How long does it take scenery to dry

I have never used that particular Woodland Scenics product, but have always used ordinary white glue for my scenery.

I apply a fairly thick coating  of glue (brushed on); apply a layer of ground cover and let it dry. I then go over everything with an additional layer of ground cover sprinkled on that I then soak with a sprayed-on, thin mix of white glue and water, with a couple of drops of liquid dishwashing detergent mixed in. I almost always follow-up with a brief vacuuming after everything is secured and dry.

Matte Medium, available in any art supply dept., also works well in lieu of white glue.

I use the same white glue/water/detergent drops technique for ballasting (applied with an eye dropper), making sure the ballast I want to hold securely in place is thoroughly saturated with the liquid to the point where it runs out the bottom of the ballast and onto the surrounding scenery. When dry, you can never tell the pooled "mess" was there.

Try some cheap hairspray to help hold the grass in place.

Two other questions I had that I forgot to add to my post were does it ever hurt to add more of the glue that I’m using. I plan to add some more tomorrow. Also do you guys recommend adding a dullcoat to the scenery to make it stick better? Once glue dries and I stop adding more?  I attached picture of my dullcoat below

I use Woodland Scenics products exclusively but have not used the Spray Tac. Just the scenic cement and scenic glue.

For the project you are doing the way I would go about it is to spray the surface you are looking to add grass to with a healthy amount of the glue and then sprinkle the grass on as desired and then spray that with glue again in order to keep it from moving. It is completely normal to have some grass not stick even with the process I just described. Woodlands Scenics glue all dries clear and anytime I thought I sprayed too much it still comes out clear. After the glue has dried, I would lightly tap it the object on its side the get any excess grass that has not been glued.

To summarize. I spray glue on the object, sprinkle grass, then spray glue on top of the grass again.

Hope that helps.

-Matt

Environment matters here as cooler or more humid locations like in a garage or basement will cause it to dry more slowly. You may need to wait a day or two in that case. Also, you may have to reapply some glue and grass to any thin spots. I'd lightly tap it on a surface to remove anything that isn't stuck on and then touch it up as needed.

I might suggest that it takes longer to dry what you glue to do thing like foam.  It does not absorb any liquid.  I find material like homasote or ceiling tile or wood wick some water out of the glue slowing the drying.  Foam for me takes overnight at least to dry.

There are exceptions, but generally you must leave it alone overnight.

All good suggestions, but a couple of tweaks:

- First, a liberal coat of white glue or similar adhesive will generally do well on most surfaces, but some plastics and other impervious surfaces can lead to the peeling you describe. I always put down a base coat of paint (trying to emulate the dirt layer under the grass) first, plus a primer coat if needed on the surface.

- Once you get the grass coverage you desire and have let it dry (at *minimum* overnight!), you can overcoat with sprays of watered glue or unscented hairspray to fix the grass in place (again, let it dry overnight), and then you can vacuum lightly to remove any loose material. WS has a small battery-powered handheld unit for this, but I get better results with a layer of pantyhose over the nozzle of a standard vacuum (with any vacuum bypass fully open to reduce the force) to catch and potentially reuse any such material.

- All of the above is assuming you are just using standard ground foam or similar materials. Static grass or clump foliage require special handling . . . but that would be a separate thread!

Allan's method of liberally soaking the ballast and letting it run into the surrounding ground cover works like a charm.  I learned about this years ago and applied it to the club modules that I built.  After many years and many set ups and teardowns, the ground cover has never moved.  And by soaking, I mean almost running off of the table.  I put down plastic on the floor just in case the solution ran over the sides.  I let it dry for three or four days.  It looks strange when you first soak it, but as Allan said, it looks great when it dries.       

Thank You everyone for the advice. I ended up leaving it overnight in basement and it made a huge difference. The grass is hard now instead of fluffy like it was before and doesn’t flake off to much. Today I patched it up and added more grass. Tomorrow I’ll add some trees.