Loco not moving

I suggest you post the exact model of engine you're having the problem with so we can better help you.

@gunrunnerjohn posted:

I suggest you post the exact model of engine you're having the problem with so we can better help you.

Sorry about that, it’s a AC4400, and the box does indicate that it’s a Proto 2 model, if that helps.

@Nu2Oscale posted:

Sorry about that, it’s a AC4400, and the box does indicate that it’s a Proto 2 model, if that helps.

An MTH Item Number might be more help.

@Hot Water posted:

An MTH Item Number might be more help.

20-2787-2

Check the DCC/DCS switch

@Nu2Oscale posted:

20-2787-2

I realize you are new to this so I'm going to point out some websites and a process for information. I am not saying don't ask here, I'm saying, in the interest of giving you the best help- self help is also a part of the total picture.

#1 use the MTH product website. All you have to do is google 20-2787-2, and the very first result is likely the MTH product page. https://mthtrains.com/20-2787-2

#2 under the support tab of the product page, is the manual for the engine.

https://mthtrains.com/sites/de...ction/20dl18507i.pdf

#3 Being a Protosound 2 engine, or in fact, most MTH PS1, PS2, and PS3 engines require a functioning battery or super capacitor energy storage inside the loco for proper conventional operation. The manual covers a fairly common sense test to see if this system is working as intended. You simply power the engine, wait for the sounds, and then cut power to the track. If the sounds instantly cut off- the system is NOT working. If the sounds keep going all the way to shutdown- that's a good indicator the battery or energy storage is working as intended.

#4 additional tips: Power the engine for at least 30-60 seconds and allow the full engine startup sounds to complete. This also serves to charge up the battery or capacitor. Ensure you completely drop power and do so long enough to be detected as an intentional change to switch from neutral to forward. Ensure when power is cut- the engine sounds continue for several seconds on into shutdown sounds. If the sounds are not continuing to play and cut off suddenly- that likely indicates a battery failure (this is a PS2 engine).

Also, the battery in this engine even being rechargeable- has a limited usable lifespan. Even sitting not used, the chemical battery degrades with time. You might need to replace it or minimally charge it and see if it holds a charge.

Last- also be aware of the separate website for the MTH Parts and Sales division, which ALSO has a ton of good info.

https://www.mthpartsandsales.com/

In particular, click on the link for "Helpful Stuff"

Have you checked 3 rail/2 rail switch is set correctly to 2 rail setting?

@Vernon Barry posted:

I realize you are new to this so I'm going to point out some websites and a process for information. I am not saying don't ask here, I'm saying, in the interest of giving you the best help- self help is also a part of the total picture.

#1 use the MTH product website. All you have to do is google 20-2787-2, and the very first result is likely the MTH product page. https://mthtrains.com/20-2787-2

#2 under the support tab of the product page, is the manual for the engine.

https://mthtrains.com/sites/de...ction/20dl18507i.pdf

#3 Being a Protosound 2 engine, or in fact, most MTH PS1, PS2, and PS3 engines require a functioning battery or super capacitor energy storage inside the loco for proper conventional operation. The manual covers a fairly common sense test to see if this system is working as intended. You simply power the engine, wait for the sounds, and then cut power to the track. If the sounds instantly cut off- the system is NOT working. If the sounds keep going all the way to shutdown- that's a good indicator the battery or energy storage is working as intended.

#4 additional tips: Power the engine for at least 30-60 seconds and allow the full engine startup sounds to complete. This also serves to charge up the battery or capacitor. Ensure you completely drop power and do so long enough to be detected as an intentional change to switch from neutral to forward. Ensure when power is cut- the engine sounds continue for several seconds on into shutdown sounds. If the sounds are not continuing to play and cut off suddenly- that likely indicates a battery failure (this is a PS2 engine).

Also, the battery in this engine even being rechargeable- has a limited usable lifespan. Even sitting not used, the chemical battery degrades with time. You might need to replace it or minimally charge it and see if it holds a charge.

Great stuff Vernon….thank you for pointing me in that direction. To borrow a line from the movie, ‘Sling Blade’…”it ain’t got no gas in it” on my part…I’m feeling rather embarrassed that researching the mfg. site never crossed my mind…I’ll use the excuse that I’ve become conditioned to expect lousy support for products these days.

@Mark V. Spadaro posted:

Have you checked 3 rail/2 rail switch is set correctly to 2 rail setting?

Yes sir, that was the first thing I checked.

The engine started and the problem is it shuts down immediately when he tries to operate it in conventional.  Your friend probably used DCS.  You need a new battery.  If this is a PS-2 5V engine a 9V will work to test.  If it is a PS-2 3V it needs a 2.4V battery.  They are rechargeable for both models.  G

I know MTH designed their locos/tenders so that the least expense in mold making and assembly would lower price, but getting to the battery on MTH stuff can be a chore.  Easier access might destroy esthetics, but in general servicing or troubleshooting would have been a help.

@GGG posted:

The engine started and the problem is it shuts down immediately when he tries to operate it in conventional.  Your friend probably used DCS.  You need a new battery.  If this is a PS-2 5V engine a 9V will work to test.  If it is a PS-2 3V it needs a 2.4V battery.  They are rechargeable for both models.  G

Reading your post, yes, your explanation of the problem seems much more accurate.

Also, after digesting some of the information that Vernon shared, I recall reading something about, if the sound shuts off, immediately after cutting throttle/power, instead of trailing off, it was almost certain a dead/bad battery.

My local hobby shop is able to supply me with a Proto3 upgrade, said it would bring the loco up to modern standards, for roughly $225….is that a route worth looking into ?

@Nu2Oscale posted:

My local hobby shop is able to supply me with a Proto3 upgrade, said it would bring the loco up to modern standards, for roughly $225….is that a route worth looking into ?

Presuming you just need a battery, you'd be wasting a lot of money.  When you get done with the upgrade, including the time to install it, you'll have the same capabilities as you do now with PS/2.

@gunrunnerjohn posted:

Presuming you just need a battery, you'd be wasting a lot of money.  When you get done with the upgrade, including the time to install it, you'll have the same capabilities as you do now with PS/2.

Thanks….that’s what I was wondering, if there were any extra ‘features’…being aware, of course, that the hobby shop is trying to push the sale.

They probably seem more profit potential in a $200 upgrade kit sale than a $10 battery sale.