Skip to main content

Replies sorted oldest to newest

I have what appears to be the same truck in my 70's era MPC diesel.  My truck was missing the pin that appears to be a folded over flat pin that is on the left side of the main pivot point pin.   That caused my truck to flop all over the place when picked up. 

I took a very thin piece of metal and just bent a right angle on it and drilled a 1/8" hole in  the base and used a standard pop-rivet to attach it to the truck.  Works perfectly, truck no longer flops around.

If you are missing the actual pivot pin, I would use the above suggestion. 

Mike Wyatt posted:

The back one (right in picture).  EXCEPT, pictured is the powered truck- I am missing the pin in the non-powered truck. 

The truck that Doug shows above is indeed the correct non-powered truck for the 6-18567.

trnluvr posted:

If you have access from the bottom you could use a stove bolt slid in from the bottom and then put a e-clip on to hold it in the truck. then put it on the frame and use another e-clip.

Unfortunately, you really don't have easy access to the underside due to the way the truck is constructed. In production, the truck mounting stud is affixed to the top plate with a star clincher. In later steps, the entire truck frame gets staked in four places to the top plate, effectively blocking easy access to the underside of the top plate.

gunrunnerjohn posted:

The back pin is pressed in, I suspect you can't just buy that pin.

Sure you can buy it -- 8030-22 (or 600-8030-022). It's been a relatively common part for almost 50 years now.

For a bush fix, glue or epoxy the stud in place. Once dried, attach to the loco frame with a 671M-22 E-Clip.

The proper fix is to carefully separate the truck frame from the top plate (not easy to do without cutting or bending something) and then properly attach the stud to the top plate using a rivet press and star clincher. Then re-assemble and re-stake the truck frame to the top plate.

TRW

Cool, I never looked, but I figured it would be hard to find the pin.  I like Chuck's solution, should be easy for someone with a press.

Penn-Pacific posted:

I bought one of these back in '98, I still run it and love it FWIW, Here's the Lionel exploded view of that loco 

Unfortunately Lionel doesnt have the part, but it appears Brasseur's has one;

https://www.traindoctor.com/se...ionel/8500to8800.php

( scroll down to 8563-025 )

YIKES!   8563-025    8563-25    Truck Complete With Cherry Switch and Roller Black Sides    $48.80

I think I'd go for the pin, it's a lot cheaper.

Attachments

Images (1)
  • mceclip0

OK- having seen the posts (THANK you everybody!!) I can see how this was, originally.  I can also see that I would have to take the entire assembly apart- and have to press in the replacement stud as well.

SO-I am going to use a piece of threaded rod, cut to approximate length- it seems there is plenty of clearance above and below).  Then I'll use e-clips under and above the platform to set the length.

A crude drawing:

Plain Non-Powered Truck

Attachments

Images (1)
  • Plain Non-Powered Truck

Done.  I changed slightly from the above plan- and used hex nuts above and below the chassis/ frame, and above as well as below the truck housing.  I used LocTite on all threads- and hopefully that will hold- if not I'll re-engineer.


Again- thanks everybody for helping me understand how this thing goes together, none of the pictures I could find showed me how the stud was mounted.  I didn't realize that, once the truck was assembled- no access!!

Add Reply

Post
×
×
×
×
Link copied to your clipboard.
×
×