used to insure LED's work and aren't 'shorting' on the brass superstructure.

===================

Last 2 boxes of the one batch of 10 arrived.

10 more, yet, to arrive.

BEFORE:

AFTER:

About 4 boxes of trees (40 per box).

Area behind the trestle still needs to be 'conifer-ed'!

Cool.  Animation on a steam engine video:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iqdik9-fa-s

Virginian EL-2B electrics assembly (cont);

Window installation.

Another 'slow' process!

Cut out the side windows and made them long on the bottom for 'gluing' purposes.

Guess I should have put them on a 'dark' background for 'picture taking'!

First one had to be removed.

Used carpenters glue to secure the bottom of the 'window' but thought I'd use the 'heat shrink' gun to dry the glue faster but that only melted the plastic window!

A new window installed and glued.  I used some soft foam to keep the 'window' close to the 'window frame'.

Outside view with foam.

Could only do one side 'at a time' but, this time, I used the fluorescent light to help the glue dry faster.

After both sides of the electrics had the 'windows' installed, did the front 'windows'.

Again, only one side at a time.

This time I used 'canopy' glue in case I had some glue that would be visible, this glue dries clear.

Other side done.

Had to re-glue the label back on the box.

Monthly GNRW operating session and Virginian EL-2B assembly.

Videos:

C&O 2-6-6-6 Allegheny departing Havre:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kf5fqDOTkH8

T&P 2-10-4 at Marias pass:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=riTAKSWi6kw

D&RGW L-131 2-8-8-2 passenger train and C&O H-8 2-6-6-6 freight drag.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rbF05tiegh4

PRR centipedes passenger train departing Havre:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aOcYfI92ndA

B&O E-1 A-B passenger train at Tye:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=u7iyW5eMUtA

NH I-5 4-6-4 at Hillyard:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=y6C5wSnMVX4

Usual pizza before 'trains'.

Bill brought some 'home made' cookies and roasted pecans and those 'disappeared' by the end of the evening!

Bill operating the N&W J passenger train bypassing Seattle's freight yard.

Seattle's roundhouse.

Bob with the C&O H-8 2-6-6-6.

N&W J at Tye.

C&O H-8 freight drag.

9 year old Nate getting his Milwaukee bi-polar 'ready' while Ben has the T&P 2-10-4 with some of his new freight cars that he brought with him.

Nate operating the Milwaukee bi-polar electric.

the 'J' at Willmar's water tower.

The 'J' approaching Waverly.

Nate and the bi-polar at Skykomish.

Bob's train at Chumstick canyon trestle.

D&RGW L-131 2-8-8-2 passenger train bypassing Seattle's freight yard.

Mark operating the L-131.

Ben and the T&P 2-10-4 at Hillyard.

Bill and Mark.

D&RGW at Skykomish.

Joe busy as dispatcher.

Nate's train at Marias pass.

Sometimes, easier to 'sit' after all that 'walking' to 'run the train'.

Allegheny at Willmar.

There are 5 functioning water towers on the layout.

The 'J' at Waverly.

Allegheny at Waverly.

Bob and Bill.

PRR centipedes and C&O 2-6-6-6.

D&RGW L-131 at Willmar.

Removing freight cars from 'in bound' tracks.

While the engine goes to the roundhouse.

Bill with the D&RGW passenger train at Hillyard.

PRR centipedes approaching Havre.

B&O E-1 A-B passenger train at Marias pass.

Ben with N&W Y-6B freight drag.

Centipede passenger train bypassing Seattle's freight yard.

NH I-5 4-6-4 at Tumwater canyon trestle.

Glacier.

============

Virginian EL-2B electrics assembly.

Installing a TCS KAM-4 decoder.

Just enough 'room' for the decoder under the 'drive system'.

Motor via the decoder functional; next to 'connect' the wires from the decoder to the LED's.

'smoked' one of the decoders.  Didn't notice that the brass motor bracket was 'just touching' one of the can motor's contacts!

============

Installed another decoder in the GN Z-6 4-6-6-4 that had a 'clicking' sound and all's 'good'.

2 new deliveries.

Processed by UPS but 'handed off' to USPS and they delivered it on a Sunday!

A dealer had a 'black Friday' special with 28% off.

SF 4-6-4 Blue Goose and T&P 2-10-4.

====

SF 4-6-4 Blue Goose imported by BLI (new release).

Video: Yard test.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=G3l2Zgfn9v4

Both are BLI's hybrid series where the boiler and tender superstructure are made from 'traditional' brass.

Always well packaged to prevent damage.

Usual 'clam shell' packaging.

Bottom view.

Nice brake rigging.

Traditional 'draw bar' with 2 holes for the tender.

Fireman's side.

Wasn't expecting lighted 'number boards'.

Full skirting version.

Deck plate.

Tender in farthest draw bar hole....

