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I didn't see which side the whistle was on because of the safety popoff valves blowing. Where would the whistle be located?

I noticed that the whistle "smoke" appears to be coming from something adjacent to the safety valves. Must admit that I don't remember exactly where the whistle is located on prototype Class A locomotives, but I thought it should be closer towards the cab, i.e. NOT adjacent to the safety valves.

@Hot Water posted:

I noticed that the whistle "smoke" appears to be coming from something adjacent to the safety valves. Must admit that I don't remember exactly where the whistle is located on prototype Class A locomotives, but I thought it should be closer towards the cab, i.e. NOT adjacent to the safety valves.

I don't remember where it was on the 3D printed shell from the York photos I took. I'll probably have to gander a look at my photos when I get home. I'm sure BigJim or someone else may be able to get an answer on this. Just curious where it is.

I do know BigJim had messaged Ryan about the turrets(if I got that term right) were not supposed to be covered on most models, and only for a short period of time was it worn on 1218 I think he said if I got all that correct from my memory.

OK, problem solved. I just looked at my Class A book, by Ed King, and the whistle is on the Fireman's side of the steam dome, right behind the safety valves. Thus, the whistle is pretty much, "adjacent to the safety valves", being about a foot behind them. Lionel got it rights far as the location, but the sound is certainly NOT an N&W Hooter!

@Hot Water posted:

OK, problem solved. I just looked at my Class A book, by Ed King, and the whistle is on the Fireman's side of the steam dome, right behind the safety valves. Thus, the whistle is pretty much, "adjacent to the safety valves", being about a foot behind them. Lionel got it rights far as the location, but the sound is certainly NOT an N&W Hooter!

Sorry, jumped the gun!  Didn't catch your reply before I posted mine.

Yeah, when I get mine I am definitely changing to the right whistle. I still can't believe the PRR Texas debacle on them having the incorrect whistle. Right after is when they made every engine have the chance to have all sorts of whistles. I think we had a lengthy discussion on that thing and how they somehow said it was correct(don't know what planet that was).

Sorry, jumped the gun!  Didn't catch your reply before I posted mine.

Hey!…..the photo you posted is copyrighted material, …..I have the same book, and it’s heavily copyright protected,……delete your photo, and post a link or similar for people to view it!……if the mods catch it, you may get banned for good!!……just trying to save your hind end….

Pat

@harmonyards posted:

Hey!…..the photo you posted is copyrighted material, …..I have the same book, and it’s heavily copyright protected,……delete your photo, and post a link or similar for people to view it!……if the mods catch it, you may get banned for good!!……just trying to save your hind end….

Pat

Wow, I did.  Thanks for the heads up.  That image was posted to an open source online, so I don't know how that happened.

Wow, I did.  Thanks for the heads up.  That image was posted to an open source online, so I don't know how that happened.

They might not have permission either, but on here, it’s a major no-no,……if it even smells like it might be copyrighted, don’t copy it and post it, ….best thing to do is provide a link as to where others may see it,…….I’m not a forum cop, but I did stay at a Holiday Inn Express last night ,……😁

Pat

Demos with Dave Episode 21, around the 21 minute mark shows the whistles (assuming this is the same lineup as the production model).  The first two selections are hooters.

This is correct - I think RickO's speculation that the user chose it because they liked it is correct. The whistles sounded absolutely incredible in the speakers they have loaded on it in the Demo's video.

That being said, wrong whistle choice, dude freakin’ blew it.

I see what you did there

I really wish Lionel would give you the ability to control the brightness of every lamp to your liking. It would also be nice to have the ability to disable that tired and overused rail groaning/creaking effect. They use the same exact sounds in every engine. Engine looks amazing, can’t wait to get mine! I have a CG on the bench almost ready for service.

That hooter whistle is also an older file from the Lionmaster A. Sure would have been nice to get some updated sound files on a “Vision Line” engine. I’m sorry,  I’m just not seeing the “Vision” in this engine. What Vision features are on this engine that aren’t on engines with an Orange box? Oh, I guess the Black box and badging, plus a 4 digit number capabilities must be the “Vision”.

To be fair, based on Lionel’s history with sound, I’d personally tend to prefer they take an “if it ain’t broke, don’t fix it” approach to sounds rather than ditching something that works perfectly well for new sounds that may be decent and may be terrible.

I also think I heard they have a second hooter whistle option in the lineup.

@RickO posted:

I believe that's the "excursion version" with the gloss paint. The video link that N'awlins posted on the first page shows a loco with a more satin finish.

Certainly sounds logical, i.e. the 1218 "excursion version". Having seen and photographed the real 1218 over many, MANY years during her excursion career, and can attest to the fact that she was very glossy!

@Hot Water posted:

Certainly sounds logical, i.e. the 1218 "excursion version". Having seen and photographed the real 1218 over many, MANY years during her excursion career, and can attest to the fact that she was very glossy!

I seen her fresh off her “ restoration “ ……she was indeed glossy, and classy,…..I do believe Lionel got it right this time for the excursion service, …….what people fail to realize, even when new, locomotives were painted in gloss, albeit a lacquer at the time, but nonetheless, a very high level of gloss, …..they weren’t flat like most models are painted, ……over time as the lacquer aged & weathered, then they’d go flat,…..gloss finish in scale is hard to achieve, ….this is a J I did for a fella in excursion service, ….no satin flat finish here,….

