Skip to main content

Track cleaning discussions abound on these forum threads. Adding more to the mix that's already here, author Bob Keller, in Lionel's Track and Power 2014-2015 booklet recommends cleaning track with citric based solutions. Lionel's advisory on page 46 states:

"We recommend using an all-purpose cleaner with a citric base cleaner because it does not degrade the metal rails nor does it cause poor electrical connectivity between the rails and the wheels of the train. Alcohol-based cleaners should be avoided since they tend to degrade the electrical connectivity of your trains."

Do you agree or disagree? What's been your personal experience?

Original Post

Replies sorted oldest to newest

I disagree. But then I have all Atlas solid nickel silver track, and also have DCS, Legacy, and TMCC on the layout. I have used denatured alcohol or lacquer thinner to clean both the outside rails and the center. I have found that ANY of those "citric based" cleaners always leave a residue on the rails, which tends to degrade the DCS signal (obviously Lionel could care less about THAT, however).

Hmmmm.....

I suppose they would know best, but I've been using 90 weight, proof, percent or whatever rubbing alcohol to clean tracks, power pickups, and wheels for a few years now without issues. I even clean brushes and commutator faces with the stuff and the motors run just fine.

 

But then most of my locos are Marx, not Lionel. Maybe Marx locos can handle the "hard stuff" better than Lionels?

I have used rubbing alcohol to clean my track since returning to the hobby 25 years ago.  I'm not a chemist but, I would argue that alchohol is one of the few cleaning properties that doesn't leave a residue.  I have had absolutely no connectivity problems either with the tube track on my permanant layout nor with the Fastrack I use for our two Christmas tree layouts.

 

Curt

I don't appreciate when a manufacturer restricts the use of a chemical on their product without a detailed explanation of why. I don't find that manufacturers representatives are well informed about what they are advising.

I have not noticed any issues with isopropyl alcohol used for cleaning track, but if Lionel would elaborate on the chemistry involved, I would listen.

Originally Posted by handyandy:

Hmmmm.....

I suppose they would know best, but I've been using 90 weight, proof, percent or whatever rubbing alcohol to clean tracks, power pickups, and wheels for a few years now without issues. I even clean brushes and commutator faces with the stuff and the motors run just fine.

 

But then most of my locos are Marx, not Lionel. Maybe Marx locos can handle the "hard stuff" better than Lionels?

I have done this since the days of my first train set. Dad started it, and I carried it over to "N" scale, now "O". Never a problem. In fact a problem I had of a slow down in an area, and were if I parked the engine there, very erratic start-up. Ran some 90% alcohol with paper towels, never had a problem since. I just got done selling some "O" gauge tubular track over 30 years old that I regulary cleaned with alcohol. Not a speck of rust on rail, just discolorization on the connecting pins which I cleaned with, you got it, Alcohol.

Originally Posted by josef:
Originally Posted by handyandy:

Hmmmm.....

I suppose they would know best, but I've been using 90 weight, proof, percent or whatever rubbing alcohol to clean tracks, power pickups, and wheels for a few years now without issues. I even clean brushes and commutator faces with the stuff and the motors run just fine.

 

But then most of my locos are Marx, not Lionel. Maybe Marx locos can handle the "hard stuff" better than Lionels?

I have done this since the days of my first train set. Dad started it, and I carried it over to "N" scale, now "O". Never a problem. In fact a problem I had of a slow down in an area, and were if I parked the engine there, very erratic start-up. Ran some 90% alcohol with paper towels, never had a problem since. I just got done selling some "O" gauge tubular track over 30 years old that I regulary cleaned with alcohol. Not a speck of rust on rail, just discolorization on the connecting pins which I cleaned with, you got it, Alcohol.

I think the grade of steal used now made by in China may not be as good as the old made in USA.

Originally Posted by cjack:

I don't appreciate when a manufacturer restricts the use of a chemical on their product without a detailed explanation of why. I don't find that manufacturers representatives are well informed about what they are advising.

I have not noticed any issues with isopropyl alcohol used for cleaning track, but if Lionel would elaborate on the chemistry involved, I would listen.

Pretty sure Mike Reagan did a video on this a while back. He also recommended WD-40 for improving something on the track (power, signal or ?). I don't remember if he explained the reasons or not? I will see if I can find it and post back here if I find it.

Originally Posted by rtr12:
Originally Posted by cjack:

I don't appreciate when a manufacturer restricts the use of a chemical on their product without a detailed explanation of why. I don't find that manufacturers representatives are well informed about what they are advising.

I have not noticed any issues with isopropyl alcohol used for cleaning track, but if Lionel would elaborate on the chemistry involved, I would listen.

Pretty sure Mike Reagan did a video on this a while back. He also recommended WD-40 for improving something on the track (power, signal or ?). I don't remember if he explained the reasons or not? I will see if I can find it and post back here if I find it.

I would like to see that video. I use WD40 to remove corrosion on old post war trucks. It's also cheap as far as how long a can lasts.

Originally Posted by ogaugeguy:

       
Track cleaning discussions abound on these forum threads. Adding more to the mix that's already here, author Bob Keller, in Lionel's Track and Power 2014-2015 booklet recommends cleaning track with citric based solutions. Lionel's advisory on page 46 states:
"We recommend using an all-purpose cleaner with a citric base cleaner because it does not degrade the metal rails nor does it cause poor electrical connectivity between the rails and the wheels of the train. Alcohol-based cleaners should be avoided since they tend to degrade the electrical connectivity of your trains."
Do you agree or disagree? What's been your personal experience?



       


Seems denatured alcohol would leave no residue while the citrus cleaner would leave something.
Last edited by Lima
Originally Posted by cjack:

WD40 means "water displacement" formula no. 40 so I'm told. Anyway, that feels ok for track. If it weren't so expensive, I'd use Caig Industries P5 contact cleaning and preservative.