Tender in nearest draw bar hole.

Functioning light on the back of the cab roof.

Non-functioning red light.

Top views.

'See through' vents.

Nice cab detail.

Engineer's side.

A chain on this side: not sure what that's 'for'!

Found 'something'  by accident....

Hinged smoke stack.

Programming track.

I always go to 'open comprehensive programmer' page.

Basic page.

Saved.

I have a Tenshodo version (right in picture) that was imported in 1971 which has a TCS 1517 decoder, re-motored and LED's added.

I added 'back head' detail.

Tenshodo is a darker blue: I have no idea who is correct!

The 'smoke deflector' is, also, different.  Again, no idea which is correct.

=======================

Texas & Pacific 2-10-4 imported by BLI (new release).

Video: yard test:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cRtHOmw5-2Q

Unusual 'warning' in box.

I guess this would be needed if the owner didn't have 'circuit breakers'.

Bottom view.

The center driver is blind which is not 'prototype'.

The 'usual' BLI Lionel type 'connection' between engine and tender; I prefer the 'draw bar' style.

Fireman's view.

Nice cab detail.

Top views.

Engineer's view.

Programming track.

I, also, have a Sunset model (right in picture) imported in 1978.

Painted, TCS 1517 decoder and LED's installed.

All drivers 'flanged'.

There was no T&P' decals available so I had to add each letter to the tender.

The BLI is a light grey and I was under the impression that T&P used a light green!

BLI has a 'dog house'!

The Sunset model is more detailed. Always fun 'hand painting' all the 'plumbing'!

Looks like everyone had a great time once again!  Those are really great looking engines!!

Moving the UP challenger 4-6-6-4 and other equipment that UP donated for 're-building' video:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ANB9ORRyWJM

UP 4-6-6-4 challenger imported by Tenshodo in 1999 repair (cont).

Masking for the UP dark grey and the fire box.

I used my Key models UP challenger as a reference.

No 'measurements' done; just used 'dividers' and the 'rivets' to locate 'masking locations'.

A lot of 'masking' just to put on very little paint!

Used the 'torpedo' heater to warm up the detached shop.

60 is 'good enough'.

Colors used.

Used so little paint that I just diluted the paint in the 'air brush' bottle and then disposed of any remaining paint in this bottle (not wanting to contaminate or dilute the original bottle of paint).

The 'graphite and oil' paint looks very fragile so this color is the last one that I apply.

I think it would 'pull up' if tape was applied to it.

'Striping' decals will be applied between the 2 paint colors.

Another 2 hours at 200 degrees.

===============

Garbage 'digging'.

A very nice hard maple book shelf was next to the neighbor's garbage cans so I took it.

Needed a place for my railroad books!

UP 4-6-6-4 challenger imported by Tenshodo in 1999 repair (cont) and CNJ 4-6-4T disassembly.

==========

UP 4-6-6-4 challenger 'touch up' painting.

Black on the 'piping', red on the valve handles and brass on, well, the brass!

It, usually, takes about 3 'touch ups' plus 2 hours at 200 degrees, each time.

And white on the 'dials'.

======================

CNJ 4-6-4T imported by PFM (UNITED) in 1969.

Some warm weather for the next few days so I decided to paint this engine.

It's all black so should be an easy 'paint job'.

Drilled out all the headlights and marker lights for LED's using a #57 drill bit in my hobby drill press.

These old engines are built sturdy so no worry about 'twisting' the marker lights while drilling them.

2 holes drilled under the running boards.

Tender head light drilled and drilled 'right through' the marker lights into the back of the tender so it will be easy to insert the LED's.

Disassembly.

UP 4-6-6-4 challenger imported by Tenshodo in 1999 repair (cont) and CNJ 4-6-4T painting and Nate's new engine

===========

9 hours later and I forgot to eat!

UP 4-6-6-4 2-tone challenger.

Decaling and clear coating.

2-tone UP steam gets silver with black outlines.

Tender first.

Fun aligning that narrow decal!

Much easier on the cab side!

There wasn't enough stripes in the UP decal set so I bought thin silver stripes for the side of the 'running boards'.

Insured the 2nd stripe is parallel to the first stripe.

Running board was, also, fun to 'do'!

I find it less likely to have corners 'fold' when applying them when they are cut at a 45 degree angle.

Nothing worse that trying to remove that 'fold' after the decal is on the surface!

One side done.

Funny how I can't see those black outlines on the stripes and nomenclature!

Had to use an old set of decals for the number boards.

Surprised Microscale didn't supply them in the correct size plus they didn't provide the nomenclature that goes under the cab numbers.

Interesting.

When I, first, applied the dark grey it didn't look dark enough...

But now it does with the stripes added!

A soft tissue used to pat, not rub, the decal to remove all water and then pressed to force the decal over any rivets.

