MTH Premier S2 fef stops dead when using remote

I have the exact same engine and had to replace the ps2 5 volt board, they have to be replaced with a PS 2 3 volt bolt if there still available. I do have one but you have to also change the speaker, they make a PS 32 boards but only asc tech's can get them and they are wider then the older ps2 5 volt boards . I would take the engine boiler top off and see what boards are in the engine , I'll bet it is a ps2 5 volt which use's a 8.4 volt battery not a 2.4 volt battery unless the board was changed to PS 2 3 volt then it would use a 2.4 volt battery..

send me an email I would be glad to fix it for you, they are a great running engine with great sound ounce upgraded to a PS 2 3 volt board

take the engine cover off and take a picture of the board , ill bet is has 2 copper strips on the back side which would make it a PS 2 5 Volt board!

Alan

Biglou,

First, do not open the engine unless the following doesn't resolve the problem. Please read on...

It's possible that the engine originally had a 5 volt PS2 board which failed and was replaced with a 3 volt PS2 board. That would account for the 2.4 volt battery appearing to be "jury-rigged" into the engine.

It's also possible, since you appear to be operating conventionally with an MTH infrared (stick-shaped) remote control, that the battery is the issue..

If the above is true, it's possible that the battery, which is very important when operating conventionally, is simply too weak to operate the engine properly.

Since everything about this engine's genesis is suspect, I'd avoid using a battery charging port, if this early PS2 engine even has one, since it's unknown if the port is the correct one for the battery or even connected to the 2.4 battery. Therefore, I suggest that you proceed as follows.

First turn off the engine's smoke. The switch should be on the tender or, perhaps, the engine (if you have the engine's manual you can check). Then place the engine on the track and turn up power to 12-15 volts or so. Let the engine sit for at least 4 hours and see if things improve.

Good luck!

If you can post a picture of the inside of the tender it would help.  But it does sound like a weak battery.  IF there is a rectangular plug on the tender you can charge it with an MTH charger if you have one, or disconnect battery and charge right into it.

The whistle killing the engine in neutral is a little disturbing.  That can be a bad speaker or wiring close to chassis of speaker.  IF the speaker is grounding out, or shorting that will cause the board to shutdown.  Many of the other symptoms are battery related.

If you don't know how to trouble shoot some of these issue I would send to a tech to go through the upgrade and figure out the issue.   G

George it is the exact same engine that I have that you helped me with ,were is a small board inside the tender and mine had the 8.4 volt battery. the board you had said was a distribution board. the guy said but some people don't listen that the battery inside the tender looked to him like it was JURY RIGGED, that why I was not sure what board he had in it. mine had a ps2 5 volt that was bad and his is the exact same ID number . maybe his battery is bad or weak or maybe it's the wrong battery?

What do You think George!

Alan 

PS George also there is no jack under the tender to charge any battery with. I'm looking at mine right now.

If it is running on a 2.4V battery it sounds as if it has been converted to PS-2 3V.  Many FEF 5V boards failed.  I have replaced many.  He can look at the speaker to see if it is 4 ohm vice 16 ohm.

IF it was upgraded, the installed could have put in the charge port harness.  Eitherway you can charge the battery with MTH charger.  G

I guess ... if if if it is a 5 volt board , the  voltage regulator would be mounted to the chassis with 3 larger wires.   Yellow, red & black.  Sounds to me like the engine has been upgraded   with the kit . 3 volt

It's too bad you don't have a tiu and dcs remote for resetting.

Are both center rail rollers picking up current??

I cannot thank you gentlemen enough for all the terrific advice you've given me. And, in such a short time. It turns out the the engine was upgraded by a certified MTH dealer. The gentleman, (and a true gentleman), that I purchased the engine from gave me all of the details. The service center is not open today, but I'll be in contact with them tomorrow to discuss options. I was told that the engine was upgraded to the latest MTH system. Not exactly sure yet what that amounts to, but once I know, I'll post the results on this thread. I am currently letting the engine run in neutral, (of course), at between 12 and 15 volts, as per Berry's suggestion. (Can't see any harm in doing this)? Just to see if something happens. "G", (authorized service rep), wrote of his concern with the horn/speaker shorting out. I'll open the tender again, should the charge of 5 or hours not help, and see if any speaker wires are the problem. The advice on a speaker change will be discussed with the service center, to see if they indeed addressed this. However, I won't go too far with me working inside the tender, I'm competent, but not qualified to take this work too far.

