Volphin posted:Waddy posted:Go to the hardware store and get some brushing lacquer, about $20 per quart. It simply dries a little slower than spraying lacquer, which dries FAST. The reason I say get brushing lacquer is spraying lacquer is getting hard to find. My local auto paint store can order it for me but it's very pricey now. Both are just nitrocellulose lacquer, which is what Dullcoat is.
Then go to the auto paint store and get a pint of flattening agent. Nothing is cheap when it comes to auto paint these days but a can will run about $20.
You aren't going to brush it on. Well, I guess you could, but controlling thickness is harder; maybe thin it with Acetone. Use your hobby air brush sprayer ( mine is a simple Paasche single stage) to spray on the lacquer. A light coat is all you need; in fact, never glob it on. But controlling the thickness is easy with a hobby sprayer.
To make the lacquer dull just mix in the flattening agent. I love doing it this way, as I can control just how flat the final finish turns out. Still too bright, hit it with a second coat in a few minutes after the first coat dries and you can see what you got, then mix in more flattening agent for the next spray. I find 25% flattening agent gives me a very dull finish, but still clear. (Doesn't get cloudy).
A quart of brushing lacquer and a couple pints of flattening agent are enough for probably a hundred cars, or more. And in the long run way cheaper than that tiny can of Dullcoat.
Enamel paint is considered a cold finish, while lacquer is considered a hot finish. Sometimes a hot finish can burn through a cold finish, but I've never had that happen as thin coats of dull lacquer do the job. That's one reason not to glob it on. And let the enamel sit a couple of days before doing the dull lacquer dull coat.
If you are fearful of burn through and want a great water based dull finish, get Nelson's flat clear. It's water based, used on real airplanes, is extremely durable and sprays easily. Water based is a little tricky to spray for a person not used to spraying water-based paints. And it takes a little while to dry as the water evaporates. It is not all that pricey.
No offense, but acetone and my plastics stay VERY far apart. While a great thinner for metal, it will attack almost every model plastic made.
Acetone is fine as a reducer on plastic if it is sprayed. It will most certainly ruin plastic if wiped on as a stripper.
Tru-Color paint is reduced with acetone as per the manufacturer. It can be used on plastic with no problems.
Dave