Pat F205C3F7-17C6-4F05-A141-72FFEF99FB9657106514-FFF9-4BDE-A573-F7E2619CAE4A

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Pat,

Actually gloss finish is no longer had to achieve on the prototype steam locomotive restorations over the last 30 or 40 years, when the Dupont Imron paint is used. Plus, the Iron is really easy to clean, and keep clean, no mater what gets on it. We had a fuel oil spill on 4449's tender, and washed off the mess with diesel fuel, then used Dawn dishwashing soap as the final wash. She looked as good as the day she was painted!

@Hot Water posted:

Pat,

Actually gloss finish is no longer had to achieve on the prototype steam locomotive restorations over the last 30 or 40 years, when the Dupont Imron paint is used. Plus, the Iron is really easy to clean, and keep clean, no mater what gets on it. We had a fuel oil spill on 4449's tender, and washed off the mess with diesel fuel, then used Dawn dishwashing soap as the final wash. She looked as good as the day she was painted!

Agreed, ….I’ve sprayed a gazzillion gallons of Imron, …..I knew you fully understand finishes, Jack, ………it’s some of the folks on here **** bent everything is supposed to be painted flat finishes, ……a sight to see in the books are examples of Lima’s newly minted locomotives, sprayed in Glidden’s triple black lacquer, …..so glossy, you can see the reflections of the camera man & his tripod in the still,……😉

Pat

@RickO posted:

Heres video of 1210. ( not mine)

I ordered 1210 to have a WW2-appropriate Class A, looks outstanding in the video! Thank you for sharing Rick!

@N&W 1218 posted:

62BCEACB-B57F-4D2D-BF69-651AF1CBD8CF

I’m wondering what is up with the deck plate? Looks awfully high compared to the tender???

It looks like it is not fully rested on the tender deck. This layout has a grade, so I'll speculate that the deck plate may have been nudged up when the engine started climbing the grade, and the hinge is not loose enough to let the deck plate move freely back down. I guess we'll find out when the rest of us get ours delivered.

@N&W 1218 posted:

Nice Video! Love that whistle selection! 😎62BCEACB-B57F-4D2D-BF69-651AF1CBD8CF

I’m wondering what is up with the deck plate? Looks awfully high compared to the tender???

If that’s the version with the Y3 tender, they probably didn’t match the deck height.

Similar to the smaller Atlantic tender they paired with their “stoker equipped” K4s in the Harding funeral set.

@0-Gauge CJ posted:

I ordered 1210 to have a WW2-appropriate Class A, looks outstanding in the video! Thank you for sharing Rick!

It looks like it is not fully rested on the tender deck. This layout has a grade, so I'll speculate that the deck plate may have been nudged up when the engine started climbing the grade, and the hinge is not loose enough to let the deck plate move freely back down. I guess we'll find out when the rest of us get ours delivered.

And, maybe the owner just didn't take the time to push it down just like the cut lever on the back of the tender. I wouldn't be getting your panties all filled with hot cinders yet!

The deck plate on my 1210 on RickO posting was newly out of the box yesterday. I had not adjusted and was taking it on its first run of my friend Jay Hines layout. My friend had picked up at the Lionel Store in Charlotte Friday. I can assure you the deck plate will line up properly. If you like the video please subscribe to his video channel. My only foul up running on his layout I neglected to see the Polar Express was on the same line. Luckily I manage to stop in very close the the Scale Observation Car. Please review his channel and enjoy. The Class A smooth run and functions is a home run for Lionel.

@Big Jim posted:

And, maybe the owner just didn't take the time to push it down just like the cut lever on the back of the tender. I wouldn't be getting your panties all filled with hot cinders yet!

Oh I'm not, I'm just happy to have a scale Legacy Class A!

The Class A smooth run and functions is a home run for Lionel.

Thanks for clarifying things! Do you know the track radius that you were running the A on? I've been working on various layout design ideas for awhile now and I am trying to decide what balance of articulated overhang and curve tightness (thus more track) I want.

Speaking of the excursion, yeah that was the one with the gloss finish. I do remember a few people wanted the option to have 1218 without a gloss finish. At the time Ryan assured people(this was at York), that there would be several versions of the Class A. He did say that the 3D printed shell probably made the gloss finish even more so than what it should have been.

I got to pop a look at some of the videos. I haven't had a chance to look into anything lately other than a few posts. I really can't wait to see what the real model looks like, but mine has not come in as yet anyway. I have to wait until next year.

I just went through my inbox and saw the custom PRR Class A Mr. Muffins put out. It looks good except the red roof on the cab IMO. I do realize that the Pennsy often had red roof cabs, but to me it just looks a little crazy. Yeah, I do know it is a fantasy paint scheme, and a fantasy engine for the Pennsy, but ack. I think it would have looked better with a black cab roof. I guess the red in the tender would have to be black too as they would match?

I just went through my inbox and saw the custom PRR Class A Mr. Muffins put out. It looks good except the red roof on the cab IMO. I do realize that the Pennsy often had red roof cabs, but to me it just looks a little crazy.

Interesting it wasn't the 2 different reds Lionel has been using on pennsy stuff these days.

It's actually quite similar to the red  mth uses.

We were running on O72 yesterday. I have not tested my 1210 on anything but the O72. My friend Jay Hines was running his 1201 fantasy scheme on his Youtube channel.

@Burl posted:

I ran on O72, and there is a fair amount of overhang and the drawbar must be put in the longest position for the deck plate to clear the tender sides.  If you have room, I'd suggest larger radius than O72.  O72 is tight for fast running, S-curves, etc.