BYW, doesn't that citrus stuff have water in it? 

The wipes I use say noncorrosive and leaves no residue. They are called cable cleaner and are made by BioChem Systems. It's good enough for the telecommunication industry and happens to also be a fantastic track cleaner.  www.cableclear.com

Last edited by Dave Ripp.
Originally Posted by Dave Ripp.:
 

I would like to see that video. I use WD40 to remove corrosion on old post war trucks. It's also cheap as far as how long a can lasts.

Sorry, it's either in a video with something else or I dreamed it (don't think that happened though). I have been back and forth on their youtube channel (pretty sure that's where I saw it) and so far can not find it again?

 

Maybe someone else has seen it and has a better memory than mine as to where it was. I'd like to see it again also, not finding it is bugging me now. 

 

I think it was actually Goo Gone that he was using (or recommending) along with the WD40.

 

I have Atlas track and have been using 91% isopropyl alcohol on it like a lot of other people.

Last edited by rtr12

Actually, Lionel says not to use, "Alcohol-based cleaners". They don't say not to use straight alcohol. I suspect because some of those "alcohol-based cleaners" have things in them that get left behind on the track after the alcohol evaporates.

 

I've used denatured alcohol to clean steel and nickle silver track for many years and never had a problem with residue.

 

 

I actually had a problem with FasTrack and Denatured alcohol on the Christmas Layout I set up in a local store. I cleaned the track and suddenly I lost power to one section an hour later. I took it all apart and cleaned the pin with a towel and then it worked again

 

Not sure if it was the alcohol, or stuff washed into the connection by the alcohol, but it was a pain

 

Next time I will just stick to Simple Green and Steel Wool. It cleans everything

Last edited by cbojanower
Originally Posted by John Pignatelli JR.:

 I also would like Mike Reagan to explain why, if it seems to be a better solution I will use it, if not I will go with the DA application, also AGHR uses it with good results on a few thousand feet of track.

Mike is no longer the tech guy at Lionel.  In fact since he has moved into an upper level management position, all valuable tech knowledge will soon leave his brain and settle on the floor never to be used again

Phil is now the new Mike

Originally Posted by Len2:

Actually, Lionel says not to use, "Alcohol-based cleaners". They don't say not to use straight alcohol. I suspect because some of those "alcohol-based cleaners" have things in them that get left behind on the track after the alcohol evaporates.

I've heard this also and I like others would like to know their exact reasoning .

 

I prefer to use, LifeLike Track Cleaner. So much that I've been using it for over forty-years. I clean my track at least three times a week without any adverse reaction. The bottle label reads, "Safe, Non-Toxic".

Years ago Lionel marketed their own track cleaner, it was alcohol based.

I do know that methanol will corrode aluminum but as for straight isopropyl on steel, brass or nickel track it's pretty inert. Alcohol while being hygroscopic quickly evaporates from the track taking any minute traces of water along with it.

I recall someone last year from Lionel claiming that alcohol was corrosive to track because of it OH component...

 

 

Jerry

Political correctness for kids?

Parents see their child with a bottle of alcohol (rubbing, denatured, etc) and they freak.

HE?SHE HAS ALCOHOL! (screams and calls the doctor).

Using a 'Citric" based solution makes them think of Citrus, Oranges, Fruit, and Anita Bryant..all kid friendly stuff.

IMHO, how can you go wrong with good old Rubbing or Denatured Alcohol, i.e. ALCOhol, as in Alco Diesels...pun intended!

I have used denatured alcohol without issue. But I can recommend a citrus-based cleaner called De-Solv-It as the most effective cleaner of any kind for cutting grease, oil, tar, oil-based paints or anything else. It is organic and biodegradable. I have not thought to use it on the track because I thought it would leave a residue or corrode, but I'm gonna give it a go on a small piece and see. 

In Illinois, during the winter, use to add a can of HEET to gasoline tanks after fillups. Removing water and keeping gas lines from freezing. Water and Heet being heavier than gas would settle on the bottom of tanks and Heet remove the water through absorbtion. As to being corrosive to aluminum, I'm not aware, nor is it warned on cans to not use.

As to using alcohol to clean my tracks today or in the future, I have no qualms.

Originally Posted by Gary Graves:

I have used denatured alcohol without issue. But I can recommend a citrus-based cleaner called De-Solv-It as the most effective cleaner of any kind for cutting grease, oil, tar, oil-based paints or anything else. It is organic and biodegradable. I have not thought to use it on the track because I thought it would leave a residue or corrode, but I'm gonna give it a go on a small piece and see. 

 From the web...

 

"A citrus oil-based cleaning product will not cause corrosion or rust. Such products are made from the oil found in the orange peel, rather than the pulp and juice of the orange.

Some products contain citric acid (found in the pulp and juice of oranges), so read the label to find out exactly what you’re getting. If the product contains citric acid, or is a water-based product, wash and dry the saw or other tool after cleaning and wipe the tool with oil or a water-displacement product to prevent rust."

I use Kendall large alchohol prep pads, $7 for box of 200, last long time, do a lot of cleaning:

 

41eDWQv6OUL

 

Great for cleaning track, pickup rollers, de-gunking wheels, anything else. 

 

I agree with the sentiment expressed here that you need to take manufacturer's recommendations with a big grain of salt.  They are usually trying to sell you something.  At the very least, they are looking out for their corporate interests.  

 

When something is as tried and true as alchohol for cleaning train gunk, (been used for the last 100 years for cleaning tinplate track and wheels), it's pretty hard to second guess it.

 

 

 

Attachments

Images (1)
  • 41eDWQv6OUL

Add Reply

Post
×
×
×
×
Link copied to your clipboard.
×
×