Length of track and transformer

As you build your layout, get additional lockons and wire. Place a lockon every 10 tracks or so, and wire them back to the transformer. This will help distribute power evenly around the layout. Make sure the track is clean and free from rust and dirt. Clean all the track, and all the wheels and roller pickups on your trains with Naphtha. Make sure the pins in the ends of the track are clean and tight fitting.

Your 1044 transformer should run your trains on a nice sized layout, maybe 5x10 foot without any problems with good, clean track, clean wheels on your locomotive, and good power distribution as noted above. For a larger layout, you may want to consider some larger postwar transformers like the KW or the ZW.

There are no adjustments to 'raise' the engine. It should run perfectly if it is assembled properly.

The switches (turnouts) will cause a little sparking as the locomotive goes over it. That is normal.

Hope this helps,

Larry

A larger layout does not require a larger transformer. You may need a larger transformer if you add more load, i.e. bigger or more engines, passenger cars with incandescent lights, or more accessories. You may need to run more power feeds, and increase wire size for longer runs if you lengthen the track with the same transformer.

Thanks for both comment and it does help.    To TrainLarry …. the sparking on one of the switches actually causes the auto reverse process to kick in.    If I change from auto to fixed and go forward there is no problem.   Just ran some more tests and it seems like the switch is a little clunky as I eyeball it by pushing the engine through the switch.   Got two of them off ebay as used (manual) one works fine the other as I said not so much.   Took that switch out and put a straight in and all is good.   By nailing down the switch I did manage to relieve some of the sparking but not enough to eliminate the stop.   Thanks again. 

Tried something with switches!   Took pin nails out of the tracks closer to the switches.   Removed switches and put straights in - worked as expected.   Took bad switch and put in in the spot where the good switch was at and worked (that was not expected).    Took the good switch and put it in where the bad switch was and that worked (again not what was expected).   Did NOT put the tack nails in to hold track down close to the switches.  So I'm done - I can tell we are one day out of a better year 2021.     Happy New Year to all.   

John, through experience, there is only so much power a small transformer can push through a large layout. There are losses in the track and connections. What you are saying is that a small transformer can power a layout of infinite size - not so, sorry.

Larry

@flaming8 posted:

Tried something with switches!   Took pin nails out of the tracks closer to the switches.   Removed switches and put straights in - worked as expected.   Took bad switch and put in in the spot where the good switch was at and worked (that was not expected).    Took the good switch and put it in where the bad switch was and that worked (again not what was expected).   Did NOT put the tack nails in to hold track down close to the switches.  So I'm done - I can tell we are one day out of a better year 2021.     Happy New Year to all.  

"Sparking" isn't normal.  Do you have insulated track pins in the two rails that support the non-derailing feature?  If you have any doubt, please post a picture of the switch(es) clearly showing all 3 pins on each leg and everyone here will be sure to help.

FWIW, TrainLarry's advice above concerning additional wires every 10 sections of track or so is 100% spot on.

Steven J. Serenska

@TrainLarry posted:

John, through experience, there is only so much power a small transformer can push through a large layout. There are losses in the track and connections. What you are saying is that a small transformer can power a layout of infinite size - not so, sorry.

Larry

I guess I'm not familiar with infinite sized layouts. What I am trying to say is that with the same size block with the same track joints, with one being further away on a larger layout, that same transformer will suffice with the proper sized feed wire. If you only increase the size of the layout without changing anything else, then your reasoning stands. But a larger transformer would also not solve the problem without making any other changes.

I appreciate all the help and advise.   I've finished phase 1 if you can call it that on refurbishing and replacing broken cars and accessories.  Now playing with track layout etc. to get a feel for what is happening.   Learning is so much fun.   The wire nails I was using are small and fit nicely through the track connectors and was used only temporarily to keep the tracks from bouncing up etc. no problems - as the  the train moves around the track nicely.   I was lucky on testing out a layout earlier with those switches but than started rearranging - by connecting the two sides,   What I failed to realize until about an hr ago when I cut the original layout in 1/2 I loose power to the outer part.   Took me a while to figure that out as I kept thinking their was a short someplace.   Dahhhhh.    I did order another lockon.   Once spring comes I'll be moving the entire package to a more secure and permanent location in my upper floor of 2 level garage I have (my son's idea).   I've found a old season repari guy that only works on the late models.   He is going to fix the smoking unit - I don't feel comfortable taking the shell off and playing around with that as I don't want to create more problems.   Maybe it is easy enough. 

Steve

The short answer to your original question is a basic chemistry one:

Track is made of steel. Steel conducts electricity less efficiently than copper. Running the feeds (power and return) through copper wiring to distant points on the layout will allow a larger track plan.

Larger copper wire (smaller gauge #) conducts electricity better than smaller wire.  Use bigger wire, send the electricity further for the same voltage.

You didn't ask, but I will advise you that certain old MANUAL Lionel track switches will interrupt the middle rail (and therefore the power) to the un-selected route.  On a siding it will be a problem, unless you add some wiring.

Arthur - thx.  The wiring stuff you were talking about it helpful as I begin to look at accessories.   Had to get another water tower and whistling station.  Didn't come with wire or controller so I had to figure it out.    Thx  makes life a touch easier.   

I've been playing with wires for 70 years. If you have any electrical questions, please email me. Happy to help.