Thanks for the info. I am aiming for O72 to be the absolute minimum on my layout and am currently looking at O96, but O96 curves leave less straight space for things like large yards. Thanks again for sharing.

Pretty neat engine. I can’t speak to how prototypical the overall design is but there are lots of cool details. It sounds awesome! Much better than the 2–10–4 Texan I just got. Smokes like a forest fire. It runs so smoothly…it just oozes down the track.  Being a Visionline engine I thought it would have the swinging bell but it does not.  I haven’t hooked up any cars to it yet so I can’t comment on the force coupler operation. Overall, very happy with it. Worth $2 grand? All I can say is ****, what isn’t expensive nowadays? I’m ok with it but my budget is depleted for 2023 already   😝

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i’ve never owned a huge, articulated engine like this before. I’ve seen many pictures and videos, especially of the Big Boys. I’ve never noticed these articulated arms that seem to help stabilize the front end as it swings out. Is this unique to this model or do other large articulated engines have it?

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Last edited by VJandP

Yes, very nice engine.  It also has road specific crew talk (specifically announced "Pennsy 3701").  I was afraid that for a custom run Lionel would just use generic crew talk dialog, but I am very happy that they put in the effort to customize the crew talk also.

One thing to note is that for a good size steam engine, it is relatively not very heavy.  The engine weighs in at 9 lb 7 oz (the tender is 4 lbs 1 oz).  For comparison, my Legacy EM-1 engine weighs 14 lbs.  As such I don't expect it will have top end pulling power (the pulling power comes mostly from the weight of the engine and the tire traction - no so much the motor).  Lionel probably reduced the weight to save cost somewhere?  They just don't make them like they used to!

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@VJandP posted:

Being a Visionline engine I thought it would have the swinging bell but it does not.  

N&W Class A locomotives had pneumatic bell ringers that sounded the bells.  They did not swing.  The model portrays this accurately.

I’ve never noticed these articulated arms that seem to help stabilize the front end as it swings out. Is this unique to this model or do other large articulated engines have it?

The extremely tight curves O gauge locomotives tend to be operated on (even what would be considered a large diameter curve in O gauge is generally much smaller than exists in real life) exaggerates the look, but those are the steam pipes that would carry steam in or out of the cylinders.  In real life they'd flex somewhat to allow the locomotive to articulate.  The models allow much more flex than the real ones likely would in order to navigate the above-mentioned O gauge curves.

@VJandP posted:

Pretty neat engine. I can’t speak to how prototypical the overall design is but there are lots of cool details. It sounds awesome! Much better than the 2–10–4 Texan I just got. Smokes like a forest fire. It runs so smoothly…it just oozes down the track.  Being a Visionline engine I thought it would have the swinging bell but it does not.  I haven’t hooked up any cars to it yet so I can’t comment on the force coupler operation. Overall, very happy with it. Worth $2 grand? All I can say is ****, what isn’t expensive nowadays? I’m ok with it but my budget is depleted for 2023 already   😝



You left the foam under the tender between the trucks and the body.  Might want to remove that so it doesn't create any unnecessary drag.

@ntn-pa posted:

One thing to note is that for a good size steam engine, it is relatively not very heavy.  The engine weighs in at 9 lb 7 oz (the tender is 4 lbs 1 oz).  For comparison, my Legacy EM-1 engine weighs 14 lbs.  As such I don't expect it will have top end pulling power (the pulling power comes mostly from the weight of the engine and the tire traction - no so much the motor).  Lionel probably reduced the weight to save cost somewhere?  They just don't make them like they used to!

I noticed this! The 2-10–4 Texan feels like it weighs at least a pound or two more.

@MartyE thanks for mentioning this. When I went back and watched the videos, I noticed it and removed them already.  👍🏼

I got a call yesterday that my Class A arrived along with the Black River and Western set. Next year is when those will come home. I'm surprised that both of these got finished quick, though I did say to my brother that the SW1's had been run, so that may have made production faster for the BR&W set.

Good to see that Pennsy Class A @VJandP, and the red actually looks different from what I saw from Mr. Muffins pictures. Maybe it's just the contrast from where he took his picture and you to yours, what do I know though.

@ntn-pa posted:

Yes, very nice engine.  It also has road specific crew talk (specifically announced "Pennsy 3701").  I was afraid that for a custom run Lionel would just use generic crew talk dialog, but I am very happy that they put in the effort to customize the crew talk also.

One thing to note is that for a good size steam engine, it is relatively not very heavy.  The engine weighs in at 9 lb 7 oz (the tender is 4 lbs 1 oz).  For comparison, my Legacy EM-1 engine weighs 14 lbs.  As such I don't expect it will have top end pulling power (the pulling power comes mostly from the weight of the engine and the tire traction - no so much the motor).  Lionel probably reduced the weight to save cost somewhere?  They just don't make them like they used to!

The pulling power for any locomotive real or scale is based on the weight on the driving wheels. The motor only plays a part if it's undersized.

@VJandP posted:


i’ve never owned a huge, articulated engine like this before. I’ve seen many pictures and videos, especially of the Big Boys. I’ve never noticed these articulated arms that seem to help stabilize the front end as it swings out. Is this unique to this model or do other large articulated engines have it?

Like others have pointed out they are meant to represent some of the steam delivery pipes, but I've not seen ones like that on any of my articulated locomotives. That said I don't own a Class A. The way Lionel has used them as "stabilizers" is novel to me, and I think a good idea.

