Lionel 6-28072 engine wiring diagram

If you only removed the connectors from the DCDS motor driver, you can plug them back into the new board. They are all unique so you can’t put them in the wrong place.

I you removed the connectors from some of the other boards as well, then you might need a schematic.

Pete

No schematic, but I'm sure we can help you get it back together.  Not a lot of plugs I would imagine that can be confused.

Did you do a direct swap?...or an upgraded driver such as ERR Cruise M?.....these locomotives are known for Oddesy speed control issues ,....( broken magnets, etc.) some pics of where you’re at on the replacement process will help us help you,...😉

Pat

This is a direct replacement board from Lionel. I included some photos but I don't know what you want to see lots of wires in the way

I see no photos, but Pete is right if you just unplugged the Odyssey DCDS.  You can't get the connectors wrong as there isn't two of the same connectors on the module.

@JimmyT posted:

This is a direct replacement board from Lionel. I included some photos but I don't know what you want to see lots of wires in the way

Not to get off the subject of your correct connector locations, but what made you replace the driver board?...ie; what condition are you chasing?.....the Oddesy system can have a couple things go wrong, including a bad DCDR, .......broken magnets, etc.........just trying to help you avoid getting back into the same problem,...usually, when Oddesy fails, we upgrade to ERR cruise M. This give you way better cruise control,......let us know how it goes,...

Pat

I replaced driver board because motor tested good when disconnected from engine. I wasn't aware of the problem with the magnets. also not familiar with ERR cruise M to late now I'm committed  New problem a couple of  wires breaking off of the 6 pin &  2 pin molex connectors  can you tell me where I can get similar molex plugs & pins so I can replace wires.

The black 6-pin connector is a Molex Micro-Fit 3mm connector.

All the other white connectors are either JST-EH 2.5mm connectors or JST-PH 2.0mm connectors.

Thanks for the attachment.

Lionel 6-28072  changed DCDR board and since 2 wires broke  off, I changed the wires on the 6pin Micro Molex on the DCDR board & 2 pin Micro Molex on the motherboard Loaded code 84 into the radio board. When I ran it on my test track using TMCC it ran 1 revolution around my oval and stopped. I started it up again  and made sure no spikes in amps. Lights bell whistle ,smoke & RS worked. In forward it ran for about 15 seconds  and stopped. Did the same when I tried it in  conventional. When it stops the lights stay and, no sign of a short.  Would you suspect a bad connection The wires from the 6 pin molex from rear rh 2 black are ground  2 red are hot. 1red & 1black go to motherboard. Seens like I'm losing power to the motor Can you suggest where I should be looking

Follow the two wires for the motor all the way back to the driver, looking for pinched/breaks or cold solder joints. What made you change the driver in the first place?...what condition or conditions were you attempting to correct?.....last time I asked, your reply was “ because the motor tested good when disconnected from the engine” in order to help you diagnose the issue, let’s go back to the first problem, what led you to replace the driver,.....we need the clues,...

Pat

The original problem Runs slow, stops, no smoke or sound. My lack of knowledge about what each board does made finding the problem more difficult. RoyBoy was good enough to enlighten me on what each one does.. GRJ  said the tender just does sound. All the motive power is in the locomotive. He was good enough to send a attachment photo of DCDS board w/the sizes of the differend  plugs  When tender is separate from locomotive  RS worked fine that left the engine which has 3 boards Motherboard, Radio board and  DCDS Ody. motor driver board & the motor.  One suggestion was to swap out the Radio board code 84. I also checked all wires for continuity. Disconnected the motor from the drive train (it ran fine on var. dc) I did not fine any binding in the drive train. So my conclusion was the DCDS board  I had no way to test the DCDS board, so I choose to replace it. I find the more I handle this locomotive wires break , I don't know if this is from age, weight of the engine, or me. I am in the process of changing  the 6 pin Molex plug & wires on the DCDS board & 2 pin Molex  on the mother board. I did check  the 2 wires from the motor to the DCDS board they look ok.  Thanks for the interest.

Still working on engine 6-28072 Lionel Hudson.  Purchased Cruise Commander M to repalce Lionel DCDS board.   While switching out the Lionel  DCDS board to CCM I find the J4 connector on my old board pin#1 jumped to pin #10  pins #5 & 6 went to marker lights  on the new CCM board J4 connector pins #1 & 2 I'm not sure where they go?

See attachment

First off, REMOVE THE BLACK WIRE ON PIN-10!  You do NOT want that ground going to the CC-M, it's very bad for it's health!

Next, you need the serial data going to pin-1 now.

You can use the marker outputs of the CC-M for your current marker lights.  I'd pull the black loop out of the existing connector that connects pin-1 and pin-10 first!  Then just pull the wire from pin-1 of the CC-M supplied connector and put it into the existing connector.  That wire goes to pin 24 of the R2LC socket to supply serial data to the CC-M.

Thanks GRJ for the quick response.  I assume pin 24 is probably one on the end but I see no #s   Is the #2 pin on the J4 necessary?   Question about R2LC  I have 3.that are marked.  Two have 08Z the other one R2LC08 (this one has a blown capacitor   Are they the same ? 

The R2LC's are all the same code, obviously the one with the blown cap may be suspect.

You don't need pin-2 on J4, that's a repeat of the serial data to provide buffering.  If you run into issues with serial data line loading errors, then it's handy to use that repeated serial data to go to the sound board or steam tether.

I seem to be having trouble identifying the #24 pin  on the R2LC

Check this out.  Tip:  Don't solder to the R2LC, but rather to the socket or under the socket.  If you have to change the R2LC, you don't want wires soldered to it.

gunrunnerjohn I appreciate your all your help Thank you