Solvaset used, sparingly, to 'set' the decals.   Usually, 2 applications is sufficient.

Took a lot of work getting to this 'stage'!

The 'Union Pacific' is suppose to be centered between the stripes.

The other side no problem.

This side had a large 'tool box' door protruding where part of the decal would 'be.

It would have looked ugly so I just raised the decal to get a 'clean look'.

Happy with how the running board decals 'turned out'.

While 'clear coating' the engine, the 'pressure' dome 'flew off' the needle nose tweezers and landed 'upside down' on the shop floor.  Had to strip it and re-paint it.

200 degrees for 2 hours.

==============

CNJ 4-6-4T painting.

A 'first': got this engine painted, decaled and clear coated in one day.

Of course it helped that there is no tender!

Cleaned all the parts with dish washing fluid.

Used the 'air' to remove most of the water and then into the toaster oven for 15 minutes.

Drilled holes in the 'tender' for either the 'sound' to escape or to install the speaker at this location.

There isn't a whole lot of room in this engine so the speaker will, probably, be located here with a 'soft foam' coal load.

Also, drilled some holes in the frame in case the speaker can fit inside the boiler.

2 coats of black, each at 200 degrees for 2 hours.

I bought a set of champ decals plus I saw this 'dry transfer' decals so I, also, purchased them.

Have used these on my RC airplanes so they must be taped in place so, if all the 'decal' is not transferred to the surface, the decal can be place exactly in the same 'spot'.

Tools of the trade for 'dry transfers'.  I usually use paper stumps from Michaels but I couldn't find them in my shop!

After the first pressure, do it a second time and then do it a third time as one, usually, misses getting all of the decal on the surface!

After 2 coats of black and 2 'bakings', the brass parts painted brass.

Clear coated including the UP 'dome'.

========

With Thanksgiving this Thursday, the Ross meeting was only 3 people and only Nate 'operated'.

We 're-programmed' his new diesel.

C&NW E-4 4-6-4 streamlined Hudson imported by Nickle plate products in 1975.

Disassembly and painting.

Disassembly.

Open frame motor will be replaced.

Drilled holes in the bottom of the tender for the speaker.

Drilled and filed the front of the tender for the decoder's 8 pin connector.

I used this stuff on my RC planes and it's hardens like metal as it has metal in its composition.

Used the JB weld to secure the back head that I installed from PSC (easier than trying to solder it to the boiler).

The 'kwik' JB weld hardens in 'minutes' as it's a 2 part epoxy.

Drilled a hole in the 'back head' for the cab light.

Used soft rubber to hold the back head in place while the 'JB' cooked.

Crew seats added; again, JB weld.

Deck plate added.

Soldered a new 'ladder' to the tender that was 'missing'.

Initially, I didn't think the marker lights were large enough for the 0402 LED's but was able to drill them and make a 'straight' hole into the side of the boiler for routing the LED's.

Ditto for the tender marker lights.

'Dish washer' fluid cleaned and ready for painting.

All the 'valve' gear had rivets so unable to disassemble it.

Worked out better than I thought as easy to 'mask off' the 'silver plated' parts.

Usually, screws are used to secure the truck side frames but these were all soldered so will have to let them 'air dry'.

Taped all the parts that conduct electricity.

Used Scalecoat C&NW green for the boiler and tender and black for 'under carriage'.

Air dry.

This color is not what I was expecting!

All engines that I've seen factory painted is more this color.

I'll have to do some experimenting to duplicate this color.

Possibly I can add white to Pullman green and get this color or a mixture of the present C&NW green with Pullman green.

Any 'artists' out there, 'chime in'!

I can't give any suggestions on altering the paint to get the right color.  All I can say is, when you get the right color, it will really show off your work well.

@samparfitt, I’ve been watching your thread for Years, your layout is amazing, your reviews are fantastic, it’s fun seeing you and your friends and family having so much fun running trains. We wish all of you a very Happy Thanksgiving Day…. Happy Railroading Everyone

thanks Larry.

=============

HAPPY THANKSGIVING.

UP 4-6-6-4 challenger imported by Tenshodo in 1999 repair (BEFORE/AFTER) plus painting/decaling the C&NW E-4 4-6-4 Hudson.

==========

BEFORE:

AFTER:

======================

C&NW E-4 -4-6-4 Hudson painting/decaling.

As, previously, mentioned the Scalecoat C&NW green was too bright so I needed to get creative.

I got advise from my daughter and another railroader on getting the correct color.

I started with the Scalecoat green and added red, yellow and black.

It looked like I had the matching color.

I sprayed the color on a piece of brass and held it up to the picture of the engine on my PC and it looked 'right'.

After painting the engine, though, it was too light.

I was getting 'kinda' close (obviously my required 'art' class in collage didn't help!).

