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I am just entering the world of command control.  Thirty+ years ago, when my children were young, I bought them each a nice Fundimensions Southern Pacific engine.  We set up a 12' x 9' layout in our finished basement with three loops and ran a GS4, an FM, a F3 and a GP7, all conventional of course.  We dismantled the layout around 2002. My daughter has three sons and I bought then each two engines around 2005, all TMCC. We have 3 PRR K4s, 2 GG1s and 2 GP7s. We had intentions of a building a permanent layout, but there never seemed to be enough time.   So, my only experience with TMCC has been two small loops around the Christmas tree.   When our finished basement flooded this past July, we decided, after it was restored to build an 8' by 20' permanent layout.

My first action was to design a track plan with SCARM.  After many revisions, we settled on the attached plan and I bought the track (all fastrack).  In my spare time this past fall, I was busy with the basement restoration, so not much else happened.  Then, over Christmas my son and I built the benchwork.  I realized that I had to upgrade my power and have been researching as much as I could.  I did purchase 2 180 watt Powerhouses at a good price along with 2 Legacy Powermasters. I am struggling a bit with the wiring and power plan.  Here are my main questions:

1.  I plan to run 16 gauge BUS wiring with 18 gauge feeders to spread power across the layout.  Should I create several power blocks and run a BUS for each?  I think I can isolate blocks at the switches so I can use the 1 3/8 inch extenders to cut power.  I think I need blocks for the passings and for the sidings, correct? I'm not sure we'll run anything but TMCC,  but it would be nice to run the older conventional engines as well if it doesn't complicate things too much.  We may never expand into Legacy, but one never knows (my youngest son has two very young children).

2. One of the 180 bricks should run the outer loop and siding and one the inner.  What about the connecting tracks and yard area?

3.  The more modern power I bought should protect the engine electronics.  Should I add TVS protection as well?  How do I phase the bricks?

4.  Lights and accessories will be run by my 1946 ZW.  I also have a C-80,  should I use it somehow.

5.  How do I turn power off and on to each block?  My plan is to use toggle switches.  Is there a better way?

6.  All of the switches are the newest R/C.  Should I wire them anyway?

7.  I didn't buy any fastrack lockon pieces.  I think I can run the feeders under the benchwork to connect power, correct?

8.  The plywood table is covered by 1 inch high density foam and then by 3/4 inch white beaded foam for sound deadening.  I plan to screw the fastrack only into the foam.  Do I have to screw down each piece?  Is there a better alternative?

Basically I'm asking for advice on laying and  powering the track for reliable operation.  Thanks in advance for any advice. 

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I'm not up on all the Lionel command options, I have Legacy for Legacy engines, but that's it. I use DCS for everything else. But I'll try to throw out a few suggestions and a few things I have done on my layout to get things going here.

1. I would use #14 for the bus wire and #16 for the feeders. ISome use #18 for feeders I think, but I did not. I wired my layout for DCS (star wired, no bus wiring) and their recommendation was one feeder (Power and common) connected to the center of a block. No blocks longer than about 10 or so track joints, my center rails are isolated every 10 or less track joints forming the blocks. TMCC signals are different than DCS and I believe bus wiring is just fine for TMCC/Legacy. The block sizes for DCS would probably work just as well with TMCC.

2. I also use PH-180s, 1 per loop. I power any sidings yard tracks, spurs, etc. from whichever loop they connect to. All sidings etc. have switched power to the center rails so I can turn them off.

3. The PH-180s have excellent breakers, but TVS are also helpful in preventing voltage spikes. I would probably add a TVS at each connection feeding the bus wires out to the feeders. 

4. If your ZW won't handle the load you could power some of the lights and/or or accessories with the CW-80. Or use it for a couple of additional fixed voltages where needed. 

5. I use on-off (SPST) toggle switches rated for 10 amps, the output of my PH-180s. I only have switches on sidings, spurs and yard tracks. None of the main blocks are switched. 

6. I find that I often walk around the layout while running trains so I have remote switch controls at each switch location. You might find this a handy feature to have.

7. You can connect track feeders directly to Fastrack with small crimp on quick connects. I believe they are .110" in size, but hopefully someone will verify that as I don't use Fastrack. I am not sure on maximum wire size these accept either, this could limit track feeders to #18 wire? Probably fine, I think many folks here have used these.

8. I would say you don't need to screw down every piece, but there's nothing wrong with doing that either. I have most of my track screwed in place, but I use Atlas track, a bit different than Fastrack. I think Fastrack might join together a bit tighter and stay together better than Atlas so it might need less fastening down.

Everyone is different and we all do things differently. Also, many ways of doing all this that all works well. I'm sure you will get many other suggestions.  

Last edited by rtr12

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