@VJandP posted:

Pretty neat engine. I can’t speak to how prototypical the overall design is but there are lots of cool details. It sounds awesome! Much better than the 2–10–4 Texan I just got. Smokes like a forest fire. It runs so smoothly…it just oozes down the track.  Being a Visionline engine I thought it would have the swinging bell but it does not.  I haven’t hooked up any cars to it yet so I can’t comment on the force coupler operation. Overall, very happy with it. Worth $2 grand? All I can say is ****, what isn’t expensive nowadays? I’m ok with it but my budget is depleted for 2023 already   😝

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32CE5BEC-4981-4E9F-8A8C-619E3F19662A



i’ve never owned a huge, articulated engine like this before. I’ve seen many pictures and videos, especially of the Big Boys. I’ve never noticed these articulated arms that seem to help stabilize the front end as it swings out. Is this unique to this model or do other large articulated engines have it?

0AD6EAEB-B979-4CF1-B94A-B2224250610B

Nice pick on the Class A. My vision big boy has those and I think so does my 2-10-10-2.

@jstraw124 posted:

Received our first black box yesterday.  It’s the WWII version #1210.  Trying to hold out till Christmas for opening, but I am weakening.

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Test it, check it all out, make sure it isn't damaged.  Then put it back.  The disappointment on Christmas if something is amiss isn't worth it.

Last edited by MartyE
@Big Jim posted:

Once again, those are steam pipes, not stabilizers!

Understood. @VJandP said they were acting like "stabilizers"... I'm wondering if Lionel spring loaded them to help keep the front engine centered or whatever. If not, oh well. I was just taking the OP noticing them performing an additional function.

It would be kind of cool if they attempted to do that because one thing I've noticed is that with O-scale articulated locomotives they can look a little odd coming down the tracks if there is too much play side to side.

Here are some pictures of my WM M-2 Challenger. It has no such pipes there. It has steam delivery pipes between the wheels that go to the cylinders and then the exhaust turns inward and then up through the smoke box.

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Lionel's JLC C&O H-8 Allegheny has those articulated pipes.  I imagine the Legacy version does as well being based off the same tooling.

I have an H-8 but it's the MTH version. It doesn't have pipes like the "A". It looks much more like the WM M-2. I'd be interested to see pictures of yours.

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@rplst8 posted:

Understood. @VJandP said they were acting like "stabilizers"... I'm wondering if Lionel spring loaded them to help keep the front engine centered or whatever. If not, oh well. I was just taking the OP noticing them performing an additional function?

That’s correct.   As far as the prototype goes, these are steam pipes.  But on Lionel’s other big articulated engines that I’ve seen, I’ve never seen “arms” anchoring the front end.   If they are acting like “stabilizers”, Lionel did a great job multi-purposing this piece as a prototypical steam pipe that doubles as a functioning stabilizer on the scale model.  

My lovely wife surprised me a day early for Christmas.

Never owned a vision line product or articulated steam engine, spectacular model in every way.


I need to redesign the tunnels on the curves to accommodate the boiler overhang

Only minor gripe is the drop plate between Locomotive and tender does not go all the way down. Did anyone have luck fixing this and how?

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Picked up my 1218 this afternoon.  I'm quite impressed with it so far.  The sounds, detailing, smoke effects, etc are all impressive as I would expect out of such a model.  My checkbook is hurting but running and studying the locomotive has definitely helped ease that pain a bit.  It's got the feline stamp of approval as well...

The O-72 minimum curve is definitely a necessity as certain detail parts nearly bottom out even on that diameter curvature.  I've noted that mine does not like making left hand turns on O-72 curves as the fireman's side forward running board step comes into contact with the back side of the headlight and pilot handrail.  I assume they're all this way simply based on the attention to detail without cutting corners to make it work.  The right hand running board isn't as long so it isn't an issue when going around a right hand turn.  Obviously larger than O-72 curves would be best for this, I simply don't have room for them in my current living arrangement.

A bit of a "walk around" tour in photos.  Excuse the makeshift apartment dining table photo studio and so-so iPhone photo quality

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@Rod Stewart posted:

It’s all quite subjective of course depending on what you like. Not a fan of shiny black on an engine myself, looks too early-Williams somehow.

Rod

But it did happen: https://www.flickr.com/photos/hunter1828/8338953178

On a side note. While too much for my budget,and layout. These look great.

It's nice to see a non U.P. articulated from Lionel.  IMO the A is much more asthetically appealing.

Last edited by RickO
@N&W 1218 posted:

WoW! Thanks for sharing. The walk around is very impressive. I especially love the shot with the Giant Kitty! 😎 The 611 shot is also pretty special. 😍 I’m guessing that’s the J that came with the set??? The Tuscan color looks correct. 👍🏻

Happy to share!  I noticed that there were several videos out there since they've been getting delivered, but no real detailed still photos.

611 is the old TMCC model with some electronic upgrades.  A very nice model itself.

Any more comments on the deck plate between the engine and tender. The original JLC Y6b had a deck plate that rested on the tender. Looked and functioned great. I’m not seeing that on the videos and still photos. Looks like the deck plate is fixed in 10 degree angle upward.

1. Why would it be fixed?

2. Why in an upward angle?

Still waiting on mine so any help would be appreciated!

