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I am planning an 11' by 18' layout with an open center for layout access and maintenance. That necessitates the need for a lift-out or hinged section on one end so I can pass through. It will probably be no more than 18 inches long. I will have a two-track mainline using Lionel tubular O gauge track. The Mianne motorized lift-up module is overkill for me--I just need a simple, manual design that keeps the track in alignment for smooth train running.

I would love to see what OGR Forum members have done and can suggest.

 

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The hinged "Geezer Gate" is a standard feature of our modular layouts.  The challenge is alignment of the tracks when the gate is closed  - even when the modules want to drift out of alignment.  I built one based on an N-Track gate design where alignment of the free end was a trapezoidal tooth that fits into a matching socket.  It self-aligns when the gate is closed.  We use tubular track in the gates.  At the hinged end, the center of the hinge pins has to be above the rail tops (a 3/4" thick spacer under the hinge is perfect for tubular).   Track end alignment on my gate uses wooden ties and screws holding the track instead of metal ties.  The rail gaps are 1/16" or slightly smaller.

For a lift out gate on a fixed layout, your alignment issues are simpler.  There are a number of solutions using pins and slots for the bridge structure.  Mike's alignment in his photos is excellent but tinplate wheels will accommodate some misalignment.

Tracker John posted:

The hinged "Geezer Gate" is a standard feature of our modular layouts.  The challenge is alignment of the tracks when the gate is closed  - even when the modules want to drift out of alignment.  I built one based on an N-Track gate design where alignment of the free end was a trapezoidal tooth that fits into a matching socket.  It self-aligns when the gate is closed.  We use tubular track in the gates.  At the hinged end, the center of the hinge pins has to be above the rail tops (a 3/4" thick spacer under the hinge is perfect for tubular).   Track end alignment on my gate uses wooden ties and screws holding the track instead of metal ties.  The rail gaps are 1/16" or slightly smaller.

For a lift out gate on a fixed layout, your alignment issues are simpler.  There are a number of solutions using pins and slots for the bridge structure.  Mike's alignment in his photos is excellent but tinplate wheels will accommodate some misalignment.

Thanks for the geezer gate info, Tracker John. Do the rail gaps ever create any electrical issues even if you are maintaining electrical continuity with jumper wires, etc.?

 

A piece of pine 1X6, or in your case two pieces or even a piece of ¾ plywood cut to size:

       IMG_0018

Track power via the red/black cable:

       IMG_0017

       IMG_0016

That is a Maytag dryer door switch (Amazon). Putting the bridge in place depresses the button which closes the contacts which provides 120VAC power to the layout. No catastrophic wrecks on the PER. 

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There was another thread with some ideas a little over a month ago here.(some same, and the Mianne, but maybe a few not listed here)

It's probably much too long for you, I think, but there is also this Lionel (FasTrack based) bridge specifically meant for lift out use (like I said though, it's 39", so if you only have 18" in mind, maybe not suitable).  It's admittedly not the cheapest solution either (especially if you need 2 of them for dual mainlines), but it is a nice looking bridge.

If it is OK in the length department, it's easy enough to put a FT to tubular conversion piece at each end to match your tubular layout.

-Dave

 

Last edited by Dave45681
JBuettner posted:

I am planning an 11' by 18' layout with an open center for layout access and maintenance. That necessitates the need for a lift-out or hinged section on one end so I can pass through. It will probably be no more than 18 inches long. I will have a two-track mainline using Lionel tubular O gauge track. The Mianne motorized lift-up module is overkill for me--I just need a simple, manual design that keeps the track in alignment for smooth train running.

I would love to see what OGR Forum members have done and can suggest.

 

Here are some ideas for home made drawbridges.  I’ve done two of them and a third is under construction.

The key words that you used, “ tubular O gauge track “ and “simple, manual design that keeps the track in alignment  ” also describe my objective.

Here is a photo essay on my bridges and layout.

  1. Here’s the first bridge in the raised position – track ends at lower left.IMG_2731

 2. The bridge pier – note nail at end of track.

 3. bridge partly lowered showing moveable track piece.

 IMG_2732IMG_2733

 

  1. I’m placing the alignment pin – all that it takes to maintain alignment, gravity takes care of vertical.
  2. Hinge end of bridge.
  3. IMG_2735IMG_2736
  4. Alignment block.
  5. Placing track clip to maintain alignment.
  6. IMG_2737IMG_2738
  7. Track in place.
  8. Guard rails to protect against high speed train going to the floor.
  9. IMG_2740IMG_2741
  1. We’ll follow the railroad to the other bridge.
  2. IMG_2742
  3. This reply is long enough so will now post and continue with the other bridge.

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  • IMG_2742

Continuing the tour to the other drawbridge location and around the railroad.

1. Around the back workbench and past the window.

b1b2

2. Passing the second bridge

b3b4

3. Then we pass the enginehouse for my collection (all Lionel catalog items 1946-49) and the crossover to the yard and wye.

b5b6

4. And a better view of the enginehouse, tracks in vertical line rather than the usual horizontal - space is limited.

b7

This layout is under the sun room that is off the living room with the chimney between them.  It helps to have an unfinished basement – note how much of the layout hangs from overhead beams.  Most of the track is from the boxes of cheap stuff under the tables at shows.

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Now we'll continue with the second bridge.

1. The raised bridge, held up by screw at upper right corner.

2. The opposite bridge pier.

c1c2

3. Bridge lowered, note very simple hinge arrangement.

4. Alignment blocks (under left side of enginehouse).

c3c4

5. Ready to place the connecting track. (yard entrance in background).

6. Alignment blocks.

c5c6

7. Positioning pin engages hole in end of the tie.

8. Track in place, ready to run

c7c8

The next and final post will complete the collection and layout tour.

 

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Now we'll complete the tour.

 1. Looking down the yard lead, second bridge on the right.

2. The three track yard.  Both lower and upper level tracks house the freight part of the collection.d1d2

 3. Full view of yard and freight collection.  That switch leading off the layout will connect to the third bridge to complete the wye for turning locomotives.

 4. Yard from the other end.

d3d4

5. Cardboard mockup of third bridge.

6. The other side of collection tracks.  All four tinplate passenger sets in 1946-49.  Also the Standard Gauge branch featuring a 10E and set 352E which my uncle had as a boy.

d5d6

7. And finally the lower level loops.  Note siding to the workbench.

d7

Although my layout and collection aren't likely to be on a TCA convention tour, visitors to the Boston area are welcome to have a look close up.

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