Help with DCS 50-1033 & Hustle Muscle #402

I think the top suspect is the fact that it's a used locomotive, and the DCS Remote Commander REQUIRES the locomotive to be in the factory reset condition.  You can only do that with the full DCS system or DCS Commander (the wired version).

Find someone with a full DCS system and have them do a factory reset, I think you should be all set at that point.

The DCS remote Commander works fine in passive mode, so you don't need to run the power through it.  Just connect the transformer directly to the track, connect the output terminals of the DCS Remote Commander to the track, red to center, black to outside rails.

However, I'm guessing you may need the factory reset before you can actually run this.

Is this a Locosound or PS2 version of the engine, i.e., 30-2359-0 or 30-2359-1?

If it's the -0, it won't work at all with the 50-1033 DCS Remote Commander (DCSRC).

If its the -1, it possibly just needs a new battery or its existing one needs an overnight charge. Once that's done, it should work fine from transformer control. If it does but still doesn't work from the DCSRC, it needs a Factory Reset using either a DCS Remote and TIU, or a DCS Commander.

Thanks Gun & Barry,

I believe its a 20-2913-2 but not sure being its not listed on MTH only the cab #400 is listed. http://www.mthtrains.com/content/20-2913-2 I'm not sure but I believe its a PS2.

I'll try charging the battery for 15 mins like the manual advises and see what happens. I'm new at this so I dont know anybody with a command yet. I'd like to run it with the MRC but I dont know.

          Thanks again for the help and I'm off to try it again.

          Mike

The only model that I'm aware of the included cab #402 is 20-2104.  This is a PS1 loco.  FWIW.

I think Charly might be right. MTH does list that model and it looks the same. I noticed they also listed ditch lights (which mine has) but the sounds have me baffled. I'll take some photos of the #402 and post them here. I'll also try to uplaod a video of the start up and what its doing (beeps and clanking) I'm not sure but I think the sounds are from the first Proto they came out with. I tried the smoke unit and it seems to be working fine. Also the start up sounds seem to be working. I gues the only way I'll no for sure is to hook it up to a command. Still not sure why it wont move at all. I checked the battery and it seems fine. Sounds a crisp and clear. I believe the clanks and beeps are a codes for trouble shooting.

Only PS1 engines make clonks and clanks. It will not work with your DCS Remote Commander. PS1 engines are conventional-control engines.

Also, you should change out the rechargeable battery for a fresh, fully charged one or risk damaging the engine.

Mike,

Forget trying to use the CW-80 as it's not a recommended transformer to run PS1 engines. The MRC should be OK as I believe it's a Pure Wave Form transformer.

You can check the battery by powering up the engine and then cutting off the power. The engine sounds should continue for at least 7-10 seconds. If not the battery is low or dead, then you shouldn't continue trying to run the engine until the battery is replaced or charged up.

If good, then power up the engine with the transformer throttle. You should get 2 dings and start up sounds. Then move the throttle to the off position for a second or two and the back up to get it to move. Don't use the direction button as if the voltage is too high the PS1 system is built so the engine won't move to avoid taking off too fast and out off control. Also using the direction button, most not familiar with PS1 cycle it too fast for the engine to respond anyway.

Thanks Joe. I tested the battery and its fine. Sounds are crisp and last after power down. I contacted the seller and he said it was running fine right before shipping using a conventional transformer. He's also trying NOT to refund my money. We'll see about that. I'll try it again tonight at a slower throttle up pace and try what you suggested.

I'll use the MRC and see what happens. Seems like its just not engauging into gear in forward or reverse. And also none of the buttons are working on the transformer. I know its not my layout being that I run a few other loco's on it. I am getting good start up sounds and dings just no movement. 

If this is a PS1 locomotive, when you initially apply power, do not go past 10 volts.  Apply 6-8 volts and wait 6-8 seconds for the boards to do a self diagnostic, then run the train normally.  If you do go past 10 volts on start-up, the engine will not come out of neutral.  Shut it down and try again.  Additionally, if you mare not familiar with PS1, the engines horn/whistle will not sound in neutral, only when moving.  This can be changed through reprogramming as well as other operating features.

If you do go past 10 volts on start-up, the engine will not come out of neutral.

That's only true if you use the direction button instead of the throttle.

No luck with the train tonight. I'm going to take a video of it tomorrow after work and post it here. Seems like the e-unit is not working. Or maybe I'm just missing that 10-12 volt sweetspot to get it out of neutral. There are 2 switches underside, one is for the working smoke unit (under the wheel truck center) and one near the edge. Not sure what the one near the edge is for maybe ditch lights (not working).More later.

The procedure for starting a PS-1 engine is this. Turn the voltage up to over 12 volts for 10 seconds. Then throttle down to about 6 to 9 volts and press the direction button.

The engine starts in reset mode. No horn or bell functions. Once out of reset the engine operates F_N_R.

Mike,

Here's the operator's manual for a SD70MAC with the same PS1 system:

http://www.mthtrains.com/sites...ction/20dl11566i.pdf

Thanks to everyone on here that has helped me out. You all are great. The owner has contacted me back and is saying the same thing about the start up and getting the loco out of neutral. I'm using my MRC 270 watt transformer and not sure how to tell where the volts are to gauge the throttle at 1o volts. I guess I'll have to try a few different setting to see if I can find that sweet spot. After getting help here and from the seller I'm going to keep the loco and work on understanding it better. I really love the Proto sounds and will slowly move into the DCS systems when I understand all this better. I'm going to get at it again tonight and video tape myself with the controller and post it here if possible. More to come.

          Thanks to all !!!!!

          Mike

Seems this engine is from around 1995 proto-1 designed to run on pure sine wave transformers. This one may even run without a battery but doesn't like chopped waved transformers. If you have a old lionel transformer try it instead of the MRC-270. I'm not sure if it's a pure sine wave or not,  Some  of the early MRCs were electronic.  Not all proto-1 engines are the same, there was   change around 97  allowing  modern transformers to do their job.

Well I did manage to get the train to run twice tonight with the CW-80 only. No luck at all with the MRC. Not sure how I got it there but it did run and the horn, whistle and lights all worked fine. The problem is I had to try it like 30 time to get it to work 2 times. And the sound as it shouts down makes me think the battery is shot. Wasnt making that sound last night. Popping noise. The only old lionel transformer I havent tried is a 4150 that has no bell or whistle buttons. I've heard you can use a 9 volt battery to test the unit but not sure. I'm going to try an attach a video and a pic here.

Thanks again and I'll be looking for a new transformer to try it out in the next few days.

Mystery solved. I hooked the train up to a old Lionel 4150 and it works fine. Havent checked the features yet as the 4150 has no buttons, but it runs fine in both directions, with all the lights & smoke unit working.

          Thanks again for all the help.

          Mike

Well even that transformer besides the other two is not on the transformer compatibility chart. But at least it must put out Pure Sine Form for it to operate your engine correctly forward and reverse.  Glad to hear you got it going.

Thanks Joe. I know it wasnt on the list but its the only other one I had laying around. At least now I know the train works ok. Runs real smooth with that 4150, but it has no buttons to activate the features. I just purchased a Tech 11 on Ebay thats on the list.

Guess after I get my setup done I'll run that train on its own track and run the rest with my MRC. Cant afford a better transformer just yet but will look into a z4000 later down the road. Thanks again to all.

          Mike