Lionel Chessie T-1 6-18011 Mods

Here's an update as to where I am currently with upgrading my Chessie Steam Special.

I have the ERR AC Commander installed in the forward part of the tender. I am using the MTH tether and 10 pin connector GRJ suggested. But I opted to modify the board to get it to fit in the original place on the tender. I opted to put the RailSounds board on top of the R4LC board. You can see in the second picture that I tried to put it on top of the speaker, but I couldn't get the body on. I plan on adding clips to the coal load so I can make the load removable.

I wanted to have a coil coupler on the tender so I got a Mohawk Hudson truck and modified the frame to fit. I think I'll hook this coupler to the "Front" couple on the Commander board, because I want to use the rear one for the Aux tender.

I removed the 6v constant voltage regulator that was used for the front headlight and firebox light. In its place I added the Super-chuffer to the engine and wired everything in. You can see the grain-o-wheat bulb for the cab light. I also added a small circuit I got off eBay for a flickering firebox. I have the LED hanging behind the motor in between the brushes.

More to follow tomorrow.

Chris - the mods are looking great (and very similar to my updates).  

C&O Allie posted:

Chris - the mods are looking great (and very similar to my updates).  

Thanks Allan. I'll have more this evening and my future plans with the Aux tender.

Here's the continuation of yesterday's post.

Here's an inside view of the tender with the body on. As I said yesterday, my plan is to add clips to the coal load in case I have to get to the volume control.

I started on the Aux Tender yesterday as well. The first thing I did was remove the IR sensor and drawbar from the front truck assembly. To make up the space I added a washer in place of the drawbar. I had a manual coupler that was sent to me by accident from Lionel. This is exactly the correct length I needed to attach to the front truck and the distance looks to be correct. 

You can't see it but where the coal conveyor would be I cut out the opening for the 4 pin plug and PCB I removed from the Chessie tender. My plan is to somehow use the original 4 wire tether and connect the two tenders. I'll probably end up drilling a hole as low and centered as I can on the OE tender body. This is only going to be for operating the rear coil coupler and the rear backup light.

Now, I have a few questions for anyone who wishes to answer...

1. The Mohawk tender originally has/had the railsounds in it. Since I removed the IR sensor and drawbar, Is there a way of operating this system via the horn and whistle buttons on my CW-80 transformer (conventionally) since I can't use my TMCC remote to activate them? Also, Does the IR board have to be installed for it to operate?

2. In the photo below, there are 2 lights on the rear of the Aux tender. Is the upper one a constant "on" and the lower one a MARS light?

Thanks in advance. This is all the updates to this point.

C&O Allie posted:

Chris - the mods are looking great (and very similar to my updates).  

Allan, Did you leave the marker light on the rear of the tender or did you remove them? The photo of the aux tender doesn't have them.

Chris,

I removed the marker lights from mine since the prototype didn't have them.

Allan

Chris,

In regards to the Mohawk tender's RailSounds, is it the 1.0 version from the 1990 or the 3.0 version from 1998?

John will probably correct me if I'm wrong, but the 3.0 version probably just needs hot, ground, and serial data wire connections to a TMCC receiver. You could use the ERR dummy locomotive controller board to function that RailSounds board.

phillyreading posted:

If you need to find more information on the Lionel T-1 look up the Lionel number 18006 as the Chessie engine is an exact copy of the Reading Lines T-1, just has a different Lionel part number and paint job to the best of my knowledge. In real life the Chessie System either bought or rented the Reading Lines T-1 2101 and re-painted it for the Chessie System and gave it a tune-up or minor overhaul as well.

Lee Fritz

Ross Rowland owned the 2101 having purchased her from a scrap dealer in 1975.  He restored her for use on the American Freedom Train.   When the Chessie Steam Special and the later Safety Express were brought about Chessie and Rowland entered into an agreement to run these using 2101.  Hence 2101 was used until the roundhouse fire in 1979 damaged her beyond repair.  Ross cosmetically restored her to her AFT colors and a traded her for C&O 614.  614 powered the Safety Express until they realized that the 614 was garnering more attention than the Safety Express. 

Mikado 4501 posted:

Chris,

In regards to the Mohawk tender's RailSounds, is it the 1.0 version from the 1990 or the 3.0 version from 1998?

John will probably correct me if I'm wrong, but the 3.0 version probably just needs hot, ground, and serial data wire connections to a TMCC receiver. You could use the ERR dummy locomotive controller board to function that RailSounds board.

