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Does anyone have experience removing the drive wheels from a modern Lionel conventional classic steam loco? The wheels are pressed onto the axles using some method that substantially differs from earlier LTI or postwar engines. I have chipped wheels, and broken wheel puller jaws, and still cannot pry the wheels loose.

Unfortunately, like so many conventional classic loco's, the motors were fabricated with poor tolerances, run rough, or bind up entirely. So, removal of  the wheels is necessary to access the armature, and rework the armature and field laminations. This is in addition to new armature bearings to replace the original oversize sloppy ones. Any suggestions?

Last edited by GregR
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Ted S posted:

@GregR sorry to resurrect an old thread.  Came across this and was wondering if you were able to get the wheels off, and what you found.  I'm also curious to hear about other people's experiences with the Conventional Classics 646, 2056, and the AC-motored Girls Train loco.

Yes, I did get the wheels off. I used Frank Timko’s wheel puller. I got the wheels of both a conventional classics 646 and girls 2037. Unfortunately, in both cases I ended up chipping a wheel flange on account of the extreme force required to remove the wheels on these locos. It’s nothing like postwar, or MPC. Those Chinese wheels are on so tight it is unbelievable. I repaired the chips with epoxy that happened to be the same color as the wheels. The good news is that once the wheels were removed, I was able to remove the armatures. I shaved a few mils off both the field and armature laminations because they were too close, making the motors grind. I also replaced the armature bearings.  On the 2037 I put in true roller bearings of the type used in RC cars, with a tight fit allowing zero play in the armature.  That engine now runs as smooth as a can motor. The difference is unbelievable. On the 646, I replaced the armature bearings with brass tubes that I drilled out to the exact required diameter. I made the tubes about 1/8 to 3/16 longer than the armature shaft end, leaving enough space to cram in an oil wick which I saturated. Again, this also achieves excellent results.  I have been running both of these engines for a few years now without any adverse wear conditions. 

Wow, sounds great!  I wonder if it would have been any easier with a puller like this (don't have one, too costly for my occasional use)

http://www.portlines.com/tools2.htm

With the armature poles striking the field, it's amazing that the motor ran at all!  And I think I remember some people saying that the Conventional Classics Hudsons were decent runners.  Did you happen to take any pics of your handiwork?  Anyhow, thanks for the update!

Last edited by Ted S

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