Kadee 700 series couplers

I have just recently bought some & I think they are very good. They are completely compatible with the #805, use the  same draftgear box, & best of all in my opinion the small knuckle spring won't go missing, as it's almost totally hidden. I doubt I'll buy any more #805's.
A while back I contacted the chap who makes Sargent couplers in HO to ask if he had plans to do them in O. He said how good he thought the Kadee 700-series looked, so wasn't committing himself, but I did think that if he thought that then it was a good recommendation!!

I think the main difference is the side spring is enclosed on the 700's. One less of those dreadful, tiny springs per coupler to do battle with. The coupler itself and the knuckle is maybe a tad smaller. The plastic gear box covers seem to stay together better than the metal ones. The 700's probably look a bit better as the side spring is hidden.

 

If you are used to the 800's I would suggest getting the equivalent to what you are used to in the 700 series and compare for yourself. Not a big difference in them, but it might be more of a personal preference and just enough difference so you may not like the new ones?

 

I have not used either of them yet, however I purchased some of each. I plan on converting some of my rolling stock, but haven't started any of the conversions yet, so I have no hands on experience with them other than trying to install the springs in the ones I have. Had to get some extra springs after the first attempt at assembly, some went flying, never to be seen again. My grandson put the rest together for me, he still has great vision and can actually see the springs.

I have tons of both, the new 700's and the 805's. I prefer all 700's on any new stuff I buy now, and definitely engines, but..... if you use the between the rail magnets for uncoupling, like I do on my switching layout, they don't play so nice together. The 700's don't open quite as far as the 805's do, causing them to stick together when trying to uncouple hands free. The 805s definitely work better for "hands free" uncoupling.

 

If you don't do any switching "hands free", or if you use a screwdriver/pick to uncouple.... stick with the new 700's. Looks are definitely an improvement, and no external springs to get lost and have to replace.

I definitely prefer the 700 series over the 800 series. The appearance is WAAYYY better and operationally, they're compatible with the Atlas and Kadee 800's. Haven't bought any 800 series since the 700's came out. I use a small screwdriver to uncouple them, but all indications are that they'd work just fine with the magnets.

They work fine if you use 700s with 700s, and 800s with 800s. When you mix them, is when you have problems with the magnets for uncoupling.

I haven't had any such problems as described by 'mixing' 700 & 800 types - using between rail magnets as well. In my experience they work together just fine!! I have found 700s even less willing to couple with Atlas than the 800s are - in fact I have replaced all my Atlas couplers with Kadees, even where a bit of ingenuity - or bodging!! - has been required.
I reckon that better than us arguing about  this, the best thing for the OP to do is buy a set (#740 is the direct equal to #805) & try them for himself.....

Sunday Shunte:

 

I have purchased a set and I like them fine, looks wise.  I do not have my layout to the point where I could test them in use so I asked for opinions from people who have, before I order enough for my rolling stock.  I thought that was forums were for:

 

Follow up Question:

 

What is everyone using to do manual uncoupling?  I have heard of Pencils, small screwdriver, shish-kebab stick, chop sticks etc. My experience is with On30 (HO scale Kadee and McHenry) and I use a pointy metal stick from MicroMark.

 

Thanks,

 

Peter

Good morning

I use both and personally I think the 800 ones work better and the 700 looks better and you can also get different types. The long uncoupling pin on the 700's don't like some locomotive pilots.

 

Clem k

No worries Peter it is indeed what Forums are for
You said in the 1st post you "need to purchase"... sorry, I took that to mean you didn't have any, ...yet; hence why I suggested 'buy & try' yourself, because as Forums also indicate, everyone seems to have different experiences even with identical products....
Re uncoupling, in HO I use wooden kebab skewers; in O I use between-rail magnets.

Peter, I am in the same position as you. I don't have my layout where I could really test the 700s out. I kind of disappointed to hear from Laidoffsick that there are some problems when uncoupling a 700 from a 800 or vice versa. I hope it isn't a big issue.

 

Like Matt I really like the look of the 700s and the fact the outer spring is hidden. I've decided to only buy the 700s from here on out. Whatever I have with an 805 or K-Line knockoff I will just keep that way. No need to spend money replace a coupler that works.

The 805 will stay coupled to the claws very well, but not so much with the 700s, without sum filing to the knuckle. Im with Clem, 700s look better, but 800s work better for realistic switching operations. Just my own personal experience.

Sunday, I understand about everyone having different experiences with the same product......just read some customer reviews of ANYTHING on Amazon!!!!  Same item: "junk-don't buy" to "sliced bread-you gotta get one"!!!

 

Last question, everyone.  Plastic or metal?  I have read the differences in HO but curious about O.  I will NOT be running any more than maybe an 8 car train (strength issue) due to smallish size and tight curves.  In HO (On30) I actually like the plastic as their surface slipperiness makes them easy to couple.  I have both types in the old style on ready to go cars and some locomotives. 

 

The reason I'm asking is I want to make one order with these fellows and get a volume discount  http://www.kadeecouplers.com/ 

 

Anybody have experience with them?

 

Peter

I use both 805s and the new ones now.   

 

First, the latest 805s and the new 700s in metal are coated with a very slippery surface, probably better than the delrin/plastic.   

 

I like to paint my couplers "rail brown" for a rusted dirty look.   I have found that the paint will sometimes jam up the plastic couplers but most of the time will not jam the metal ones.   I prefer the metal ones mostly for that  reason.

 

I like the long shank, overset, and underset options onthe new ones that can get couplers at the right height without shims or grinding away bolsters.

 

I used the long shank ones on the front of my GGD E7s because the gladhans of opposing couplers would hit the pilot on the regular length ones.

I buy from Kadeecouplers.com. Prices are good/shipping is reasonable.

 

As for metal vs. plastic. I prefer metal couplers and boxes. If you have brass cars or locomotives and want them insulated from the item they're coupled to, use the 743 short shank or 745's which have plastic boxes.

I use the lever

AG.

AG.

 

Wow, I had not seen that before.  How does it work exactly?  Any chance you have a picture of the car upside-down you could post?  Looks pretty slick, my friend.  Thanks.

 

Peter

From the Three Rail scale forum.  Commonly used Kadee Couplers from the Kadee website.  Note the 700 series and some of the advantages.

Helpful diagrams from the Kadee site. A lot of information on this page. 
Added 745 and 746 diagrams. 4/3/13

Kadee 805

Kadee 806 short

Kadee 847 Underset shank. Coupler center and mounting height are the same.

Kadee 742 Overset shank Increases mounting height.

Kadee 745  Plastic #817 draft gear.

Kadee 746   Longer coupler shank noted.