The deck plate seems to have limiting nubs cast into the hinge loops that rest against the cab.  I wouldn't recommend bending a casting but a small amount of pressure in the case of mine was enough to get it to sit on the tender deck on level track.  Obviously it still rises up a bit when under way on uneven track, but as close as the cab is to the tender on this one with the kinematic drawbar, I can't say I've noticed it when on the track running.

I like the gloss paint on mine.  It definitely shows fingerprints as one would expect but they wipe off easily with a microfiber cloth.  I'll probably consider putting a pair of nitrile gloves or something along the lines of that into the box for handling it in the future.  My photos seem to exaggerate the texture of the paint with sort of an "orange peel" appearance, however in person I feel like it doesn't look quite so textured.  I took it to the train club this evening and most people seemed to like it for being something different than we're used to.  They weren't painted flat black in real life after all so they were shiny at least once before they got covered in soot and road grime.  Obviously the excursion look of 1218 that Lionel wanted to portray would have generally been clean and shiny as well.

@SantaFe158 posted:

The deck plate seems to have limiting nubs cast into the hinge loops that rest against the cab.  I wouldn't recommend bending a casting but a small amount of pressure in the case of mine was enough to get it to sit on the tender deck on level track.  Obviously it still rises up a bit when under way on uneven track, but as close as the cab is to the tender on this one with the kinematic drawbar, I can't say I've noticed it when on the track running.

I like the gloss paint on mine.  It definitely shows fingerprints as one would expect but they wipe off easily with a microfiber cloth.  I'll probably consider putting a pair of nitrile gloves or something along the lines of that into the box for handling it in the future.  My photos seem to exaggerate the texture of the paint with sort of an "orange peel" appearance, however in person I feel like it doesn't look quite so textured.  I took it to the train club this evening and most people seemed to like it for being something different than we're used to.  They weren't painted flat black in real life after all so they were shiny at least once before they got covered in soot and road grime.  Obviously the excursion look of 1218 that Lionel wanted to portray would have generally been clean and shiny as well.

Hmmm, ….very interesting,….as if you read my mind!…..I’ve been painting for over 35 years, and to this date, I never knew a picture could exaggerate orange peel,…..to death,……orange peel is orange peel, it’s either there, or it ain’t!….I’m very glad you’re happy with your new purchase, cause I’d be livid,……I am well aware of what a newly delivered, or restored locomotive is supposed to look like,…I’m just kinda surprised a multi million dollar manufacturer accepted that kind of finish on such a highly touted, & highly priced model,…..if you’re gonna lay down a gloss finish on a model, it’d better be slick as glass,…..gloss in scale is tough to do!…the slightest orange peel, and the message ain’t conveyed……they got to be slick like an eel,…..this is how it should be done…..the first represents as-delivered Mohawk in triple black lacquer, and the second is excursion J 611 done in gloss urethane to match high gloss Dupont Imron used on the J’s subsequent repaints in modern day …….again, I’m glad you’re glad, and thank you for posting the pictures, ……not knocking your model, it just doesn’t sit well with me, …..I’d be doing a re-shoot,….

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@harmonyards posted:

Hmmm, ….very interesting,….as if you read my mind!…..I’ve been painting for over 35 years, and to this date, I never knew a picture could exaggerate orange peel,…..to death,……orange peel is orange peel, it’s either there, or it ain’t!….I’m very glad you’re happy with your new purchase, cause I’d be livid,……I am well aware of what a newly delivered, or restored locomotive is supposed to look like,…I’m just kinda surprised a multi million dollar manufacturer accepted that kind of finish on such a highly touted, & highly priced model,…..if you’re gonna lay down a gloss finish on a model, it’d better be slick as glass,…..gloss in scale is tough to do!…the slightest orange peel, and the message ain’t conveyed……they got to be slick like an eel,…..this is how it should be done…..the first represents as-delivered Mohawk in triple black lacquer, and the second is excursion J 611 done in gloss urethane to match high gloss Dupont Imron used on the J’s subsequent repaints in modern day …….again, I’m glad you’re glad, and thank you for posting the pictures, ……not knocking your model, it just doesn’t sit well with me, …..I’d be doing a re-shoot,….

Pat

Yes I definitely see where you're coming from with those thoughts.  I also didn't pay attention to who I was replying to so my explanation probably came across as a bit more "educating" than I would have if I had been paying attention.  You've definitely posted some beautiful modeling projects over the years!

Most comments I've seen about the gloss have been along the lines of "why would anybody paint a model in gloss finish, real trains aren't shiny" so that was my thought process in answering.

@harmonyards posted:

.... and to this date, I never knew a picture could exaggerate orange peel,…..to death,……

Hah! You should know by now that if you want to see any defect in your workmanship, just post a photo of it online and it will stick out like a sore thumb! BTDT!

A few details that I find missing on this high end model that I would think should have been included is :
1.) The whistle cord. Actually it is not a cord at all but a metal rod that ran from the cab through the sandbox to the whistle.
2.) Curtains. Other Lionel offerings have them, why not this?
3.) The "Water Gauge" on the fireman's side of the tender.

Last edited by Big Jim

Jim, when I was there in March the 1218 was on the track against the platform:DDB27CAC-6E87-495A-984B-5EF2DB9C1954

I brought my 1238 home yesterday:

This is my first Lionel with the Force Coupler. It seems a bit hyperactive especially in reverse. I haven’t looked at it very closely yet but I keep getting the ‘crunch-bang’ sound.

The Kadee setup is pretty nice and easy though!

