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After a couple of Christmas assemblies of an 0-27 PE set and standard Fastrack loop, the set's CW80 sits useless. Green light on, no output anywhere. I see a lot of CW80 support on the forum, but sadly, this one is another dud. Part # G080410, so is it one of the "improved" versions?

Anybody got a wiring diagram for converting it to a conventional brick for a Z1000 or something? ( I don't want to go through the hassle of sending whatever back and getting another dud)

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J Daddy posted:

Honestly, you cannot go wrong with some 180 bricks if you run command. Just buy a circuit breaker box and your good to go. I would send your transformer to the recycle bin...

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Thanks Jdaddy. I'm a conventional operator and no fan of complicated electronics in my hobbies. The CW80 schematics I've found online make no sense to me, so I think I'll take your advice.  While I was steaming at the transformer, I had a memory flash of a couple of articles on 3-rail layouts that had been converted to DC.........hmmmmm...

Last edited by Firewood

I bought the Lionel Wabash Bluebird set a few years ago and got about a half-hour out of the CW80 piece of snit that came with it. I then followed a number of repair attempts, but couldn't easily find a triangular screwdriver and moved on. I've heard that using the triangular (long-shank) driver will open the casing, then it's not too difficult to substitute a quality breaker - the circuit breaker appears to be the Achilles heel for any unfortunate soul who has this turkey...

Virginian65 posted:

................ but couldn't easily find a triangular screwdriver and moved on. I've heard that using the triangular (long-shank) driver will open the casing, .....................

Unfortunately it's listed as not in stock at the moment, but here is an amazon listing for the screwdriver I bought to access these screws.  I did note in my search that there seemed to be a fair amount of differences in the way these type of screwdrivers are specified(or maybe it was the way people were stating the right size in posts vs the specifications, I forget now).

I never actually took a CW-80 apart with it, but I did fit it to the screw heads when I received it and it's the right size.

Driver for CW-80 screws.

-Dave

Last edited by Dave45681

Gentlemen,

 As many here know I have very strong opinions on CW-80 Transformers, some think I am a might hard on them, had one burn up right on my power station many years ago. However they were built as a small entry level throw away transformer, once you have a problem with them, they really are not worth spending any money on to repair, and should be thrown away, especially the older models.  If you want to run your bumper street cars with them, fine, if they are in good shape.  The minimum power supply I recommend to people just getting into our hobby is the Z-1000.  The old KW & ZW's are even better, with the 10 Amp breakers in front of them.  If you have a problem with a CW-80 Transformer, do yourself a favor, pitch it and upgrade.

PCRR/Dave 

Last edited by Pine Creek Railroad

Most all Post War Transformers, save the ones that came with the Scout sets have withstood the test of time and are easy to repair if needed. I use my 1033 and LW with everything including Legacy and DCS. I just added a fast breaker for command applications. Easy to find 1033s at train shows in the 25-35 buck range. KISS

 

Pete

gunrunnerjohn posted:

If you'd like to know what's in the CW-80, here's the schematic

Thanks John,

I was surprised at the extent of the electronics, so for curiosity's sake I looked up the major items like the IC, regulator and amplifier (?) . Just guessing, but the data sheets suggest pretty common, high reliability components, at least from the major manufacturers.  Maybe the CW80 is plagued by cheap knock-offs. Don't mind me; still miffed. 

And thats the crying shame, what looks like a nice postwar styled transformer is plagued with such **** poor quality control or durablity.  Just makes me shake my head at the trash coming out of Lionel anymore.  If your gonna be the industry leader, this isn't the way to do it.  My 1948 vintage 1041 from my father's 1423w set, a bottom end set of that era, just keeps working to this day, with only a new power cord as its only repair needed, even blows the whistle on command as it did on day 1.   Mike

Virginian65 posted:

I bought the Lionel Wabash Bluebird set a few years ago and got about a half-hour out of the CW80 piece of snit that came with it. 

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You know, when I think about it, that's probably the extent of the run-time this as-new piece of junk actually saw.

 

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