K-Line Snap Track Power

I solder the wire to a spade lug and insert the lug into the bottom of the rail. I have done this on both the K-Line/RMT track and Lionel O gauge.

I use the SuperSnap track as well. There is a lighted lock on available especially for it called "The Protector" which has some kind of built-in current protection:

Western Depot Trains, who were once a major K-Line dealer, still have these in stock, see this page:

http://www.westerndepot.com/pr...700/products_id/4925

P.S. I have used this product in preference to the SuperSnap terminal track section, which I found a little unreliable in a carpet layout context where the wires to it had to be detached and put back in. (Over a short time the terminal screw threads wore out and it's not easy to find these track sections any more.)  This lock on has two clips and will fit between the ties on the track - at least on a straight section.

Ross posted:

I solder the wire to a spade lug and insert the lug into the bottom of the rail. I have done this on both the K-Line/RMT track and Lionel O gauge.

 Thanks. I am looking at a peace of k-line snaptrack as I write this and I am wondering where you actually push the lug in.  The best place I see is between the plastic tie and the metal outside rail and middle rail.

JohnF

Hancock52 posted:

I use the SuperSnap track as well. There is a lighted lock on available especially for it called "The Protector" which has some kind of built-in current protection:

Western Depot Trains, who were once a major K-Line dealer, still have these in stock, see this page:

http://www.westerndepot.com/pr...700/products_id/4925

P.S. I have used this product in preference to the SuperSnap terminal track section, which I found a little unreliable in a carpet layout context where the wires to it had to be detached and put back in. (Over a short time the terminal screw threads wore out and it's not easy to find these track sections any more.)  This lock on has two clips and will fit between the ties on the track - at least on a straight section.

Thanks for the info. I did manage to find reviews on these lockons and they were not too promising. The complaint was that the circuit breaker or whatever they use is not too good and too easily cuS tout and in some cases just did not seem to work. I have used simple lockons for years and never had an issue with a power surge. I did find a source  for shadow rail terminal track and they are less than half the price of the lighted lockon ($5 versus $13). I would be using at least half a dozen and the cost difference mounts up. With the shadow rail I would be getting a full track also.  I do like how these track look as compared to the standard 0 gauge tubular track.  Decisions, decisions.

Johnf

John F posted:

Thanks for the info. I did manage to find reviews on these lockons and they were not too promising. The complaint was that the circuit breaker or whatever they use is not too good and too easily cuS tout and in some cases just did not seem to work. I have used simple lockons for years and never had an issue with a power surge. I did find a source  for shadow rail terminal track and they are less than half the price of the lighted lockon ($5 versus $13). I would be using at least half a dozen and the cost difference mounts up. With the shadow rail I would be getting a full track also.  I do like how these track look as compared to the standard 0 gauge tubular track.  Decisions, decisions.

Johnf

I prefer it too and it has lasted through numerous assemblies and disassemblies.

If you are having as many as six power connections then, unless the terminal tracks are going to be fixed in place, I think I'd solder the connections in preference to either those tracks or the K-Line lock on. I can't vouch for how multiple lock ons would work and experience with the terminal tracks was that they all too often have issues - including in one case right out of the box.

John, I don't have any tracks with wires attached to photograph unless I remove them from my modules.  Here is a picture of a spare piece.  What I do is remove a piece of the plastic between the ties (circled in red) and insert the lug there. I typically don't take them out next to each other, but I doubt it matters.  I've used several methods to remove the plastic, utility knife, razor saw, Dremel tool cutting disk, all with success.

Ross posted:

John, I don't have any tracks with wires attached to photograph unless I remove them from my modules.  Here is a picture of a spare piece.  What I do is remove a piece of the plastic between the ties (circled in red) and insert the lug there. I typically don't take them out next to each other, but I doubt it matters.  I've used several methods to remove the plastic, utility knife, razor saw, Dremel tool cutting disk, all with success.

Thanks for the follow up info. I am going to experiment on one track and test my soldering skills (I haven't done this in years). Not removing the plastic next to each other lessens the chance of the two ends touching to avoid shorts so I think it's a good idea.

John