My O-gauge White Pass collection (Shovelnose 3d prints now for sale).

Three:

First, get some 1/4 inch painters tape: I use the green type but the blue works well, too.  the thinner tape is easier to work into exactly where you want to put it than broader tape.  Use it to mark the line you want to mask, use a plastic tip (I use the top of a Bic pen) to press the edge tight.  Then come back with broader tape to cover the whole loco, just making sure that tape overlaps this slightly.  

 

Second, after you spray the next coat (of a different color) remove the masking before the tape starts to dry.  If you wait until it dries the tape can pull paint along the edge away - at least that has been my experience.  Now, you have to be careful, and think, removing the masked from a still-wet loco, both in what you touch and how, and it how you pull off the tape so a piece does inadvertently touch anything, and to be sure you take breaks to inspect and clean your fingers if you have paint on them (you will) before touching the loco or holding it again in unpainted places so you can pull the tape away from painted areas, but . . . 

 

Third, if you have or can buy a couple of cheap loco shells, you might practice on them.  

 

I discuss my masking and painting of Warbonnet - about the most difficult paint scheme I know to home-brew, here:

https://ogrforum.com/t...57#30713143880655557

Nice collection Tom, brings back memories for sure.  I lived in Juneau and I would take my two boys to Skagway and hike either the Chilkoot Trail or the White Pass tracks.  This is before they started running trains from Skagway to Lake Bennett, I'd say the early 1970's.  We used to camp by the tracks and crawl over the high trestles.  That's when I was a bit younger of course.  My boys and I hiked the Chilkoot Trail 4 times.

 

The history of the White Pass RR and that of the Chilkoot Trail make for some interesting reading.  Many books are available on the subjects.

 

All my photo's of these trek's are not digitized or I would post them.  I will try to scan some to post.

 

Steve, Lady and Tex

 

 

White Pass is 3 foot gauge correct??? Maybe the reason not a lot of standard gauge models made. I'd like a WP Alco in On30 myself.

Nice to see someone else repainting locos. Follow lee's advice....pretty much the same as I do but I use Tamiya 1/4" tape for the separation line and low tack wide masking for cover.  Burnish the tape with your nail.  I use my digital calipers to make line guides to keep things lined up. 

Good luck!

 

I used Tamiya tape and my calipers to lay out this paint scheme....

 

Hopefully this isn't a topic hijack.

 

For Lee or Dave, or anyone else, after you have primed the shell and are ready to paint the primary colors, how do you tend to decide to:

 

1) tape off areas for painting separate colors directly on the primer coat, or

 

2)spray one color, then tape and spray the second color which on part of the shell, goes on top of the first color?

 

For example on the other thread Lee linked to on his Santa Fe locomotive, it looks like Lee used both methods. It looks like the cab (to be painted red) was masked off when the silver was painted, but on the tender, everything was painted silver, and then the red paint on the bottom section was painted  on top of the silver paint.

 

Dave, on the CSX engine above, for the grey, blue, and yellow colors, in what order did you mask and paint?

 

With no practical experience, I'm think taping off lines looks like a real pain to do, so choosing a paint sequence that reduces the amount of taping might be beneficial, or do you want to minimize the layers of paint where colors are painted over other colors?

 

 

I think the main worry here is the fine details. Too many coats can serve to muddy things up, or so I hear. The Krylon paints I use are paint plus primer so they tend to coat really well. I think the best way to handle it is from light colors to dark colors to get the paint right with the fewest number of coats.

What about a White Pass & Yukon Rotary Snow Plow?

 

Andrew

I have thought about doing a rotary, and I will. But one of the coolest aspects of White Pass rotary #1 is that it was modified to all metal. And those MTH rotaries are wood sided. I know my gp-40 isn't prototypical. But I want to do a really sweet model of rotary #1. I'm friends with the former rotary fleet pilot and I would love to show it to him one day. Heck maybe I'll make two and give him one.

 

Two places you can see "real" ex WP&W equiptment in daily operation in the lower 48 is in Tennessee at the theme park Dollywood are two operational restored steamers and in the far eastern San Diego Califoria desert in Plaster City is the US Gypsum operation that runs the last ordered but never delivered to White Pass diesels. US Gypsum may be the last non tourist narrow gauge in the states.