It's the 1998 version 6-18064 not the 6-18009. From what I read from the instruction manual for the engine and tender the whistle and bell will still activate as in conventional mode using the buttons on the transformer. Just no tower or crew talk. So, unless I remove the baffle for the speaker I have no room in the tender for anymore trons.

Great work. I am not as patient when it comes to all these electronics. I will be having the same performed on my Chessie and Reading T-1 soon. I am going to have Henning's perform my upgrade.

Latest update on my Steam Special. I believe I have finished all the necessary wiring. I have the coil coupler and rear light on the AUX Tender connected to the 4 pin connector. I then took a leap of faith and drilled a hole in the back of the Chessie tender. Its barely larger than the diameter of the tether wire. Then I connected the tether to the AC Commander for the rear coupler and rear light. Although this wasn't the ideal situation for the tether wire, this was the only way to make this work. If I came from under the frame the rear coupler would have hit the wire preventing it from negotiating the curves.

I am now up to the point of programing the Cab 1 to the engine and seeing if everything works as advertised. Our first car show of the season is this coming Saturday. I have lots of Honey-Dues that have to get done in the next few days, But I'm going to try and get this thing programmed this week. With everything modified this is now an engine and dual tender combo. Painting of the Aux tender will happen sometime this summer. I have the paint, I just need to get a good quality airbrush.

Much thanks to GunRunnerJohn for his electronic and wiring advice. Also, much thanks goes to C&O Allie for his help with answering questions about his Aux Tender. More to come hopefully later this week.

Thank you to the rest of you that provide kind comments. Its greatly much appreciated.

I was able to run the engine yesterday for the first time. It is a learning process for someone like me that has never used TMCC. Once I got the Cab 1 figured out, I was able to test all the functions. The only Oops was the headlight and reverse lights were backwards. I double check my wiring with the directions for the AC Commander and it was correct. The directions has the 2 lights backwards. But swapped the wires for the lights and everything works as advertised. Super-chuffer is awesome! With the body on the engine, it looks like the prototype when puffing. I'll try and get a video up by the end of the week.

I found out the RailSounds in the Aux tender will not work by itself conventionally. But, this is no big deal. Don't need it. Might just sell everything internal. Its much heavier than the Chessie tender.

Odd that the headlights are backwards, but I'd check the documentation again.  I just wired up two of the AC Commanders, and the lighting matches the documentation for me.

gunrunnerjohn posted:

Odd that the headlights are backwards, but I'd check the documentation again.  I just wired up two of the AC Commanders, and the lighting matches the documentation for me.

This is the instructions I used. I put a binder together with all of the necessary paperwork. Maybe I just read it backwards.

That's the same version of the document I use for the AC Commander.  All of the similar ERR TMCC boards use the same mapping for the lights and smoke on the 7-pin terminal block.  Note that the AC and DC commander differ only in the first two pins next to the antenna.  For some odd reason, they removed the chuff input and duplicated the antenna connection on the terminal block.  Of course, that moved the PGM/RUN switch connection, an unneeded duplication and omission.  However, in all cases for all of these products, from pin 3 common through pin 7 feature, the mapping is the same.  Since this is hard-wired on the motherboard from the R2LC, it's pretty inconceivable to me that the two light outputs could be reversed.  I've installed dozens of these boards, multiple copies of any specific type.  That's always been true for all of them for years.

AC Commander I/O Connections

Cruise Commander I/O Connections

Cruise Commander Lite I/O Connections

DC Commander I/O Connections

You do very nice work.

Frisco Chris 1522 posted:

You do very nice work.

Thank you very much!

Here's the link to the video I did this afternoon. The power supply for the railsounds in the aux tender melts down at the end.

Chris,

Sounds great!!  Here is your video embedded so users don't have to go to Youtube directly.

Thank You Allan! Your a Gentleman and a Scholar!

I didn't get an answer from anyone on my earlier post. So hopefully the second time is a charm.

In the picture below, there is 2 lights on the back of the tender. The upper one appears to be "on" steadily. Is the lower one a MARS light or a flashing white light. I'd like to mod my Aux tender to match. Thanks in advance.

Jayhawk500 posted:

I didn't get an answer from anyone on my earlier post. So hopefully the second time is a charm.