By chance, I looked at my GN W-1 electric with Empire Green and it looked like it would 'work' if I added white to it.

Added about 25% white.

The 'too bright' on the tender versus the 'just right' (at least to my 'eyes') on the engine.

Decaling.

Using Microscale yellow striping.

Can only do the bottom line until the engine and tender are assembled so I can align the stripes between the engine and tender.  I clear coated all the parts below the engine and tender, ie; frame, drivers, trucks so I can mount them to the engine and tender to get 'stripe alignment'.

Got one side done.  The front lines all meet at a single 'point' so I'll do those last.

========================

10 more bags of trees, 20 per bag: these are all the large trees (5.5").

Ordered them directly from the factory and they didn't use all those individual boxes for each set of trees.

Excellent job on both engines, Sam!  The repair looks like new and that green on the other is a nice match

Thanks Mark.

==============

GTW U-4B 4-8-4 streamlined imported by Nickel Plate Products in 1977, more conifers and Harrison, Ohio train show.

=============

GTW 4-8-4 disassembly and first 'coat'.

The front screw securing the frame to the boiler was 'butchered' by a previous owner so I used a Dremel metal cut off disk to make a 'slot' in the screw.

Some 'plumbing' had to be re-soldered.

First, to the boiler...

and then the two pipes.

Wheels and engine frame already factory painted.

Speaker holes in the tender's bottom plate.

Already a large 'hole' at the front of the tender for decoder wires but drilled out some holes at the back of the 'coal bunker' to route decoder wires.

Tender light drilled for an LED.

From my first experience with the C&NW 4-6-4 small marker lights, I did the same 'procedure' with these small marker lights, IE.

1) used a very small drill bit to drill through the marker lights and into the side of the boiler.

2) The needed #57 drill bit used to enlarge the marker light hole via a pin vise so not to 'rip off' the marker light with too much 'power'.

The smaller drill bit on the left and the #57 on the right.

The very small drill bit doesn't 'dig into' the marker light and 'twist it' off but the #57 can so a '2  step' procedure.

I used the 'wire strippers' to hold the marker light to insure it doesn't 'twist' while, manually, enlarging the hole.

'Ta da'!

Nice; wasn't expecting NPP to include a 'back head'.

Washed and ready to get the first 'coat'.

Scalecoat high gloss black.

2 hours at 200 degrees.

What I'm hoping it will, eventually, 'look like'!

I use a paper towel to, immediately, wipe off the rim of the jar to prevent 'dry paint' falling into the bottle plus easier to get the jar lid 'off', the 'next time'.  The paint will dry very fast around the rim and wiping it quickly is important.

===================

More trees.

Removed the 'golden rod' that was behind the trestle but before the upper track and replaced them with conifers with the 10 boxes of trees that just arrived.

=================

Harrison, Ohio train show.

Figured it wouldn't be very 'large' but only 40 miles away.

Mostly all 3-rail.

Was a few tables with HO stuff.

A foam 'layout'.

Glad I 'went' as I purchased more books.

The dealer had 3 for a buck for these paper backs.  There were 53 of them so I bought all of them for 15 bucks.

These are really nice paper backs.  All 'steam' .

These are 'quarterlies'.  I've never seen them before but each one covers 2-4 subjects.

The ones I have are from around the 80's to early 2000's.

They weren't cheap as the back cover said $47 per year.

Very high quality pictures and lots' of them!

4 more for 5 bucks each.  I may already have the C&O book but, for 5 bucks, I bought it anyway; better 2 than none!

GTW U-4B 4-8-4 streamlined imported by Nickel Plate Products in 1977 (masking and painting).

2 coats of black have, already, been applied.

Next was the grey boiler.

The UP harbor mist grey (light) seemed to match the GTW grey.

I left the masking tape on the 'walk boards' since they are suppose to be black.

Usual water with tooth pick and Q-tip to remove any light 'over spray' before 'cooking' in the oven for 2 hours at 200 degrees.

Masking for the green.

This area was 'fun'!

I couldn't get any Scalecoat GTW green but Tru-color had it.

I believe this is a 'water base'.

I've never put a 'water base' color on an engine.

I've read where one can 'water' over 'enamel' but not vise versa.

Interesting in that the 'label' says to clean up with acetone.

The CN green matches the color of this engine that I've seen painted.

I was thinking of adding white to Pullman green in my Scalecoat colors but I thought the 'water base' would work, plus it's an accurate color.  I didn't like using the 'water base' as I had to have the 'air brush' fully opened and, by the time I was starting to clean the 'air brush' the paint was drying already and I needed 'back pressure' to unclog it.  Solvent base paints are so much easier to 'clean up'.  I didn't want to add water to thin it, or alcohol, for fear the paint may be a dull color as I read 'online'.

I tested the 'water base' on the bottom of the tender as it would be easy to strip and 're-do'.