Tom, in your original post, it looks like to me that you are sitting in cab# 73 of the White Pass & Yukon' Mikado Type" steam engine (oil tender of course).

 

Two days ago I just took delivery of the LGB/Aster (brass) White Pass & Yukon, Cab#73 in G scale.  It's a beauty with full sound and smoke.  My photography skills aren't the greatest and I think there is a post on this forum on taking and posting pictures so I should give it a try.

 

 

Yes sir, I have spent a lot of time in skagway and have had the pleasure of seeing #73 steam past my house a few times a week. Plus, everyone knows everyone and I think most people in Skagway have their photo hanging somewhere on #73 or #69. I used to go climb on the boiler of derelict #195 and wave at trains as they headed up the pass.

 

Don't forget the grave of the infamous "Soapy Smith" and the Red Onion Saloon. 

 

Steve, Lady and Tex

If you ever make it out to the old gold rush cemetery in Skagway, don't touch Soapy's grave marker. Let's just say he's still not a popular character among the locals.

Awesome topic.  My son absolutely loves watching the episode of Mighty Machines featuring the White Pass Railroad.

Okay, I got most of the engine taped up.

 

Now I just need to tape up the front of the hood and I can't seem to get it right.

 

I want this to be perfect but it's kicking my butt. Any ideas on how to get the design perfect around these lights? Is it possible?

Tom

 

I noticed that the Train-Station of Mtn Lakes, NJ has stock on the Lionel

rendition of a White Pass caboose. Sorry-no pic. Typical blue & white version.

Believe they're part of Fathers Day sale

 

Floyd

Thanks for letting me know. Those blue and white colors were only used for a little while by White Pass. And I can't bring myself to shell out 70-90 dollars for it. Seems a little high. The original and current colors are green and yellow and all of their current cabooses are straight red.

 

Tom, here are some photo's, circa early 1980's, I took of Skagway and White Pass RR equipment.  The B&W photo's I bought in the Skagway museum.  Back then there was a "bunk house" you could stay for $5 a night.  Usually someone had a guitar or harmonica and everyone joined in singing old railroad songs.

 

Steve, Lady and Tex

 

 

Looking forward to seeing your final version of the engine when done good work so far.

 

I have always wondered why Bachmann has done WP&YR in HO and G but never there very popular ON30 scale???

 

They have done nearly every other road ever produced in ON30 but never anything in WP&YR

You would think that the sets would sell well to all the tourists on the cruise ships when they come to town. The ON30 train sets are a perfect match for the Dept 56 and Lemax buildings that many people collect of which I would think many would visit Skagway on a cruise???

 

The Bachmann ON30 line produces many of the cars equipment that the WP uses.

Sure would be nice  to get some of the shovel nose diesels, the rotary plow etc.

http://shop.bachmanntrains.com...=index&cPath=487

 

 

CDS did a lot of the decals in dry transfer for WP, S scale fits the ON30 cars best.

 

 

More than 400,000 tourists ride the White Pass every summer. You would think that someone would want to take advantage of the notoriety of the busiest tourist railroad in the U.S. I have found some passenger cars I think I could modify to work for my collection. 

Pennsylvania Limited Coach 6-35274

 

As far as my gp-40 goes I was having such a hard time trying to get the front end design perfect that I have just decided to free hand my taping job and hope for the best. 

I saw this White Pass bunk car in G gauge and thought it looked cool.

 

 

So yesterday I purchased a Lionel Canadian Pacific bunk car off of ebay.

 

I'm trying to decide if I want to paint it blue to match my tunnel car, brown to match the passenger cars, or keep it red and just remove the decals.

Thank you for the photos Steve. I always enjoy seeing cool White Pass and Skagway pics. 

A friend of mine snapped this pic as we finally came into view of Lake Bennett after hiking the Chilkoot Trail.

 

 

Man I was happy to see that lake. 1 mile away a hot lunch was waiting at the old Bennett depot, and after a few hours rest our train departed back to skagway.

Finally finished taping the engine and got up the courage to paint it. There are a few rough edges and a couple areas on the yellow in need of touch up, but I'm really excited about how it turned out.

 

 

I could never get the front hood design to be exact so I just freestyled it. I think it turned out pretty good.

 

 

 

It's a little off, but I think I can make some slight adjustments when I do the pinstriping.

Really nice job Tom.  That's going to be one nice White Pass engine.  Great job, can't wait to see the finished product.