The really good news is that, with this upgrade, I might be able to use an MTH Commander Controller. That said, I'm more than likely going to get into full DCC, so it may not matter.

Again, you guys are great, hope I can return the favor some day. Lou

Be aware that PS2 engines do not operate under DCC. Only PS3 engines do. Your engine is a 3 volt PS2 engine.

Also, the DCS Commander, while a decent choice for operating MTH HO engines under DCS, is a poor choice for doing so with O gauge PS2/PS3 engines.

If you plan to operate using DCS, I suggest that you purchase a copy of The DCS O Gauge Companion 2nd Edition.

Evedrything you need to know about DCS and a whole lot more is all in MTH’s “The DCS O Gauge Companion 2nd Edition", available for purchase as an eBook or a printed book at MTH's web store!

Barry,

Thanks for this information. My intentions are to purchase a DCS remote control system that includes a DCS track interface. So thank to you, the Commander Controller is out for sure. I'll pick up of a copy of the DCS O Gauge Companion before I purchase the DCS system. I'm currently recharging the FEF engine using a remote and an MTH Z-750 transformer. I sometimes confuse the AC transformer and the acronyms, DCC and DCS, but I'm definitely not using DCC. I'm pretty new to this stuff so thank you for setting things straight. Best, Lou

How about using a BCR-2? It's a capacitor that recharges in 1 minute at 10 volts on the track. For details go here

I put a BCR in my FEF when I upgrade it and works great . Good luck with your engine repairs and let us know how you made out!

Alan

I do not believe that I can use a BCR-2 because the engine now uses a 2.4v battery, do to the PS2 upgrade. I am going to get BCRs for some older PS1 engines that I've acquired.

As for the engine, I did recharge the battery for 6 hours. It did not work. Engine still conks out when using the horn, or when going forward or reverse for a few seconds. Could be the speaker or something else shorting it out? I'll let all know what the techs have to say about it. 

Biglou,

I do not believe that I can use a BCR-2 because the engine now uses a 2.4v battery

Actually, the BCR2 is the direct replacement for the 2.4 volt battery.

Barry, thanks again. That's  good news. When I order the BCRs I'll order a BCR2 for the UP FEF Northern. You've given me a real education in the last 24 hours. I'll be sure to order the DCS O Gauge Companion 2nd addition. Best, Lou

As promised, I'm updating all on the FEF engine fix. I had the great pleasure of meeting David Minarik Jr. of Mercer Junction Shoppe. He was the guy who, (did indeed), update the engine to a PS2-3v, in the first place. He diagnosed the problem over a phone call. It was a crimped wire in the speaker. I probably did it when checking things out? No big deal. He fixed it and added a BCR2, as suggested by Berry. The engine runs great. David ran the engine for over 20 minutes on the store's fantastic layout, to make sure that all was working. He ran the engine using a DCS remote. I'm now convinced that I'm going this route.

David and all the staff at the train store are terrific. I don't normally plug like this, and I'm not sure if this is the proper venue to do this, (forgive me if this is a faux pas on this site?), being new to all this. But I feel that these guys and the store at Mercer Junction are well worth checking out.

Thank you everyone for educating me and for all of the support with my FEF engine issue. As stated earlier, I hope that I can be of some support to all of you, in the future. Lou

Lou,

Thanks for providing all of us with 'the final solution'.  Its always good to hear what the fix was AND that everything turned out just fine.

Way to go Dave & crew at Mercer Junction - you're the greatest!

Best,

Dave

There's nothing wrong with giving a thumbs up for a job well done.  Nothing wrong with giving a thumbs down, either, if you're will to risk a defamation lawsuit (while truth is a defense, the cost of a lawyer to disprove it in a trial is enormous)

In nearly 60 years of various modeling, I've yet to find a negative in this hobby. Again, thanks to all. Lou

Lou,

Thank you for the kind words!  I really enjoyed talking with you yesterday!  

There was nothing you did wrong with the speaker or wire.  I think we just had one go bad.

I hope you make it back to see us sooner than later.

Dave

My wife and I will be back for sure. Thanks much, Lou

Barry, as per your suggestion, I purchased a copy of The DCS O Gauge Companion. It's great. It's easy to follow and simplifies what, for me anyway, is a complex system. I recommend this book for anyone new to MTH, and I'm sure this book is great support for even the seasoned modeler. I also purchased MTH's DVD "Video Guide to DCS". Continued thanks for all your input. Best, Lou