Large Layout Accessory Power Supply Recommendations

I use two MTH Z-1000's to power most of my accessories.  There are some accessories attached to two GW-180's on the accessory posts that run my trains, but the Z-1000's are for accessories only.

Ron

No simple answer here.

Make a spreadsheet, list your accessories and the load for each, plus whether they are permanently on or only intermittent. This will tell you the total. also  note the voltage they operate best (e.g. my oil drum loader likes 10 volts).

As many accessories as you have, you might consider various buses or districts. I have a zw and each of the four handles  is fused feeding accessories in different areas. I use a 1033 for the items which like low volts.

When I wire a layout, I like to use a Lionel Z transformer for accessories and lights.  There is 250 watts of power and four separate variable outputs.  I run a set of  4 color coded  buss wires around the layout (one ground or common, one 12 volt, one 15 volt and one 18 volt.)  That way, I have three different voltages available depending on the needs of each accessory.  There are several Z transformers available on the bay for under $100  shipped.  I have had some of these in operation for over 20 years.  They are great transformers for everything except track power.

Don

@A.J. posted:

Hello everyone,

I'm looking for some recommendations.  I have a pretty big layout (L shape 8 x20 by 8x24) and I had been using my Z4000 to power my accessories.  However, as my accessories grew more plentiful I blew the 14 and 12 v outlet on the Z (it still works fine for actually running trains). I hooked up my spare CW80 to power my accessories and it doesn't have enough juice to power my 40 accessories (I'm always adding and building so this number will grow).  Will a Lionel 180 power brick do the trick or is there something else someone can recommend?  Thanks again for your help everyone!

AJ

Unless you really like toy train transformers you could use step down transformers from electrical supply houses at reasonable prices.  John

It has nothing to do with the dimensions of your layout, it has everything to do with not understanding how much current each of your accessories requires. If you want to run all of those whatever they are you must do some work and figure out what the power requirements are. It is pretty obvious that you are demanding more current from equipment that can not provide it.

@DGJONES posted:

When I wire a layout, I like to use a Lionel Z transformer for accessories and lights.  There is 250 watts of power and four separate variable outputs.  I run a set of  4 color coded  buss wires around the layout (one ground or common, one 12 volt, one 15 volt and one 18 volt.)  That way, I have three different voltages available depending on the needs of each accessory.  There are several Z transformers available on the bay for under $100  shipped.  I have had some of these in operation for over 20 years.  They are great transformers for everything except track power.

Don

I do the same with a re-built Z.......as Don points out, the ability to separate the voltages into 4 levels is key.

Peter

one thing you can do to lower current draw on accessories is try to use led's in accessories and passenger car sets to lower current a lot, bulbs in passenger cars draw a lot of current !

Alan

You've got a bunch of great suggestions above.  Here's what I have done:

1. As Hokie71 said, make a spreadsheet of all your accessories and lights.
2. DGJONES's suggestion about separate buses is a great one.  I do the same, except mine are primarily DC, not AC.  I run all my Z-Stuff DZ-2500 switch machines and track signals from one K-Line PowerChief 120F (an accessory AC transformer with 6 different voltage taps).  Another PowerChief 120F is devoted to any AC accessories I might have (none at the time).  I also have a 3V DC wall wart for street lights, a 5V DC power supply for the Arduino, and 2 12VDC power supplies for building lights (LEDs), accessories, and animations.
3. As much as possible, try to move your lighting to LEDs and to DC.  Alan Marcus is correct:  the LEDs draw much less current.
4. As Rattler21 suggested, look at step down transformers from electrical supply houses.  You can also pick up regulated (that's important) DC power supplies cheaply from these places.
5. And definitely keep a plan of all this wiring.

All of these ideas will lower your costs, prevent overheating and blown fuses, and make your trouble-shooting much easier.

George

I have over 25 buildings, many street lights, MTH crossing gates and flashing signals, and Miller signs all powered with a 300 watt PC power supply I salvaged from an old computer. I am not up to half its capacity,  ( 300 watts = 25 amps ), even using three buildings with smoke.

I have 2 old school Zs for accessories... the only thing I need now are the accessories.