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@SantaFe158 posted:

Yes I definitely see where you're coming from with those thoughts.  I also didn't pay attention to who I was replying to so my explanation probably came across as a bit more "educating" than I would have if I had been paying attention.  You've definitely posted some beautiful modeling projects over the years!

Most comments I've seen about the gloss have been along the lines of "why would anybody paint a model in gloss finish, real trains aren't shiny" so that was my thought process in answering.

Oh I agree with you 100%, it’s about time the mfr.’s did some gloss models, ……if they did it a little wetter, and had their concoction a little thinner, they’d a nailed it,……but as I mentioned, if you guys are happy, then that’s all that matters,….what irks me is if I can get a slick finish in my one car paint booth, with just me & a gun, then to be sure a world class manufacturer should be able to blow my doors off, …..I mean, if they need a consulting service on how to get it right, I am available. I can’t speak of the things Big Jim says are wrong, the N&W really ain’t my cup of tea, only specific models that I’ve been contracted to build, but then I study up on them and get well versed,…..in the case of the J, it just so happens that locomotive frequents the NC Transportation museum, so I literally can go hang out with it for a while……I’m not knocking you, or your model Jake, they just could’ve done a better job,…..

Pat

I brought my 1238 home yesterday:



This is my first Lionel with the Force Coupler. It seems a bit hyperactive especially in reverse. I haven’t looked at it very closely yet but I keep getting the ‘crunch-bang’

I have the 1210 and notice the same repeating “crunch bang” when in reverse, with or without pushing a line of cars.  While going forward I do not notice any hyperactivity. This is my first force coupler also.

Interesting! I can trigger the crunch sound with the engine at idle and pushing the trailing truck back and forth. I understand it’s some type of sensor, just not sure what kind. I looked them up on the support site. The Niagara breakdown shows it. The trailing truck armature/mount/sensor has about +/-3/32” of travel from center from my quick investigation. I’m wondering if it can be adjusted.

Minor issue aside, I absolutely love the whistle effects with the engine and tender speaker interaction. It’s my first engine with this feature and it’s really neat to play with.

Last edited by Norm Charbonneau

Interesting! I can trigger the crunch sound with the engine at idle and pushing the trailing truck back and forth. I understand it’s some type of sensor, just not sure what kind. I looked them up on the support site. The Niagara breakdown shows it. The trailing truck armature/mount/sensor has about +/-3/32” of travel from center from my quick investigation. I’m wondering if it can be adjusted.

Minor issue aside, I absolutely love the whistle effects with the engine and tender speaker interaction. It’s my first engine with this feature and it’s really neat to play with.

The issue hasn’t bothered me enough to investigate it at the workbench yet. I will eventually.  Besides, I currently have a long line coal cars hooked to it.  Going backwards is asking for trouble right now.

I am very pleased with the model. Every time I run it, I discover a new detail or feature.

I don’t run smoke very often although I have a lot of engines with perfectly good units in them. I’d rather have decent weathering and be able to maintain it without the hassle of cleaning the oil off the flat finish. Another thing that some people seem to forget is that for us married guys, one trick to keeping marital bliss intact is to not upset your wife’s olfactory senses!

The smooth running and awesome sounds emanating from this beast more than makes up for the lack of smoke!

Now I need to find more hoppers and another caboose or two. Can’t believe how scarce proper N&W cabooses are considering how many popular N&W engines have been made.

I agree with the lack of a mass-produced, O scale N&W caboose. Lionel & MTH never had a problem producing fantasy paint schemes on almost anything, they can do the same with a N&W caboose, if they want to guarantee enough sales. Lionel produced the B&O I-12 Wagon top caboose, in various paint schemes.

HOW CAN WE MAKE THIS HAPPEN?

I don’t run smoke very often although I have a lot of engines with perfectly good units in them. I’d rather have decent weathering and be able to maintain it without the hassle of cleaning the oil off the flat finish. Another thing that some people seem to forget is that for us married guys, one trick to keeping marital bliss intact is to not upset your wife’s olfactory senses!

The smooth running and awesome sounds emanating from this beast more than makes up for the lack of smoke!

Now I need to find more hoppers and another caboose or two. Can’t believe how scarce proper N&W cabooses are considering how many popular N&W engines have been made.

I have been asking Scott Mann about offering N&W hoppers in plastic, seeing as how awesome their battleship gondolas came out. Perhaps now is the time to petition? Although I have a lot of brass N&W hoppers, I share your interest in more proper N&W hoppers and cabooses.

Greg P

www.youtube.com/trainbros89

Mostly a repeat of my photos above, but there is some operating footage at the end of this brief video I put together yesterday.  The caboose running at the end of the train is an MTH product from the early 2000s.  It's the closest steam era appropriate N&W caboose I was able to dig up.  I doubt it's a perfect match for any true prototype other than the paint scheme, but it serves the purpose until someone comes up with something better.

A couple comments about the force coupler, I too noted some of the quirks mentioned above in its operation.  At one point I deactivated the feature as outlined in the manual and you can then control the "laboring" effects manually as with a normal Legacy locomotive.  I haven't quite decided which way I like better yet.

Last edited by SantaFe158


Now I need to find more hoppers and another caboose or two. Can’t believe how scarce proper N&W cabooses are considering how many popular N&W engines have been made.

The only time I remember finding near-prototypical N&W CF/CG cabooses for sale was earlier this year when two went up for auction on eBay - one in dark blue with the hamburger logo, the other red. I think both went for close to over $200 each. We need more of these made!

