Legacy Conversion Lionel Pennsylvania Tuscan K4

You might want to invest in a drive block for this engine while they're still available.  So far, I've replaced three of them due to the internal gear coming loose and no way to fix it other than pull the wheels and try to secure it again.  Lionel's solution is a new drive block.  I have tried various fixes, but none stood the test of time.

This is the K-Line design, and apparently something about how they did that gearbox isn't up to the challenge, I baby my Legacy K4 as I don't want the same to happen to it.

@gunrunnerjohn posted:

You might want to invest in a drive block for this engine while they're still available.  So far, I've replaced three of them due to the internal gear coming loose and no way to fix it other than pull the wheels and try to secure it again.  Lionel's solution is a new drive block.  I have tried various fixes, but none stood the test of time.

This is the K-Line design, and apparently something about how they did that gearbox isn't up to the challenge, I baby my Legacy K4 as I don't want the same to happen to it.

I assume when you say drive block you mean an entire new chassis. Is that what you are meaning John?

Yep, the whole chassis with the drive wheels.  The internal gear comes loose and short of a complete disassembly, there's no way to attempt a fix.  It's just pressed on, and apparently the torque going forward to one side is enough to pull it off if you have excessive loading on the locomotive.  Like I said, I've seen it a few times, sometimes I could shim the gear over and press it enough to solve the problem, other times that wouldn't work and I'd replace the drive block.  I have one of the defective ones I saved that I'm going to see if I can figure out a fix again, if I ever get time to tinker again...

@gunrunnerjohn posted:

Yep, the whole chassis with the drive wheels.  The internal gear comes loose and short of a complete disassembly, there's no way to attempt a fix.  It's just pressed on, and apparently the torque going forward to one side is enough to pull it off if you have excessive loading on the locomotive.  Like I said, I've seen it a few times, sometimes I could shim the gear over and press it enough to solve the problem, other times that wouldn't work and I'd replace the drive block.  I have one of the defective ones I saved that I'm going to see if I can figure out a fix again, if I ever get time to tinker again...

So it isn't the gear the motor touches, but the one below it that is not reachable without removing the top gear first? I'm just trying to get an idea of what  the issue is and see if the chassis I have here is showing any signs of the issue.

It's actually the top gear that slides off it's knurled shaft.

@gunrunnerjohn posted:

It's actually the top gear that slides off it's knurled shaft.

Ok I will keep that in mind. I am swapping the motor as it is just a more cost effective route than getting the new flywheel and Encoder. I will also ask the customer if he would like to get the new block as $180 is a some what large chunk of money. Thanks for heads up.

Here are some updates on the K4. I drilled out the shell for the marker lights and drilled out the firebox door. Now it has the green markers and a flickering firebox. I installed a the motor with the encoder, RCMC, and mounted the firebox PCB. On the tender side other things I installed the LTC1 for the coupler and installed the new electrocoupler. I am unable to install the lower marker lights or the tender markers as the housings are solid and can't have a LED inserted. There are none available that aren't solid so for the time being it has just the front top markers. More to come.