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Ok, so I was looking thru a magazine and saw an ad for Key Model Imports, went to their website and just about had an orgasmic response to all the SP Daylight stuff they are showing there. But I thought I would ask the experts if these guys are the real deal? How does their stuff run? How is their delivery times? How is their customer service? And a big one, how are their prices?

Tim

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It appears Key does not actually price any of there models on the web site but leaves it up to the interestered buyers to deal with the "authorized" dealers, price obivously can vary. The Caboose in CT. suggested 2200 to 2400 for Sd-40-2s. Overland to its credit puts out a suggested list price at least on there previous models, the current Heritage models are flexible[ up only] on final pricing. I believe if MMW goes forward with there SD-45 project there could be some sticker shock when final numbers are announced. In the case of most modern diesels most buyers would want more than one, double or triple those numbers. Just food for thought.

Chris, that brass dealer you mentioned has an A&B E6 UP for 1800. and after it all sorts of AA for 4000. Does not compute. Any offering why. I was first shocked that I got A&B for 1800 as Atlas charges separatly for the B but then the AA deal was so expensive and the kids are too old for me ot sell and BAC stock has a few years yet to prove rewards.

 

Phill

The latest run of E8/9's had and all KEY models going forward will have the improved ballbearing drive, simulated prime mover with lighting inside the shell so it can be viewed through the windows/portholes/side grills as well as some other very nice improvements. KEY is constantly improving their product. I just wish they'd get the top headlight slope correct. Shouldn't kick back at the top as it does on the E7 set being discussed. Every KEY E or F "A" unit I've owned had this same mistake, although some not as pronounced as this E7 set. I keep waiting for this to be corrected as the rest of the model is outstanding. 

 

With all the issues the new 3rd Rail E7's have at least they got this feature correct.  And at $450-500 dollars per unit the mistakes are more tolerable and correctable.  

 

Butch

Originally Posted by up148:

KEY is constantly improving their product. I just wish they'd get the top headlight slope correct. Shouldn't kick back at the top as it does on the E7 set being discussed. Every KEY E or F "A" unit I've owned had this same mistake, although some not as pronounced as this E7 set. I keep waiting for this to be corrected as the rest of the model is outstanding. 

 

Butch

Butch,  If you are saying the top headlight is vertical, I respectfully disagree. If you look at pictures from the side, there is a slight backward tilt at the top. The only bulldog nose that was vertical was the F9 series, as the headlight was a bit different. Note this image of the E7 in the PRR museum:

 

     http://www.railpictures.net/vi...d=327581&nseq=68

 

You can see the slight backward tilt.

 

Key's orientation of the nose is pretty well done.

 

Simon

Originally Posted by CWEX:

Simon I think he referring to the hood line from the windshield to the tip of the headlight housing...not the face or lens area.

Hello Chris,

 

I don't read it that way, but I could easily be in error. Maybe Butch will clarify. Always room for discussion as far as the contours of the bulldog nose. There was a LOT of Bondo on those contours in the real world!

 

Simon

Hi Butch,

I see what you are getting at, but to me if the models profile is off it isn't by much.  In these photos here you can see and compare for your self.  The 3rd photo down of the NYC unit is probablly the best to see the angle.  But you gotta love what you spend your $ on.

 Here is an E6 on the left and a E7 on the right.

 

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Last edited by N&W Class J
Originally Posted by up148:
This apparently is a subjective issue that bothered me enough that it ruined the models for me.  Other than that I think they are great.

 

Butch 

 

 

 

Butch,

 

Thanks for responding! I agree with you that I would like a bit LESS tilt than a bit MORE, but I guess I would rather have a bit too much rather than NONE! I think the models might imitate the real world in that they vary from one model to another.

 

Here's a link to Key's website and an image of a line of E7's from the latest run:

 

   http://www.keymodels.net/id25.html

 

It looks to me like some (the NYC unit in particular) slope back more than others, which makes sense considering the things are hand made!

 

I find there are some with contours that please my eyes, while others just don't appeal. I fully understand your point of view.