In the picture below, there is 2 lights on the back of the tender. The upper one appears to be "on" steadily. Is the lower one a MARS light or a flashing white light. I'd like to mod my Aux tender to match. Thanks in advance.

Why not try and contact Ross Rowland for the information you are looking for?  The present website he has for C&O 614 is co614.com

My guess would be that whoever made the decision to double up on the backup lights did it for the extra visibility it created.  Good luck with your quest.

On many models, one is a backup light and one is a marker.  I don't know about the real thing...

Thanks for the replies. Took Allegheny48's suggestion... Email sent to Mr. Rowland.

Now we wait.....

I need a little help from you all... Referring back to my video after I completed the mods, Does anyone know the color name of the gray paint on the front of the boiler? I have all the other colors to repaint the aux tender, but I'm adding class lights to the boiler front and I need to touch up the gray paint.

Also, I never got a reply back from Mr. Rowland or anyone from co614.com.

Thanks,

It may be easier mixing up your own paint to closely match what is already there.   On the real 2101 it appeared to be a silver graphite of sorts with a bit of gray to tone it down.   Hope you can find the right paint.   Too bad you haven't heard back from Ross. 

gunrunnerjohn posted:

On many models, one is a backup light and one is a marker.  I don't know about the real thing...

Back in the days of steam backup and marker/classification lighting varied depending on the railroad.  Very few roads that I know of had built-in marker/classification lights on the back of tenders or even used them at all.  The only road I can think of that had tenders with built in classification lights was the Pennsy and those were the ones used on the Duplex engines and the long distance tenders that the J’s used.  I feel that the model train manufacturers have perpetuated a myth of sorts by including them on almost every steam engine they offer.  Most all tenders were equipped with classification light brackets on the rear in the event the engine's use might require them.  The backup light was used for reverse running and switching out freight cars when the engine was in use on a local which served industrial sidings.  Some were built into the rear of the tender while others were bracket mounted on the tank top. 

I have just completed steps 1 and 2 of the repainting for the transformation of the Mohawk tender 6-18064 into a Chessie Steam Special Aux tender 2101-A, like C&O Allie's. Prior to repainting the rear, I filled in the holes and depressions where the marker lights were with Scotch weld. Then I repainted the rear black and have the Chessie Yellow on the sides using the Scalecoat brand of paint. Next up will be the B&O Royal Blue on the upper part of the tender just below the coal bin. Once that's dry, I'll paint the GN Empire Builder orange for the 2 stripes. I'm taking a day to let the paint cure before moving on to the next color. I'm using a laser level on the engines tender to figure out where I need to apply the 3M Fineline tape to separate the colors.

 I had an epiphany last night realizing I could have done a lash-up with the engine and aux tender after watching a YouTube segment about the UP Aux Tender on EricsTrains. I wish someone would have enlightened me to using a Mini Commander EX to control the rear coupler and backup light before I drilled the hole for the tether wire. But live and learn, right?

Since this tether hole is small, I should be able to fill this in and paint it so it's not too noticeable. The Mini EX was shipped this morning and should be here any day. 

More to follow....

Chris,

This is looking great!!  Here are a few videos I took of my consist a couple of weeks ago at the Austin Area Train Show.  Can't wait to see your consist!

(My 5 year old pops in in the middle of my consist with the controller (she was in charge on that run))

Chris,

I am looking forward to seeing your finished product. 

When I have time to improve my skills, I hope to be able to do the same as you and Allan have done.  I also hope to be able to do the tender up as it appeared behind AFT #1.

Thanks for posting your progress!

Henry J. posted:

Chris,

I am looking forward to seeing your finished product. 

When I have time to improve my skills, I hope to be able to do the same as you and Allan have done.  I also hope to be able to do the tender up as it appeared behind AFT #1.

Thanks for posting your progress!

No problem. Even though I'm a total novice to the 3 rail community, I do have history posting progress reports online for projects I've done on classic cars. My only hope is someone will be able to benefit  from what I post for any project they may be working on. If there's something someone needs me to explain, or how I did something, just let me know.

Henry, I just looked at your profile...and like you I spent 24 years in the Coast Guard as a  HH-3F Avionicsman, C-130 Avionicsman, and then finally a HH-60J flightmech. All the while, fixing avionics equipment, being a Primary QA Inspector, right seat qual'd for startups on test flights, and then finally, being hired back as a civilian Fire Chief where I once few out of on SAR cases. You might say I have the CG in my blood now. I now have a total of 32 years of service to the same organization.

