Scale Daylight Models - A Photo Sharing Thread and Discussion on Accuracy

Well, perhaps that was a definitive enough answer for you, but when I saw statements that the correct paint finish is supposed to be bright like the 4449 (and see the bright lustrous pictures at their website), and also statements saying that it matches the GGD cars (which appear so different and are not "bright"), I got confused. It happens when you're dense like me.  

 

 

I can't tell if you're addressing me, Bob. I couldn't be sure. I don't have these cars or any desire to acquire them, but rather, as I've stated, have only been interested in the Daylight colors from an historical perspective. I haven't been involved in any discussion as to differences in construction of various cars. That's an interesting discussion, though. 

Nope.  Not aimed at you.  Some time ago there was a discussion about SP using different red for Shasta.  First, I assume we settled it.  Second, I still cannot believe that that would have been a worthwhile discussion in that context, given the underlying model.

 

Picture a Daylight 4-8-4 issued in Tuscan with gold stripes.  Can you see an argument as to whether it is the correct PRR tuscan?  That is the best analogy I can come up with.

I'm honestly at a loss for words at this point. We have several highly knowledgeable people in this thread explaining why photos cannot be trusted for color comparison and someone directly involved with the 4449 telling us he actually took the color samples and matched them up to the GGD cars. And yet this STILL isn't conclusive enough for you breezinup? I just don't understand what else it is you could possibly want to hear on the subject 

 

Not to mention, he don't have any of the cars anyway. He's just one of those people that like to stir the pot. Just when it settles down, he has to say something to start it back up.

I respectfully submit it's time to put the color debate to rest and move on.

AGREED! 

 

It has been settled for quite a while.  What is going on now is wishful thinking - hoping that some very expensive models are a version of the correct color.

 

This phenomenon is not unique to color, or even model trains.  My other passion is airplanes.  There are some very expensive modifications available for airplanes, and once you buy in to the hype and spend three grand, you want to see improvement.  So you see it, whether or not it is there.  And you argue passionately - just like folks who want you to believe their version of religion.

 

I am guilty of that on a grand scale.  I have converted many friends to the Piper Cub.  So far I have converted no one to 17/64 scale, my first passion.

<FLAMESUIT>

 

This thread continues because there is a sizable group of people hearabouts who would accept a brick as an acceptably accurate model of many railroad cars and locomotives so long as the paint, to their eyes, is correct.

 

Contrarily, the very best from Kohs or Key is a piece of junk because the green/red/blue/whatever paint is not correct to their eyes.

 

</FLAMESUIT>

If this was brought up some time ago in previous pages, I apologize, but with regards to Lionel's 4436 Legacy model...should the white that trims all the "wheels" on the enigine be removed?  What would the easist way to do this for a DIYer?

 

Thanks.  

 

P.S.  PC9850 - it was nice running into you at the Orange Hall prior to the meet.  Hope the Hudson project is going well.

Try simply painting over the white tires. Southern Pacific steam locomotives did NOT have whit tires in service. Those photos that occasionally show up are the "builder photos", which are many times enhanced in order to show off locomotive details, and generally did NOT leave the factory painted in such a fashion.

Thank you.  I might even try applying some paint stripper...in small doses, of course.  

Floquil engine black, on the tires, and many of the detail parts which were painted silver:

 

 

My GS2 is next, they even painted the tender wheels white on that one. Stick out like a sore thumb. 

 

Yes, small brush, its very easy because black covers anything well, and because the O scale equipment is so large. I would think that a small paint brush and black paint is much easier and quicker than trying to strip that little bit of paint.

 

I bet if you use your finger nail, you could even scratch off the white paint. You'll see in this pic, the rear driver... I started to scratch off the paint with my finger nail, but realized it was much quicker for me to just paint them. Plus, that left a bare metal looking color which didn't match the wheel, which is what you'll get if you strip the pint off. The paint process will go quickly.