I put the part in the toaster over for 45 minutes and all looks 'good'.

I then painted the tender and boiler.

I re-added this picture since the next one shows a 'blank' although one can see it by 'clicking' on it.

ditto.

One more:

That is a sharp paint job.

I really enjoy following your work.

That's looking great!

Thanks, Mark.

================

C&NW E-4 4-6-4 painting and striping, GTW U-4B 4-8-4 striping and clear coat, Ross Club meeting.

=============

It took me 8 hours for the following.

C&NW E-4 4-6-4.

Masking for silver 'smoke deflectors'.

4th and final paint color added.

Decals strips used for white and gold.

============

GTW U-4B 4-8-4.

Yellow strips added and clear coated.

Blurry but gauges and handles painted.

Lots of 'time' and 'patience' doing this!

=========

Ross meeting. 5 attended.

videos:

GN W-1 electric freight drag at Marias pass.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vSk7Ml7_xEo

UP 2-tone 4-6-6-4 challenger freight at Havre:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sTYegr6BUt8

UP 2-tone 4-6-6-4 challenger by BLI.

Bob.

Hillyard.

St. Paul.

Glacier meet.

Seattle's freight yard.

Thanks, Mark.

===========

C&NW E-4 4-6-4, GTW U-4B 4-8-4 and Ross club meeting.

==========

8 hours on striping, today!

C&NW E-4 4-6-4.

Masking for the 4th color of paint.

White and gold decals.

=========================

GTW U-4B 4-8-4.

Clear coated after striping applied.

Blurry but gauges and handles painted.

Another 'fun' striping!

==============

Ross club meeting. 5 attended.

Videos:

GN W-1 electric at Marias pass.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vSk7Ml7_xEo

UP 2-tone challenger at Havre:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sTYegr6BUt8

UP 2-tone 4-6-6-4 challenger by BLI.

Bob

Hillyard.

St. Paul.

Meet at Glacier.

Seattle's freight yard.

Gerry.

C&NW E-4 4-6-4, GTW U-4B 4-8-4.

Final striping and clear coat.

Very difficult to match a 'factory paint' job that has multiple 'striping' but I'm happy with the result.

Just 'kick me' should I ever mention that I want to paint a multi-striped steam engine!

===================

C&NW E-4 4-6-4.

=====================

GTW U-4B 4-8-4.

Had to mask off the running board for the 'number plate'.

Since the green paint was a 'water base' I used the blue (low stick) tape for fear of pulling off the green paint.

Oxide red seem to match the decal back ground.

After the striping on the engine and tender and white paint for the hand rails, the parts were clear coated.

Had to cut each striping for each side of the rectangle.

That’s a lot of work!  All the more reason to compliment a job well done!

Thanks, Mark.

==================

C&NW E-4 4-6-4, GTW U-4B 4-8-4 final striping and assembly.

=================

C&NW E-4 4-6-4.

The striping on the tender needs to align with the engine so all wheels need to be assembled to align the tender and engine striping.

Scraped off the paint on the frame where there is contact with the brass journals.

At each stage, insure no binding.

Side rods.

Valve gear.

I was surprised that the two bottom strips were aligned so easy to do the remaining 3 strips.

Had to use 4 sets of decal sheets on this engine.

Clear coated and 2 hours at 200 degrees.

Used clear silicone caulk to secure new can motor to frame.

============================

GTW U-4B 4-8-4.

The drivers and frame were already black so only had to attached the piston and valve assembly to the frame.

Check for binds.

Motor installed and paint pen used to 'white wall' the drivers...

and all wheels.

Bought some more decoders during 'black Friday' sales.

Got about 20 of these now for 'future' engines.

New version.  My old ones are 4.0.

The two decoders I sent in for repair are done.

One was 'out of warranty' but only 41 bucks for the repair (better than paying $125 for a new one!)

Erie 0-8-8-0 camel back disassembly and painting, GTW 4-8-4 and Signaling fix (hopefully!).

Got a few things done today while watching college football!

==================

Erie L-1 0-8-8-0 camelback.

Imported by Custom Brass in 1984.

The only articulated camelback engine ever made for any railroad plus Custom Brass only made 120 of them so not likely to see any on a model railroad!

This engine is all black so I thought I'd try something 'easy'!

DC test to make sure all's 'good'.

Tender disassembly.

Rectangular hole cut for decoder connectors.

Tender is pretty small so holes drilled in case the speaker has to be placed in the 'coal' area.

Small hole drilled in the bottom of the large (non incandescent type) light for the tender.

The speaker holes were blocked by the tender 'mounting' plate.

Marked them and...

drilled new holes.

much better!

Engine disassembly.

After front engine screw removed the two screws on 'each side' were removed....

plus the 2 screws at the rear of the engine.

