I am in the process of building a small (2.5 ft by 16 ft) switching layout. I am having a hard time figuring out how to use the Caboose throws on my Atlas turnouts. I have the OCR video but it talks about 3 rail turnouts so it is not completely helpful. The Caboose directions say to use a # 54 drill to drill a hole in the extension of stretcher bar to accept a pin attached to the bottom of the throw arm. However, the stretcher bar has a raised block at each end. If I drill into that I have to mount the throw much higher than the track. I can always cut off the raised block on the bar and then drill a hole in the shortened bar, but before I do that I'd like some guidance. How do you guys ( and gals) connect Caboose throws to the Atlas switches?
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Pete, I have used Caboose throws, both O and HO size for O (all 2 rail). I have never tried to use the pin into the throw bar...not sure it would stay put but never tried it. Cutting the bar down should work it if you want to try. I usually use a brass rod to connect the Caboose throws to whatever type of turnout I am using....Atlas, Roco or hand layed. The HO throw is a little smaller and looks closer to scale than the lartger o scale but the throw is a little shorter,
Peter,
Not sure if this is what you are asking but I'll take a shot at it. I pulled two ties off of some scrap pieces of Atlas 2 rail track and used them to extend the ties on either side of the throw bar. I then removed the little tab over the hole on the throw bar. I then mounted and glued the caboose throw on the extended ties (head block) and inserted the pin from the caboose throw into the now exposed hole in the throw bar. If you are using a roadbed you will need to raise the extended ties to that same level. I cut the same material I used for my roadbed and glued that down, then glued the extended ties to it. I have not had any problems with the caboose throw pin coming out of the hole in the throw bar.
Since my initial installation of the caboose throws, I have replaced the plastic extended ties with wooden ones. The plastic ones were fine, but you will have to fill in the hole where the rails ran, with putty or something, then paint.
Hope this helps!
Dave
A small piece of copper wire, (one of the strands of a #14 wire) A more secure attachment of a 208S throw. Ross switch. I've seen these wood ties chiseled/dremeled down. On occasion, there is a low hanging longer car, that will hit these ground throws.
OR: I use piano wire for a manual throw attached to the middle of the throw bar. The travel of the slide switch is .005" over the point distance needed.
I found attaching a wire to the end of a throw bar can give it the wiggles. Lateral slop.
The throw wire is bent up, twisted 90 degrees and over the tie then "Z" bent into an enlarged hole throw bar.
The bare wire has no shorting effect.
The d.p.d.t switch also performs correct frog polarization.