 

Thanks.  I think it looks so much better black.  I did Google search and I did see a couple of images with them white, but what Hotwater said certainly makes a lot of sense to me.  I'm glad I asked the question.  Off to the paint booth.

 

 

Yes they do look MUCH better, but remember; DO NOT PAINT OVER THOSE STARS ON THE ENDS OF THE AXLES (wheel centers)! On the Southern Pacific, those stars are NOT decretive, but mean that THAT locomotive is equipped with pressure feed oil lubricated crown bearings, and thus does NOT have the "standard" grease cakes for axle bearing lubrication.

Get a Testor's flat black enamel paint marker #2549.  Shake well, and try on a scrap paper.  Then block the model or carefully support it on its side with valve gear not contacting anything.

 

Apply power, get it running slowly and smoothly.  Touch each driver with the marker.

 

Takes less time to do it than to talk about it.

 

You can apply white or silver this way, too, but it requires a steady hand and some practice.  Doing the black is simply a trivial exercise.. no practice needed.

Larry - It was a pleasure meeting and talking to you at York as well! 

 

I actually just did something similar to this last night on my 3rd Rail J3a. The driver rims are plated shiny on that model and it was bothering me. I started trying to paint them in place but I wasn't able to get any sort of consistency just by my own hand. Scratched off the first attempt with the end of a credit card and devised a better technique. I got a brush about the width of the driver rim fairly wet with Pollyscale engine black, got the locomotive moving on a straightaway at speed step 1, and held the brush against the rim as it drove by. Any excess or unevenness eventually got smoothed out by letting the brush go a few more revolutions over the rim. Sometimes a second application was necessary. The end result looks great; you can only just barely tell the rims have been painted:

 

Looks great, Nick.  I think I will try the marker...I don't think even I could screw that up.  Like the idea of putting it in motion.  Thanks for the tips, guys!

 

 

Nick those are excellent improvements you made to that Hudson, she definitely has a much more correct appearance now.  I like to put my engines up on blocks and run them at a slow speed when I do my weathering as well, it really helps you to get into the nooks and crannies and get a nice coat a grime on them.  

I am super lazy, so I actually paint my mechanisms that way.  Sounds pretty primitive, but they still win prizes.  Once the paint is on, you gotta let them run a bit so the paint does not seep into a rod bearing and get gummy.  Best to paint the main frame first, though.  Please, nobody say "yikes!"

a nice GS2 @ Riverside for the Fall Meet a few weeks ago (1:8 scale)...

 

That is beautiful...wow.

Indeed, very nice Bob!

 

As some of you may have already seen, my Lionel GS-2 is up on the FS board right now. After a lot of consideration I have made the decision to trade up to the 3rd Rail model of 4449. Laidoffsick, thanks a lot for the peer pressure and those beautiful photos of a perfectly matched train and prototypical modifications 

Not even close. My interest is historical, as I've said numerous times. I have no interest in stirring anything, and I'm not trying to justify any model because I own it. And I'm not being snide about it.

That was me stirring.  I saw the thread disappearing into the archives, so resurrected my scratch Daylight.  I did see the Lionel GS-2 - that looks to me to be a bargain!  I would get it, but still have the FEF to 2- rail, and now have three Daylight Northerns, a Daylight Mountain, and a Daylight Pacific.  No more room.

That's exactly what I paid for it; I could maybe even earn a little more by bringing it to eBay but it would probably just get eaten up in the 9% fee on final value and 9% fee on shipping...

 

And yet I still get emails from people wanting it cheaper plus free shipping.  

No problem

Boy, did this thread drop to the bottom of the basket.

 

On the white running boards and driver tires, I found a photo of an F-4 "Deck" (#3680) wearing white running boards and maybe white driver tires, while in service in April 1955 - six months before retirement.

I don't know how current it is but Scott has a 3R Daylight in the "Boneyard" section of the website?

None of these topics ever last. They just go to sleep for a while until someone who remembered the thread brings it back to life with new info or a new project / acquisition.