Jayhawk500 posted:

Henry J. posted:

Chris,

I am looking forward to seeing your finished product. 

When I have time to improve my skills, I hope to be able to do the same as you and Allan have done.  I also hope to be able to do the tender up as it appeared behind AFT #1.

Thanks for posting your progress!

No problem. Even though I'm a total novice to the 3 rail community, I do have history posting progress reports online for projects I've done on classic cars. My only hope is someone will be able to benefit  from what I post for any project they may be working on. If there's something someone needs me to explain, or how I did something, just let me know.

Henry, I just looked at your profile...and like you I spent 24 years in the Coast Guard as a  HH-3F Avionicsman, C-130 Avionicsman, and then finally a HH-60J flightmech. All the while, fixing avionics equipment, being a Primary QA Inspector, right seat qual'd for startups on test flights, and then finally, being hired back as a civilian Fire Chief where I once few out of on SAR cases. You might say I have the CG in my blood now. I now have a total of 32 years of service to the same organization.

Chris,

Thanks for your service!!!  I actually hit that mark myself back in February.  Each year it gets a little tougher to keep at it.   But hey, it pays the bills!

I really enjoy posts that show what people in our hobby are capable of doing. And you are doing a great job!

Again, I can't wait to see the final product!

Enjoy!

I just finished the upper portion of the body in the B&O Royal Blue. It is much darker than what is in the picture. The camera changed the hue. The middle picture is more the correct color.

See the blues do match. Can't say much for the yellows though.... The Aux Tender is a hair brighter. I'm hoping the orange will tone it down a bit. But then again we're comparing 24 year old colors to freshly painted colors.

The orange is next tomorrow.

So, what does everyone think.... Is the rear of the tender the same color as the upper portion below the coal bin? I can't decide if it's black or the B&O Royal Blue. To me it looks blue, but please weigh in. I emailed the guy taking care of ThemeTrains.com in hopes he is still in contact with the person who took the picture.

I looked at the burned out tender and the lower rear light was removed. But, then again the tender looks pretty rough.....

I have opted not to put a second light on the rear. I do have the gearbox and hand brake wheel to go on the back.

Here is how I'm transferring the lines from one tender to the other. I use a laser level. My lines may fall a bit different from C&O Allie's Aux Tender, so the positioning of the lines on the tender will differ.

Chris,

Great job!  I suggest you put the tenders on a piece of track in case the flanges are different size.  I realize on mine I did not make my orange stripe thick enough (did not take it down far enough) now that I see your pictures above.

Also, great use of a Laser!

C&O Allie posted:

Chris,

Great job!  I suggest you put the tenders on a piece of track in case the flanges are different size.  I realize on mine I did not make my orange stripe thick enough (did not take it down far enough) now that I see your pictures above.

Also, great use of a Laser!

Thanks for the "likes" and the kind comment. Point taken on the having the tenders on the track. I usually have them sitting on a piece of 30" Fastrack.  I did it this way, so I could "bend" the cars slightly so the laser was more easily seen for the camera. I'm too lazy to dig out a few pieces of curved track.

Just a quick update....I got the GN Empire Builder orange on yesterday. I have some touching up to do since the rivets on the body kept the tape from sticking. But, overall I very pleased with the progress thus far.

I'm going to mount this on the left rear side of the Aux Tender.  As of right now the wheel turns. Hopefully I can get it mounted, painted, and keep it turning. After all, we'll need to set the brakes periodically.

I removed the wire tether between the 2 tenders and reconnected the rear coupler and light in the engines tender.  I did get a bread board mounted to the chassis in place of the old motherboard, in anticipation of the Mini EX arriving from ERR.

More later....I have a couple of projects I need to finish today.

Jayhawk500 posted:

Just a quick update....I got the GN Empire Builder orange on yesterday. I have some touching up to do since the rivets on the body kept the tape from sticking. But, overall I very pleased with the progress thus far.

 

I'm going to mount this on the left rear side of the Aux Tender.  As of right now the wheel turns. Hopefully I can get it mounted, painted, and keep it turning. After all, we'll need to set the brakes periodically.

I removed the wire tether between the 2 tenders and reconnected the rear coupler and light in the engines tender.  I did get a bread board mounted to the chassis in place of the old motherboard, in anticipation of the Mini EX arriving from ERR.

More later....I have a couple of projects I need to finish today.

Looks Great!