Engine light drilled plus another hole put into the boiler front just under the head light.

Big ol' stubby motor.

Everything disassembled.

Parts that won't be 'cooked' into boxes (front and rear drivers).

Parts not to be painted into the engine box 'top'.

The 'rest' onto the toaster 'pan'.

After cleaned and all electrical parts masked, ready for painting.

the 'usual' black.

1st coat and 2 hours at 200 degrees.

Air brush put on 'light' when 'shooting' the wheels.

==============

GTW 4-8-4 assembly.

The tender trucks had a lot of 'slop' on one side due to that side's screws having a 'shoulder' so some very thin plastic used to 'bypass' the 'shoulder'.

Tested for no 'shorts' and 'free rolling'.

================

For a second or 2, the signaling system has been showing trains in 2-3 blocks when there are none in those blocks.

Joe and I suspect a bad 'CB' so I replaced it.

Ran a test with one train to insure the new CB detects the train properly; had to adjust 2 of the 'pots' to detect the caboose.

Will get a 'full size' test when multiple operators are 'running trains'!

That is an interesting camelback.  Nice model. Hopefully the replacement circuit breaker board takes care of the problem

I would love to see a video of the locomotive completed and running again.

Presently, I'm painting several engines and assemble them to the 'point' where decoders/LED's will be installed, again, doing this as a 'group'.  Then new pictures and videos will be taken.

My video files which, also, includes my RC airplanes:

https://www.youtube.com/@sampa...rt=dd&shelf_id=0

Erie L-1 0-8-8-0 camelback (cont).

2nd coat of black paint, decaling and clear coating.

Got a few things done while watching football.

Clear coat picture.

Parts in their respective boxes for, later, assembly.

Purchased a sheet of 1"&2" wide white striping and 4 old Weston fireman/engineer figures.

Erie L-1 0-8-8-0 camelback assembly and LED installs.

============

Erie L-1 0-8-8-0 assembly.

Front and rear engines assembled.

Tweezers used to insert driver springs.

All tested for no binds, etc.

===========

LED installs.

I use 0402 LED's which are about one grain of sand width by 2 grains of sand long (at most!).

A slow process as one has to wait for the canopy glue to dry securing the LED's before installing additional LED's; doing multiple engines at once 'speeds up the process'.

Headlight: engine and tender on the Erie.

Running board lights and cab light.

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GTW U-4B 4-8-4:

LED installs.

Headlight: 2 in the engine and 2 in the tender.

Tender marker lights.

Engine marker lights.

Running board lights.

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UP 4-6-6-4 challenger:

Running board lights and cab light.

Rotary snow plow video:

https://vimeo.com/469905020

Holiday Junction at Cincinnati Union Terminal video:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dxmwhgP9l3E

Springfield, Ohio train show, NMRA MCR DIV 7 meeting layout visits and 'booty'.

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A great day: 9 hours of train 'stuff'

Springfield, Ohio train show. A 'one day' show.

Miles: 60

2 large halls plus another large hall connecting the 2 buildings: at the 'fair grounds'.

1st building.

Some really old stuff.

Arnald had a hobby shop in Middletown, Ohio back last century.

For those who collects old stuff.

My first HO train was a Gilbert Hudson (with smoke) freight set in a beveled box.

Something different.

Dual gauge on this layout.

Pre war: don't know if it was restored but 'looks' mint.

Center hall between the 2 buidings.

I believe this was N narrow gauge.

2nd building.

A few S gauge scale stuff.

Americana:

Xenia, Ohio.

Huge ranch house.

Believe this is a twin beachcraft D-18 on the 'front lawn'!

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NMRA MCR DIV 7 meeting.

Went to the meeting after the train show.

Awards.

Contest tables.

One small 'layout'!

Free food for December's meeting

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Roy Allen's D&RGW G scale layout.

videos:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SRMYX_f5ni8

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oixex4s_wy4

Functioning 'lift pins'.

My HO steam has 1 spring per axle, this has 3!

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Bob Shaw's C&O layout.

A 'timer' routes the layout to 'night'.

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Booty.

Picked up a Con-Cor PRR aero train plus a 3 car 'add on'

He had a very reasonable price for the set.  I, probably, could have gotten it a little cheaper but I gave him what he asked as I didn't want to 'insult him' since he, initially, offered a very good price for them.

Brand new, never been used.

Made in 2008.  The 2 sets weren't cheap back in 2008 as they listed for $650 for the 2 sets.

Had all the 'paper work'.

3 car 'add on'.

Surprised how heavy the engine weighed!

Male end.

Female end.

Very cool: magnets pulled the 2 cars together.  Nice 'closed' fit between cars.

Will need to get a decoder for them.

I have the Con-Cor Burlington set where I installed a TCS WOW diesel decoder.

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Did pick up 2 freight cars.

