Lionel Dwarf Signal #148

TedW posted:

Ted   Again, FWIW, and to demonstrate Chuck’s point, here is the FT insulated section(darker grey ballast) followed by a 10” straight, signal, 10” straight.  The outside rail connectors on the underside of the straights have been(must be) removed.  And the track pin removed and gap increased with a dremel to assure no contact will occur on the last section.  This triggers properly, every time.

 

 He said he bought the insulated track sections. If so, there's no need to cut gaps, remove pins, or remove ground busbars. It's set up that way already when you buy the insulated sections...

Train Nut posted:

TedW posted:

Ted   Again, FWIW, and to demonstrate Chuck’s point, here is the FT insulated section(darker grey ballast) followed by a 10” straight, signal, 10” straight.  The outside rail connectors on the underside of the straights have been(must be) removed.  And the track pin removed and gap increased with a dremel to assure no contact will occur on the last section.  This triggers properly, every time.

 

 He said he bought the insulated track sections. If so, there's no need to cut gaps, remove pins, or remove ground busbars. It's set up that way already when you buy the insulated sections...

Yes you’re right on the insulated sections, but I was demonstrating(Chuck Sartor’s point) how to extend the length of the insulated block with regular 10” straights.  Thus the extra steps mentioned.  

I'm having the same issues with the Lionel #6-83173 Single Signal Bridge. Same setup, using the accessory activator pack. Wired the same way. Green stays on constant and red flickers as the cars go over the section.

I don't think a relay would work in this application. Would be additional wiring if it worked. If the red light is flickering, the relay would be chattering. I guess clean wheels are an absolute must.

I wire to my switch machines 

I wire to my switch machines but use the dwaft's with pin style bulbs. I have researched and found that the newest 148 has a pegboard. I bet if you power dwarf using DCv w/yellow sensor trip wire to insulated block, everything will function as advertised, providing track and wheels are clean. 

@ted K posted:

the number is 6-12883 - i tried the fast track activator section of track, wired the dwarf signal to aux power - green light came on, then i took an alligator clip from the outside insulated rail to the other outside rail between the isolators and the light turned red - removing the wire the light returned to green - no flickering - so it is the connection from the insulated rail to the other outside rail that is not effectively transferring through the truck on the car - will try cleaning the wheels and the track - but is seems that a "positive" connection between the outside rails is what is needed for it to work- also will try a longer heavy train to see if that helps

ted K, did this ever get resolved? I just installed the same exact dwarf signal as per the instructions using the activator pack and have the same issue. Curious if you ever got it resolved. Thanks.

hi - i cleaned the trucks and it worked - also it seemed to work if i ran a heavier engine - but am satisfied that it seems to one working ok - i am not sure  but i understand that there are different types of drawrf signals - did lionel change the internals at some point/ not sure but at least i got its working

@ted K posted:

hi - i cleaned the trucks and it worked - also it seemed to work if i ran a heavier engine - but am satisfied that it seems to one working ok - i am not sure  but i understand that there are different types of drawrf signals - did lionel change the internals at some point/ not sure but at least i got its working

Glad to hear it. Thank you!

I installed a few # 12883 signals on my layout last year and have the same problem.  I knew that mine were wired correctly and came to the conclusion that they are not engineered very well.  Part of the Lionel charm, along with 3-rail track...

In days of yore, the 153 contactor, a spdt switch, provided power directly the the green and red bulbs depending on switch position.  My guess, the new dwarfs have a circuit board which directs power to the LEDs.  The green usually works OK.  When the red is supposed to turn on, the green doesn't actually turn off.  Rather, the voltage is turned down to dim the Green so it's not visible.    As the resistance in the insulated rail circuit increases (i.e. dirty rail, etc)  the turn down the Green suffers and the turn on the RED is spotty.  You get all kinds of variations of the anomaly depending on the resistance.

One solution, as suggested,  is to eliminate the insulated rail and wire it to the switch machine.