How to fix RailKing Triplex stuck in Neutral

UPDATE 3: So I went to my local Hobby Shop yesterday, and they said they wouldn't actually do the reset there, they'd have to outsource it. Which seems ridiculous to me, but whatever. And then they said it'd take about a month and cost $20. So I just kinda said, "Thanks but no thanks" and looked into the DCS RC more.

Now, according to this thread posted here in 2016, you CAN factory reset with the DCS RC (and also that the W-B sequence doesn't count as a factory reset). Considering that, with Black Friday being tomorrow (meaning that TrainWorld's DCS RC will probably be on sale), I could just get that system and reset for just over double the cost in probably less time, and then have a command system to boot afterword. So that's my plan.

@BurkusCircus52 posted:

Considering that, with Black Friday being tomorrow (meaning that TrainWorld's DCS RC will probably be on sale), I could just get that system and reset for just over double the cost in probably less time, and then have a command system to boot afterword. So that's my plan.

I will dig out my DCS commander that has been sitting idle for about 3 years. I'll test it and make sure everything works. If you don't mind used, you can have it for $20 + around $8 for UPS priority shipping. I'll throw in a TVS diode and an ATC fuse holder with a couple of 7.5 amp fuses (you will need to add the fuseholder to your own wiring). Do not have the plug that goes to a transformer, but then neither do the ones sold new. I bought several barrel to 2 wire adapters that I've used with this and the DCS explorer, but can't find them or I'd throw one of those in. Can also add the Realtrax power connector for an additional 5 bucks if you are interested.

Let me  know if you're interested and I'll post my email address so we can talk back and forth.

Now I have to go look for those stinkin' adapters I know I have somewhere

@Quietman posted:

I'll throw in a TVS diode and an ATC fuse holder with a couple of 7.5 amp fuses (you will need to add the fuseholder to your own wiring). ... I bought several barrel to 2 wire adapters that I've used with this and the DCS explorer, but can't find them or I'd throw one of those in.

I’m not entirely sure what that stuff with the diodes means, but yeah I’ll take it! I use FasTrack, so I won’t need the track adapter.

My email is just my username with @gmail.com on the end.

You can reset with a MTH Commander.   Put the engine on the track.   Power it up.  Hit Whistle.  Direction and the Minus button.  The engine will respond with a sound and reset

@BurkusCircus52 posted:

The product number is 30-1647-1E. It was part of a set in 2014.

...

"There are two ways to reset an engine. One requires newer software in the engine that understands a button sequence, the other is through a full DCS system. Let's start with the DCS Remote Commander button sequence:"

8/12/16   12:11 PM

Note that the reset method in your linked thread, apparently written by an MTH representative, was written in 2016.  As it mentions, it requires a "newer software" PS3 engine that recognizes the button sequence from the DCS Remote Commander.  You say your PS3 engine is from 2014.  Does anyone know how to tell if a particular MTH PS3 engine has the "newer software" without actually trying it?

Iirc, PS3 came out in 2011. In 2016, the mid-point for "newer" would be 2013/2014, so it's right on the edge. I may look through my catalogs and see if its mentioned anywhere.

No way of knowing, I "believe" there was a chain file that could be uploaded to include that capability.  Of course, that assumes you have access to the full DCS system.

I have the exact same set and the engine has always run with no issues!

I use MTh z4000!

Alan 

Alan, do you know if the set has the "new" PS3 referenced by MTH in this thread? Or if you've had to factory reset the engine, what did you use to do so?

@BurkusCircus52 posted:

I’m not entirely sure what that stuff with the diodes means, but yeah I’ll take it! I use FasTrack, so I won’t need the track adapter.

My email is just my username with @gmail.com on the end.

Email sent. Explained what the diode is used for and why the fuses are included.

@BurkusCircus52 posted:

UPDATE 3: So I went to my local Hobby Shop yesterday, and they said they wouldn't actually do the reset there, they'd have to outsource it. Which seems ridiculous to me, but whatever. And then they said it'd take about a month and cost $20. So I just kinda said, "Thanks but no thanks" and looked into the DCS RC more.

Now, according to this thread posted here in 2016, you CAN factory reset with the DCS RC (and also that the W-B sequence doesn't count as a factory reset). Considering that, with Black Friday being tomorrow (meaning that TrainWorld's DCS RC will probably be on sale), I could just get that system and reset for just over double the cost in probably less time, and then have a command system to boot afterword. So that's my plan.

I realize your new plan is for DCS command control operation using a Remote Commander. 

But, just to be clear for anyone stumbling across this thread in a future search interested in conventional operation:

For conventional operation you can indeed reset a Locked-in-Neutral condition using the W-B-B-B-B-B sequence using a conventional transformer on the "approved" MTH list of transformers; the CW-80 is not on the list.  The DIY diode method that GRJ shows will also work to generate a suitable W B sequence albeit that method is not on the "approved" list!  The conventional reset  to exit Locked-in-Neutral applies to any PS2 or PS3 engine regardless of make, model, year.  As mentioned earlier, you need to have a charged battery (for PS2) or a charged supercap (for PS3).