The box is an all metal from the 50's and the covered hopper is a nice all wood kit.

Wow! There are some really nice shows out your way!  The Aero Train really looks great!

Mark,

Div 7 has around 65 registered layouts.

Cleveland and Cincinnati are 'big' modeling cities.

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Erie L-1 0-8-8-0 decoder install and Ross club's modular layout at Liberty Way shopping mall.

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Erie L-1 0-8-8-0.

LED's have, already, been glued 'in place'.

I make my own connectors.

There are 50 pins on a connector and I cut them into either 8 pin or 4 pin connectors.

These are very small connectors as 8 pins are less than a 1/2" wide.

Each 'cut' results in one pin lost so I can get four 8-pin and three 4-pin connectors for one 'strip'.

Marked white to insure proper 'connection orientation'.

For 'some reason' I keep the 'cut' pins!

One type of speaker that I use.

This tender is small so it gets a 'sugar cube' speaker.

My 'wiring order' for tender to engine and engine frame to engine boiler.

Every engine is wired the 'same way'.

I need an 8 pin connector as I, usually, have LED's to the headlight (engine/tender), marker lights (engine/tender), cab light, running board lights and fire box glow.

A 'fine point' is used to solder all connections.

First 4 soldered.

Then heat shrink tubing.

As with an extension cord, the 'tender' side connector is the female side.

One doesn't want to put the tender on the track and have 'extensions' touching the track, etc. if the tender is not connected to the engine.

Then the last 4 wires are soldered and then each set of 4 wires are 'heat shrink' to resemble air/water hoses.

TCS 1517 WOW 101 steam decoder.

Each end of wires has it's own connector so the decoder can, easily, be added/removed.

Wire harness can slide into the tender so it's not 'seen'.

Other side of the connector is next.

About 5" are cut for the 'engine' side connector.

Male side done with heat shrink added.

The 8 wires connected to the engine with 4 going to the boiler for headlight, marker lights, cab light.

The fire box glow LED bypasses the decoder so I can tell when the engine has power because the fire box will glow before 'inputting' the engine address on the throttle.

Boiler 4-pin connector.

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Ross club's modular layout setup at Liberty Way mall until Dec 23.

A large L shaped layout.

'Railfans' camera's 'flashing' when the train passes.

Erie L-1 0-8-8-0 'camel back' final assembly and PRR Aero train yard test.

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Erie L-1 0-8-8-0.

Erie was the only railroad ever to order an articulated 'camel back' and they only had 3 of them.

Video:

Yard test:

With all the LED wires I wasn't able to put any weight in the boiler thus, it won't be pulling very many cars but it will look 'cool'

Normally, the front of the boiler is removable but it appeared to be 'soldered' in place so any insertion of 'lead' weight would be difficult.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aRker9amJDM

Back set of drivers with motor and tender put on programming track.

Besides inputting the engine address, all LED's were set to 'constant dim'.

Data saved.

All LED wires taped to the top of the boiler and routed to the back of the engine.

Used 'heat shrink' tubing to protect the wires.

Had to drill two holes in each of the 'supporting' brass walls to route the LED wires to insure they didn't get 'tangled' with the universal drive mechanism.

All LED wires 'heat shrunk'.

Boiler side of the 4-pin connector.  Everything is made 'modular' for 'ease' of PM.

Boiler and engine wire harnesses.

Assembly complete.

Running board lights.

A cab light was added but not easy to see.

ARGG:  Before painting the engine, I drilled out a hole for an LED for the fireman and forgot to 'add it'!

As mentioned, previously, the fire box LED bypasses the decoder so I can tell when the track has 'power'; ie. when an engine is in a 'round house' track.

Connector slid into the tender with wires protruding as 'air/water' lines.

I painted one of these engines for Phil Barnett back in the 80's who passed away a few years ago.

He modeled the Erie.

Bill Warrick had a very nice large UP layout in Monroe, Ohio.  He passed away a good 10-15 years ago.

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PRR Aero train by Con-Cor from 2008.

video:

Yard test:

Very quite and smooth running train.

A DC test run.  A TCS diesel decoder has been ordered for this train.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=D-TlmrYBu4g

Engine has multiple LED head lights plus a cab light.

Interior with lights.

From what I read, the passenger cars were converted from a 'bus' frame and did not ride 'well'.

Bill Warrick had a very nice large UP layout in Monroe, Ohio.  He passed away a good 10-15 years ago.

Dad & I were talking about Bill & his layout earlier this year. He passed away 12 years ago last week

C&NW E-4 4-6-4 decoder install.

Video:

Yard test:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=G6vVeUnej08

A few weeks ago I finished up the striping on the tender.

TCS 1517 decoder installed.

Back when I had the PFM sound system I used their speakers.  I still have a dozen, or so, and I like them as they produce the low frequency sounds very well.

