Layout made for moving?

My layout was built mostly in 3'x6' sections along with some other sizes to fit the current space.  Theoretically, all I have to do is cut the rails and unbolt everything, move to the new location and bolt it back together.  I would have to tag and cut the wires, however. 

 

But... The reality may turn out different if the time should come.

 

Rusty

Modular layouts use this concept.  It would be easy to adapt.  

I haven't done it myself (I may, though, when finally building a layout), but there have been a lot of articles over the years in magazines about building layouts inmodules that can be taken apart and moved. Basically, you build a series of small tables that come together to form the larger layout, much like the modular layout builders do it. Benchwork from Sievers and the like lends itself to this approach. One article I read not long ago the guy built in modules, the modules are on wheels, and he can re-arrange the modules when he gets bored. 

 

The other pieces of that are things like when you build the layout, make the buildings removable (don't embed them), with landscape features like mountains making them either removable or at the very least, easy to take apart when you do move. There is always going to be damage and loss in moving a layout, but doing it modularly like this seems to be the best way of making rebuilding easier. 

John,

The HO and N scale guys seem to be very good and building very detailed, sculpted layouts that come apart easily in sections. In contrast, most of the O gauge modular layouts that I've seen are quite basic and don't disguise their modularity at all.

Back issues of MR usually have at least one feature like this every year or so.

 

When I built my last layout, I had exactly the same thoughts.  I was living in my 14th home and knew I would be moving again some time.  So, I built it in modules that were 30" wide and no more than 6 feet long.  I had a straight stairway with no landings so the modules would easily go up the stairs.

 

So, we built a new home and moved.  While the house was being built, I stored the modules in a public storage facility.

 

But two negative things happened.  I had switches in many places at the module joints and so had to remove them to move the modules.  But the worst problem was that my new track plan was nothing like my old one. 

 

So, I saved all the lumber and track, but basically had to start over.  I used all the modules as a base for the new bench work, which saved some time and a lot of materials.  I thought that maybe I could save the main yard, but even that didn't work.  It still seemed like it was a good idea, but.....................

 

Art

After considering module layouts for quite a while, I ended up with two mobile layouts.   Mobile in that they are not permanently affixed to a wall or floor.   One is 4X8, the other is 6' X 12'.

 

The smaller is portable, currently on a table in the dining room.   The second is suspended from the ceiling in the garage.   But either can be easily loaded into a truck for transport.

 

Something the size of 8 X 20 would need to be constructed in sections that can be separated.   Contiguous scenery would be hard to do, accepting some destruction/cutting at the section joints anyway.

My Gar Graves track is ballasted in.  Would it be salvaged if I unscrew it, pop it off and remove as much ballast as I can.

 

I built 20 modules a few lbs. each.

Everything is glued or fastened down so the modules can be stored vertically.

The subway tunnels generally are stored in the walk-in closet and don’t get much use anymore.

 

 

 

 

MODULES 5 & 6 SHOWN

 

You can save and reuse the Gargraves track and the ballast. Just don't try to straighten the curves reuse as they are. Some of my Gargraves track is on its third display.

 

Clem

I know how you feel. That's why I am working modular- regardless of skip's comment that modular layouts are all flat.

It would be nice SIRT if you shot a few more of the subway tunnel modules. I haven't seen pics of them for s while.

 I built a 4.5x9 with two "center beams" about 1/4" apart from each other. Should I have to move it, I will have to build some legs real quick (an hour?), remove the El line, mountain, and accessories(30 min), cut the remaining rails with a grinder(10min), clip turnout wires and undo all other wires at the terminal blocks(5-10 min), and cut the depth of the foam and plywood (15min). Ill then have two 4.5x4.5 sections waiting for c-clamps and track pins to mate with, two new terminal blocks for the rewire, and some thicker groundcover, or maybe even a water kit for filing the gap.