@ironman1 posted:

Everyone may not agree, but personally, I'm satisfied with the Atlas, Lionel & MTH 2 bay fish belly type hoppers. IT'S A CABOOSE WE NEED. That will satisfy 3 Rail & 2 Rail.

The non-peaked end fishbelly hoppers are fine, and I think are "prototypical enough" for certain classes of N&W hopper (I can't remember exactly which), but I would really love to see more of the peaked-end hoppers. Atlas is the only one I know of that has made them in 3 rail (and have found on the used market). More of these would be great, especially in plastic. Atlas' die-cast version is very hefty and feels great just to hold in your hand, but trying to pull a long string of them up a grade may not be possible depending on the grade and number of cars.

I repainted this Weaver 2 rail CG that was in the diesel scheme but I am not real happy with the way it came out. I may work on it some more but it’s real close to getting stripped and redone. I used an old Champ set of decals which were very thick and weren’t trying to stay on for me. Weaver did the CG and CF and they are hard to find. I doubt Lionel would tool one but you never know. Their N5 was pretty nice and unexpected.

D9254841-09C8-4D3C-95BF-D9FD194DDDF4

They were cataloged in 2006, here’s the archived catalog:

https://www.yumpu.com/en/docum...atalog-weaver-models

I have a few of these Atlas hoppers which are good enough for now:

AE51FC80-D960-450C-8623-B1A26E93AC5C

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Last edited by Norm Charbonneau
@0-Gauge CJ posted:

The only time I remember finding near-prototypical N&W CF/CG cabooses for sale was earlier this year when two went up for auction on eBay - one in dark blue with the hamburger logo, the other red. I think both went for close to over $200 each. We need more of these made!

I really doubt a newly tooled cabin car from the big L would be much cheaper.

Weaver brass CF/CGs are worth 200-300 bucks imo. They are very nicely made. Sunset made a nice 2 rail CG too, maybe early 80s? A proper scale N&W steam era caboose tooled to modern standards in ABS would be welcome right about now, tooled to the standards of Lionel’s nice I-12 (fetching north of $100 lately) or the nice PRR N5s.

Here’s the CF at Roanoke:

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Last edited by Norm Charbonneau

A few years back it was, yes. The cupola is diecast for some reason!AAACFA41-F6D8-418D-98FA-68F0B2F4A64F2EC3DE3A-FE8B-491A-B7FF-9FCBFA52AF5A

I think Lionel could make a nice N&W caboose if they really wanted to. They could paint it Sponge Bob later on too I wouldn’t care.

Man those are really nice looking as weathered!

Wasn't this cataloged in 2015? I assumed they were based on the earlier brass version they did years back.

I have the smoking version of the N5b they did and then an N5 that lacks the crash bars. I like them a lot.

Edit: turns out I got my cabin cars mixed up. Lionel did an N8 in brass in the 90s. Williams did the brass N5.

Last edited by rplst8

Hey Norm, I like your Sponge Bob suggestion. I’d even buy a Sponge Bob if that’s all they made…for $89.99. I’d just repaint it.😊 I’d definitely have to re-run my N&W caboose decals for sure though.

BTW, the Sunset CG caboose is ok, I have 2, it lacks the detail of the Weaver, mostly missing separately applied roof walks. It appears to be stamped as part of the roof.

Joe

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Quick shot of my 1218 on the test track with an MTH aux tender and an Atlas O N&W baggage/tool car. The gloss finish on mine came out pretty smooth. Looking forward to getting all of the excursion cars behind it (the earlier release cars with the correct paint color that matches that Atlas O car) Not sure what Lionel has been thinking lately with using what is basically red for their recent N&W offerings.nw1218 - 1

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Last edited by Surefire

Have a question for SantaFe158 regarding his comments on the force coupler or any other members:

SantaFe158: A couple comments about the force coupler, I too noted some of the quirks mentioned above in its operation.  At one point I deactivated the feature as outlined in the manual and you can then control the "laboring" effects manually as with a normal Legacy locomotive.

I am trying to do the same on my recently arrived 1201; I successfully set its engine ID and then ran the engine for a while; now I want to go back and disable the force coupler sounds; tried following the instructions on page 15 of the manual but no success.  The instructions mention pressing Aux on the Cab2 but my Cab2 1.6 only has has Aux1 and Aux 2 buttons.  Maybe I am missing some steps.

@RickM46 posted:

Have a question for SantaFe158 regarding his comments on the force coupler or any other members:

SantaFe158: A couple comments about the force coupler, I too noted some of the quirks mentioned above in its operation.  At one point I deactivated the feature as outlined in the manual and you can then control the "laboring" effects manually as with a normal Legacy locomotive.

I am trying to do the same on my recently arrived 1201; I successfully set its engine ID and then ran the engine for a while; now I want to go back and disable the force coupler sounds; tried following the instructions on page 15 of the manual but no success.  The instructions mention pressing Aux on the Cab2 but my Cab2 1.6 only has has Aux1 and Aux 2 buttons.  Maybe I am missing some steps.

When you push "info" AUX appears in the top LCD.  Push the corresponding button under it, then AUX1, then 8.

DOH, thanks MartyE; saw the Aux on the LCD and have successfully turned off the forced coupler sounds using the manuals instructions.

I use whistle sound #5 and now its seems louder above all the other sounds.  I have been waiting for this whistle sound since I started into Lionel in 2014; as a kid I had a bedroom window facing the railroad tracks (1 mile away) in my Pennsylvania coal town and at night I could easily hear the locos going by with, I think, this whistle.

