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I built train #10 with powered A unit #10, powered B unit #11 and non-powered A unit #12 with #12 in reversed direction. My CAB2 said train was built so I hit TR10 on remote and the two powered units seemed to fight each other and nothing moved. Also, how do I get my powered couplers to work? I thank all of you in advance for your help. Paul

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Hi Paul,

 

This may sound really silly again, but have you got your B unit on the track the right way around?  It should be placed so that the powered B unit electro-coupler is pointing away from the powered A unit.

When using the consist as a TRAIN, the 'F' coupler button should operate the front coupler on the powered A unit, and the 'R' coupler button should operate the couple on the dummy A unit. The coupler on the powered B unit will not operate in the consist. 

I just got finishing seeing a very cool sight, my ABA F7's running as a multiple unit train! What I needed to do was start over with a different train number, (the one I was using was locked in the CAB1 mode), and add the three units. The non-powered A unit's front coupler worked but the powered A unit's front coupler doesn't. A minor irritation. Thanks again Nicole for your help.

Hi Paul,  sorry for the delay in responding. I was taking a short break away from my computer this evening.

I'm happy to see that you've got it all running OK, and I'm sorry to read how many troubles you've had recently. Hopefully all will go well from now on and you can enjoy your trains as they are intended to be.

As for your coupler, does the coupler work at all? Have you tried it when just addressing the individual engine?  Does it make any sounds when you trigger it?  If it does make a sound, then it could be that it is sticking. (Sometimes a new coupler needs to wear-in a little.) This can be a pain to free up, and normally involves a lot of wiggling the coupler and button pressing to get it to release, but it will open eventually. If you have some graphite powder, a puff of this into the coupler mechanism can help. (Just a small puff though, as it tends to get everywhere if you are too enthusiastic.) Once you do get it to open, a few wiggles and activations normally frees it up and restores it to health. What ever you do though, don't put any kind of oil or grease on the coupler. That can gum them up completely. 

If the coupler doesn't show any signs of life, (No buzzing or vibrations at all.) then it could have failed or possibly the plug could be loose. If it is dead, then the best thing to do is to either send it in for repair, or to replace it yourself. They are under $10 normally, and fairly easy to swap.

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