 

Simon

"It looks to me like some (the NYC unit in particular) slope back more than others, which makes sense considering the things are hand made!"

 

 

Excellent observation Simon and I believe you hit the nail on the head. Unfortunately, my units more closely resembled the NYC units in the photos and being yellow (UP) paint, the slope was highlighted. 

 

I was thinking about this earlier today and wonder exactly how the builder formed the nose contour on brass models.  Plastic locos would be easy since they are injection molded, but you can't inject a brass model.  Are they pressed into a mold or block? 

 

Butch

Originally Posted by up148:

I think we found a happy answer Roger.  Thanks for posting the drawing as I lost the one you sent me when I got a new computer.

 

Since you're online.  How do they form the nose on brass models?

 

Butch

 

 

I believe they are formed using a very expensive machine that used to belong to Samhongsa.   I'm not sure who owns that press now but the builders have to rent it to

form the nose on the F and E units.

Originally Posted by Bryan D.:

Hi Phill,

          I'm guessing $1800-$2000 per unit . If you don't have a regular dealer you deal with you may want to contact Roger Lewis at Wasatch Model Company - he is great to deal with and  has a good tie-in with Key .

          Regards,

          Bryan

My price on the FT's and all the F units is going to be $1950 for the A units, $1750 for the B units.  I know it seems like an F unit should cost less then an E unit but the Koreans don't see it that way.  The cost of everything is going up all the time in Korea.  My trucks from OCS keep getting more expensive every time I run them.  

 

Thanks for the kind words Bryan.

 

Roger

Originally Posted by up148:

"It looks to me like some (the NYC unit in particular) slope back more than others, which makes sense considering the things are hand made!"

 

 

Excellent observation Simon and I believe you hit the nail on the head. Unfortunately, my units more closely resembled the NYC units in the photos and being yellow (UP) paint, the slope was highlighted. 

 

I was thinking about this earlier today and wonder exactly how the builder formed the nose contour on brass models.  Plastic locos would be easy since they are injection molded, but you can't inject a brass model.  Are they pressed into a mold or block? 

 

Butch

Butch,

 

I agree, it seems like some E unit headlights have more slope to them then others.  I know some look like they don't have any slope at all.  And some of the Late Key E units may have had a little too much slope.  Not much, just a little.  I think you will see that large steam engine that you have been waiting for before the end of the year.

I have to ask all of you who are buying the products by Key,Overland,Kohs and such. With a price tag that high on what are with out question drop dead gorgeous models, how (for lack of a better term) disappointed are you when a detail like that is off or just flat out incorrect? I gather a deal breaker for some.  I own some brass models and I know there are some details that are incorrect or missing and for me it comes down to my own personal "can I live with it" feelings.  Now this said I understand that no model is 100%, to me they can't be as everything just doesn't always scale down well and consideration has to be given to operational reliability.  So what are all of your thoughts on the matter?

The overall look has to be "right"for me. This is different for everyone and is based on how much exposure they have had to the prototype. It's not brass but an example is the Atlas RS3. I was given one as a gift and really hadn't looked at the prototype much. I was happy with it at that time. It didn't take long before I saw the gross mistakes in the model. After that I couldn't even look at it without being let down. I guess the moral of this story is do less research you will find less mistakes and be happier with your models. If I ever pay upwards of $2000 for a model I am going to stop looking a prototype photos to assure my happiness. Ken The guy from AR
Originally Posted by splitwindow:
I believe they are formed using a very expensive machine that used to belong to Samhongsa.   I'm not sure who owns that press now but the builders have to rent it to form the nose on the F and E units.

If you look at the Samhongsa models and the new generation ones (by Sam Model Tech as I recall) there appears to be common parentage, which would support the above comments.

 

I have heard from someone very familiar with brass model building that the noses had further refinement after they were stamped. On the assumption that this is correct, it might be a likely reason for the slightly differing appearance of various models.

 

Perhaps some points that could be illuminated sometime you are chatting with Dave DeVita.

 

Simon

 

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