Legacy SD90MAC 6-82759 starts when track power applied

the symptoms you describe sounds like it might not getting a   TMCC signal.  If you are not afraid to open it up check to see if the antenna wire is attached to the antenna and to the board.  Also check to see that everything else on the board is firmly attached.  Does it run correctly if run in conventional?

Marty

Thanks Marty. I don’t have a conventional transformer as I only have the Legacy Cab 2 system.
I do agree it seems to not be aware of the legacy signal though?

When you say "started up", did it actually start moving or only the sounds started up?

Only the sounds and lights.  I have the shell off the frame - what should I look for?

It was hit on the lower right side of the engine beneath the front truck looking at the box damage. One of the mounting posts inside the frame was broken off and two forward screws were somehow pulled out of the plastic because they are stripped. Here are some pics.

Actually, it looks like it was hit so hard that all the mounting screw connections to the shell were damaged. Two of them are completely broken away by the rear truck and were loose in the shell. Unbelievable.

The shell mounting damage is much worse than I thought. Looks like I can’t save it without replacing the shell regardless because once I got it off the frame and inspected it closely, I can see that really only one or two screws was holding the shell in place.
If the electronic issue is fixable, I might consider replacing the shell, but I’m not even sure about that now.

@Raven87 posted:

The shell mounting damage is much worse than I thought. Looks like I can’t save it without replacing the shell regardless because once I got it off the frame and inspected it closely, I can see that really only one or two screws was holding the shell in place.
If the electronic issue is fixable, I might consider replacing the shell, but I’m not even sure about that now.

Try reseating all the boards and connectors. Then see if it is  receiving a signal.

Ok I’ll do that. Thanks for the suggestion.

FWIW, I've fixed lots of shells that had broken posts, including some that had all the post broken.  I use either plastic or brass tubing of the proper diameter and JB-Weld.

Thanks John! If I can get it to respond then that would help a lot.

Any idea what diameter hole I would need for replacement post material? Maybe .125-ish?

Looks like 7/32” screws? So maybe 3/16” ID?

ThatGuy - that was it! This board identified below was loose! It was raised slightly and when I pressed on it, it reseated and clicked.

The locomotive features and movements work perfectly now. The other issue is replacing the screw mounting tubing.  
A new shell does show still available on Lionel’s website for $285.

Here it is temporarily parked after a full lap on my layout, forward and reverse, verifying all features (sounds, lights, couplers etc) work.
I’m waiting for the determination UPS and then I’ll go from there. The boxes are definitely heavily damaged as is the styrofoam shell and of course all the shell screw mounting posts need replaced.
But she runs like a champ.

🤷‍♂️

@Raven87 posted:

I’m waiting for the determination UPS and then I’ll go from there. The boxes are definitely heavily damaged as is the styrofoam shell and of course all the shell screw mounting posts need replaced.
🤷

Save some of the internal damage photos for the UPS claim.  If they deny it, then appeal it higher up (unless they changed that).  No excuse for that kind of package abuse.

John

Thank you Craftech John. Yep, I’ve already sent them to the UPS and they emailed me today that I should hear back from them in 1-2 business days.
Thank you!

IF you get a settlement from UPS, I'd put it in the bank and repair the posts!  As for what size they are, measure the broken posts.  I size the tubing to just tightly fit over that.

I’ve never had a claim with them before so I’m not sure how they will process it. My preference is to fix it now that I know operationally it works fine.

Most of the post ends are in pieces so those will need completely new pieces with new holes for the screws. Those will be a little trickier to redo I think?

The two large pieces below are the two posts near the rear that were completely snapped off the inside of the shell  those should go back on easily  

Not really tricker at all.  You just use the JB-Weld to secure the tubing at the correct spot and fill it with JB-Weld after it's attached and the JB-Weld cures.  I use JB-Kwik so I only have to wait about half an hour before I can proceed with the second step.  Once all the posts are in place and filled with JB-Kwik, I slip the shell on and mark where the holes go through the chassis hole by drilling a small pilot hole.  That insures the screw holes are in the proper place when I drill them.  Take the shell off to drill the full-sized holes.  The holes should be slightly smaller than the self-tapping shell screws, but not so small that the screws are having difficulty cutting their threads.   Then I drill my selected size hole and screw the self-tapping screw in.  If it's too tight, I enlarge the hole slightly and try again.  Once you've made all the holes and test-fit the screws, remove them and attach the shell.

@Raven87 posted:

The two large pieces below are the two posts near the rear that were completely snapped off the inside of the shell  those should go back on easily  

Maybe you can slip a metal rod (pin) inside for extra support before you glue them on.

John

Ah I see what you mean now.
I’ve never used the JB Weld product but that definitely makes a lot of sense now.
Thanks John!

How hard is it to disconnect the shell to make it easier to repair the posts?

Thanks!

There are only a couple of plugs between the engine and chassis.  Be careful and do NOT pull on the wires, you have to gently rock the connectors back and forth to work them out.

I bought these on Amazon specifically to reach in and remove connectors.  The flat end will grip just the connector and allow me to work the connector out without pulling the wires out.

HTS 164P5 6" Non-Slotted Locking Pennington Forceps

@Raven87 posted:

How hard is it to disconnect the shell to make it easier to repair the posts?

Thanks!

Depends on how many electrical connectors go to the shell. Pictures you posted seem to suggest 2-3 electrical connectors for lighting, so disconnecting all those should free up the shell from the frame

Thank you John and Michael! I’ll order those forceps tonight. They look very handy. 👍