 

Steve, Lady and Tex

You could cover the sides of the MTH plow with sheet styrene to simulate metal.  That's a neat paint scheme.  Don't forget the tender!

That's a great idea about the styrene. I'll have to think about it. I know there's a thread on this forum (https://ogrforum.com/t...-mth-rotary-snowplow) about modifying the MTH rotaries for more prototypical speeds. Maybe an O-gauge Rotary #1 isn't too far off.

First things first. My best friend, who lives in Juneau, mailed a birthday present to my son for his birthday. He now has his own White Pass train too.

 

He loves his new train and even got a White Pass engineer's hat to go with it.

 

I have been pretty busy for the past few weeks so I haven't had any time to work on my engine, but I finally did a little work on it today.

 

 

This was my first time ever using dry transfers and I was pretty nervous, but I think it looks pretty good from a distance...

Up close is a different story. I got carried away with the burnishing tool and it accidentally slipped under the transfer paper and scuffed the transfer.

 

 

The bottom of the last s in pass is messed up. Does anyone have any ideas on how to repair it? I am excited to finish this engine and take the whole set for a few spins around my track.

This is a question for Dave or Lee or anyone really. My green edges where i taped off the yellow feel a bit rough. Any ideas for smoothing these out?

Fix it???  A few options.....

Use another set to replace the damaged 'S'.  Use some clear tape, apply iy over the bad S, burnish it and pull it off....should remove the letter.  Cut a S from new sheet and apply.

Or use a Sharpie black marker and touch it up!!!

 

Hint for dry transfers. A alternate method of appling them is to apply the dry transfer to clear decal paper and then apply them to the model like a regular decal. I know this voids one of the reasons to use dry transfers.....decal halo.....but when you have a place that is hard to apply a dry transfer or an area with lots of detail to cover it is a good option.

Thanks Dave. I think I might try the sharpie route first and see how it turns out.

Alright, I finished the decals, at least for now.

 

 

 

Dave, that sharpie trick worked great! I used it to fix the s and a couple of tears where I pushed the decals into the crevices. Thank you, thank you, thank you.

 

 

 

 

Now I need to find some pin striping tape.

Looks great to me!!! Nice work....Congrats!

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

I was able to take my white pass set around a loop a few times today.

 

 

 

 

I still have to work on the bunk car and the caboose but they will be sporting the White Pass name soon enough. Also today I got a Lionel ore car in the mail. One more item to work on. I think I'm going to have a total of four ore cars for right now. After I finish the cars I have I will start to think about passenger cars.

 

 

Modified Lionel ore car. I plan on making 3 more of these.

I just realized that MTH's tank car lettering is wrong. I wonder if there was an alternate used that I don't know about, or if it's just wrong.

 

 

The h should be the tallest letter. Not even with the rest of the tall letters. The engine and the ore car have the correct lettering.

It looks like the new MTH White Pass Snow Plow has the same lettering as the tank car.

 

 

 

All Lionel lettering is correct on their White Pass cars. Ozark Miniatures decals are correct as well.

 

 

 

 

I applied the pinstriping to my white pass gp-40 today.

 

 

 

I still have to do a little touch up here and there. My last big project on this engine is the number boards. I am thinking about painting the boards black and then applying a dry transfer over that. I wonder if I could use a sharpie maybe?

Just finished painting my caboose. I was thinking about applying some dull coat on top of this. This is an Aristo Craft caboose with a coat of Krylon Banner Red gloss paint. The white pass decal is from Ozark Miniatures and the Thunderbird decal is from http://www.doityourselflettering.com I plan on adding some number decals and a lighted drumhead, but this looks good for now.

 

Nice collection.  The thunderbird came out very good.

All taped up.

 

 

Not finished yet, but this will do for now. I still want to put some dry transfers on it, paint an orange stripe at the top of the car and paint the ladders black.

 

"Unless you've got power!" -Whitey, Back to the Future Part II

 

 

Here's a close up of an often overlooked part of my White Pass collection.

 

I Don't know if I want to leave the flat car as Lionel or turn it into a White Pass flat car. I love this container, a great shot of the sawtooth mountains that stand high above the White Pass canyon. 

 

I got my lit drumhead from Dan's Drumheads and got it installed on the back of my caboose.

 

 

Just a little video of my hand detailed White Pass cars.