Normally, I solder the 'ground' wire to the inside of the tender but there were no brass wires inside the tender and I didn't want to damage the paint by trying to solder a wire to the tender's 'shell', thus, the 'ground' wire was soldered to the 'running gear'.

The PFM speakers came in a clear plastic case (edge and facing).

Tender completed.

All the LED's were, previously, glued to their respective places.

All LED's are checked to insure they are not 'grounded' to the boiler frame which will cause them to, immediately, 'blow out'.

This signal tester provides a low, safe voltage as I run an extra wire to the 'boiler' to insure the LED's do not 'get brighter' or 'dimmer' indicating an LED is 'grounded'.

Double headlights.

Cab light is 'linked' with the headlight.

I always used green for the engine marker lights to give it some 'bling'.

Never have too much 'heat shrink' tubing!

Routed the LED wires through 'heat shrink' tubing to protect them.  They are not 'heated'.

Several pieces of short 'heat shrink' tubing to route to the top of the boiler for the 'running board' lights.

All the wires come to just 4 wires.  Blue (hot), Green (marker lights), white (headlight and cab) and pink (running board lights).

4-pin connector.

Engine came with one weight.

There isn't a lot of room for extra weight so this engine will not be pulling a lot of cars, especially since it's only a 4-6-4.

Ready to be assembled.

Programming track. 

You know the decoder is being updated when it moves momentarily, several times.

Upload complete.

Kapton tape to insure the motor doesn't ground to the boiler.

Nice looking engine.

Running board lights.

I installed a 'back head' and 'deck plate'.

Two 'down' and about 8-10 more engine that have been painted but need decoder's installed.

Since the 'bulk' of my engines have TCS decoders, a reference is at the bottom of each of my throttles.

With the TCS decoder, one doesn't have to reduce the speed to stop: only apply the brakes (F7) and then release the brakes (F6) will allow the engine to resume the 'original' speed. 

All lights are independently controlled via function keys so they can be turned 'on' or 'off'.

GTW U-4B 4-8-4 decoder install and new delivery.

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GTW U-4B 4-8-4.

Installing a TCS 1517 decoder with LED's.

LED wires are extremely small and my 'wire strippers' are useless so I have found that putting an X-acto blade on the wire and then pulling the wire (and not the blade) will strip off the insulation.

Tender done.

Had to route the connector and wires through the 'coal bunker' so the connector can be hidden inside the 'coal bunker' since that area was, already, open.

Glad I drilled some holes in the 'coal bunker' before painting as I had to route the wires through the holes.

Engine boiler had a hole under the deck so I routed the wires through that hole.

This engine is unusual in that the motor is in the middle of the boiler instead of at the rear plus there were multiple pieces of brass spanning the bottom of the boiler.

I had to reverse the 4-pin connector that, usually, goes from the frame to the boiler to a 3-pin connector from the boiler to the frame.

There's, also, an 'ash pan' that is held in place by the frame and, also, forces all wires to go to the center of the boiler.

Wiring complete.

Had to caulk the 'fire box' glow LED to the boiler instead of the usual place on the frame.

The 'fire box' LED is always a 3 MM LED versus the 0402 LED for the rest of the lighting.

I screwed 'something up' as I'm getting a 'short' on the 'programming track'.

Will have to diagnose later as I have other things to do.

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New delivery.

UP 4-8-8-4 big boy made by Tenshodo in 1961.

Tenshodo made some others in 1958 but, what I've read, they only had the back set of drivers 'powered'.

This engine has both set of drivers 'powered' so I'm guessing it was made in 1961.

This is one of the first 'hand crafted' big boy's made.

videos:

Testing the back set of drivers with new tubing added but keeping the original open frame motor.

Surprised at how quiet the mechanism is, as I was expecting a lot of 'grinding' considering this engine is 61 years old!

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hV0BaM5C3cE

Both sets of drivers 'yard test':

Again, very quiet.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iEewdj0p5W0

The engine and tender came in 2 boxes.

The 'staples on the end of the box indicates it is an early model.

No foam, just cardboard for 'protection'.

The engine box had a wood base platform.

Items that indicate a very early run.

A blue 'Tenshodo' label on the driver retaining plate.

From the appearance of the drivers, I don't think this engine had any run time, except maybe a 'short' yard test run.

The inside of the cab has this label.

The tender has this label.

Disassembly to replace the rubber tubing.

The back engine has number '120' stamped on it....

as well as the back of the cab under the deck (if you can read it with the blurry picture!).

Tubing replaced.

I put some 'heat shrink' tubing over the 'rubber' tubing to strengthen it.

There was about a 1/4" gap between the front and back gear boxes so I put a piece of 'metal' tubing in the 'rubber' tubing.

I have other things to get done and will get back to pictures of the engine assembled and comparing it to my 1981 Tenshodo big boy.