Lionel 0-8-0 with wireless tether...drawbar shortening?

I took a different approach. I reformed the engine drawbar which gains about 1/8". I then drilled new holes and cut a new slot in the tender drawbar about 1/2" back. The slot is now just under the front of the tender. To get it any closer you would have to make new drawbars to lower the position of the IR devices below the engine deck.

 

Pete

OK Gents,

 

You knew this was coming: Photo's Please.

 

Rick.

I have been looking at a 'take up loop" to close up the gap. You have to remove the IR tether wires and sensors. make a small wood form shaped like a loop then bend, or clamp the bracket to the wood form to shorten the brackets...

I have to admit there is a HUGE gap between the cab and tender...

J, I am not sure this would help with the tender drawbar as you newly made "hump" would hit the tender frame if it was above the drawbar. If the hump was below the drawbar it would either interfere with the sensor or tender axle, no?

 

Pete

BTW Rick, I should have asked. You do mean a TMCC 0-8-0, not Legacy. Conventional would not have a wireless tether would it?

My remarks are for an older TMCC 0-8-0 with the sensors below the drawbar.

 

Pete

There is room to put the hump down on the cab side, I was going to do this on Lionel K4 released in 2002, but I ended up selling it w/o modifying.

The 0-8-0 should work in the same manner. I will look at one tonight to confirm.

 

 

The Lionel scale, conventional 0-8-0's sure do have a wireless drawbar... and 4 chuffs per revolution, fan driven smoke unit... All the details of the TMCC/Legacy versions without command.

This is a great topic, since I have 2 that I'd like to shorten, as well.

Thanks,
Mario

I don't have pics of my engine but here is the tender drawbar.

 

 

If you look at your tender from above you should see the screw towards the rear of the car furthest from the slot. I cut a slot across the bar at that screw hole location. Then measured the distance that slot was from the original one and drilled new holes for the sensor spaced that same distance back.

You can see what that will do to the coupling distance by simply moving the tender drawbar aside and moving the engine drawbar tab to the front of the tender. 

I also shortened the engine drawbar about 1/8" by rebending it similar to what J was talking about doing above.

 

Pete

Here is how I did mine.

 

Steve C.

Great info Gents,

 

Corsair29, can we see a pic of the whole locomotive? Great weathering too.

 

Rick.

Sorry Rick, I haven't checked in for awhile.

Here is the engine, a little dusty.

J Daddy,I just cut the one that came with it and drilled a new hole.

 

 

 

Steve C.

Man-O-Man Steve.

 

That is nice, Thanks for the info and photo's.

 

Rick.