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Today I powered up four brand new Atlas O switches and I powered up one leg. None of them would push power through from the end of one leg to the other. I am a very experienced Atlas O user and I know that powering each leg or soldering jumpers is the best guarantee for power to pass through but I thought that the more robust wiring of the newer Atlas O switches would allow me to forego jumpers. I was careful to clean the end of the rails and use new track connectors. Power was fine up to the end of the first rail leg on each switch and then the loco died.

I am trying to wire for the best DCS signal and I don't want to power each leg of the switch. I prefer to use jumpers if that is the only solution. Is anyone else having this problem? I have contacted Atlas to see what they have to say. I am committed to the Atlas switches. I don't want to change to Ross or anything else for aesthetic reasons. At almost $100 per switch, I should be able to figure this out.

Eliot

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I've had success with my Atlas switches by using the plastic insulators on the center rail on the straight and diverging ends of the switch, then powering the track block just a little beyond the switch at those points with feeder wires, as part of the overall wiring for DCS.  I've had no power issues on the mainline or the sidings from the switches.  I also wired my layout for DCS using a 12 GA. bus wire around the perimeter of the layout with 16 GA. wire for the track feeders.

The Atlas switches I have were bought back in 2002.

Last edited by Traindiesel

I don't have any of the latest generation of Atlas switches, but have about 40 of the previous ones. I've found that the tiny screws that secure the underside jumpers sometimes don't work as they should at conducting power. The screw occasionally doesn't seat properly causing the ring lug at the end of the jumper to not fully contact the screw. Usually all it takes to fix it is to tighten the screw. However sometimes I've found plastic molding flash that prevents proper contact and the flash has to be removed.

When I install any Atlas switch now I check continuity through the switch with an ohmmeter and make sure the jumper screws are tight. Also I place a little dab of epoxy around the screw and in contact with the plastic to prevent vibration from eventually backing the screw out (after the epoxy dries check the switch for continuity again as sometimes the epoxy will flow between the screw head and the ring lug breaking the electrical contact and you will have to redo the connection). I have had a couple of instances where a screws have backed out after several years of operation. Fortunately the switches were not ballasted and could be taken up and fixed.

I run extra jumpers for the center rail of each switch to make sure all legs are powered. The jumpers have no affect on DCS signal strength.

Ken

 

 I wired my track long before DCS hit the market. Layout is mostly buss wired. Every isolated rail of my Ross turnouts has a wire soldered to it. Many are joined under the roadbed depending upon which block they are attached to. All outside rail wires are tied together attached to a common ground. I get 10's everywhere.

 A perfect 10 signal isn't worth much if trains constantly stall. I'd wire every rail of the turnout. Hook everything up so it runs without a hitch. Then worry about trying to get a 10. I think you will find DCS is pretty forgiving as far as how it's wired.

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