Last edited by RickM46

Ordered my N&W 1201 last Saturday from TW and it turned up on Thursday; shipped in typical TW style - double boxed and padded to the max around the Lionel shipping box.  No blemishes, everything works; darn good looking engine and tender; I like the bright red striping - a little darker Tuscan red would have been better BUT still looks good; the marker lighting and the light in the dog house is a nice touch; smokes like crazy.  Happy Camper.

*WARNING!* - Do not do this!

Some of you have expressed a concern about the Class A footplate not riding on the tender deck. DO NOT go forcing the footplate down! You can see in the photo below (okay, it is a little fuzzy) that there is a nub on each of the hinges that keeps the footplate in a horizontal manner. If you go trying to force the plate down, you are probably going to break something that is not easy to fix!!!
If you really want to have the footplate ride on the tender deck, you can remove the two screws that are holding the footplate on the locomotive and then you can file that nub off of both hinges to where it is round. Then it should be able to go below horizontal and ride on the tender deck.
Footplate edit

A couple of other things that I found when unboxing my A. I noticed that at the turret, on top of the boiler just in front of the cab, some of the piping was missing to this casting. I thought that this was odd.

20230106_124000

Then as I turn my engine over, I noticed that lying there was one of the missing pieces that had broken off. Looking in the box, there was the other piece. So, at least I have both of the valves that should be on there.

20230106_124130

One other thing that I notice was that on the scale front coupler the link from the front cut lever to the coupler pin was flopping around. Looking it over, This piece of rod just slips back into a hole in the cut lever bracket. It needs to do this in order that the scale coupler can be removed and replaced by the big coupler.

Overall, I am very pleased with this model. As I have stated before it is missing a few details that would make the model stand out even more. Cab curtains, I wonder how they missed those? The rod that needed to go to the whistle in order for it to be blown and the water gauge that belongs on the fireman's side of the tender in order to check the water level.

Curtains
Lionel did get the injector outlet routed correctly through the beam of the frame.

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I received my 1218 from Nassau hobby yesterday. Very nice and smooth. One of the handrails on the back of the cab on the fireman's side is pulled out of the body. Also for anyone interested it will navigate ross o64 curves just fine with plenty of play left in all the moving parts. It just has some overhang. Until I relocate to my new train building atleast I can use it.

BigJim and Cummins: Some years back, I had an experience with my VL Niagara out of the box; the right vertical handrail on the cab was broken off from its bottom mount hole; tried crazy glue to remount it there and that turned into a mess; the crazy glue discolored/dissolved the black paint in the surrounding area; it didn’t hold that well anyway; so, had to sand, primer, repaint, and then epoxy the handrail in place.  Don’t know if all crazy glue will do this

Rick,
Yes, being that the broken off valves are such small parts and very hard to get to in order to make a proper repair, they may just stay in with the spare parts bag. Not seeing Cummin's hand rail problem, it may just be a matter of inserting the handrail back in the hole like I did with the front cut lever rod.

I would like to mention that if any of you would like to hear what a real Class A can do, find the CD "Time Freight" by O. Winston Link. The entire CD he is onboard east and westbound time freights pulled by a Class A. Side A starts out in Roanoke heading east to Crewe, Va., while, Side B is westbound from Crewe toward Roanoke. Hold on to your hats near the last part of Side A, 'cause the engineer has it "in the wind"!

@Big Jim posted:

Rick,
Yes, being that the broken off valves are such small parts and very hard to get to in order to make a proper repair, they may just stay in with the spare parts bag. Not seeing Cummin's hand rail problem, it may just be a matter of inserting the handrail back in the hole like I did with the front cut lever rod.

I received a Vision line gg1 once with hose detailing missing which was not in the box. So I never got it fixed. Parts for that area were never on line.

@RickM46 posted:

BigJim and Cummins: Some years back, I had an experience with my VL Niagara out of the box; the right vertical handrail on the cab was broken off from its bottom mount hole; tried crazy glue to remount it there and that turned into a mess; the crazy glue discolored/dissolved the black paint in the surrounding area; it didn’t hold that well anyway; so, had to sand, primer, repaint, and then epoxy the handrail in place.  Don’t know if all crazy glue will do this

I would use epoxy first and then touch up with black paint where necessary. I’ve done that for fragile mounts and it’s been super. Crazy glue gets brittle and gives up in this kind of application.

@cjack posted:

I would use epoxy first and then touch up with black paint where necessary. I’ve done that for fragile mounts and it’s been super. Crazy glue gets brittle and gives up in this kind of application.

Chuck, The proper way to make the repair would be to drill the valve and turret out and insert a new pipe. There really isn't enough "meat" there for any kind of glue to hold on to and not suffer further damage.

@cummins2500 posted:

I received my 1218 from Nassau hobby yesterday. Very nice and smooth. One of the handrails on the back of the cab on the fireman's side is pulled out of the body. Also for anyone interested it will navigate ross o64 curves just fine with plenty of play left in all the moving parts. It just has some overhang. Until I relocate to my new train building atleast I can use it.

Just a comment on running on tighter curves.  Many years ago I had a Lionel Y6b that seemed to run on O54 just fine, but in time, it broke the ball joint inside that connects the motor to the forward drivers.  Just because there is enough "swing" doesn't mean other parts you can't see aren't getting stressed, particularly on articulated steamers.  That said, I know lots of guys run on smaller radius and seem to have no issues, just thought it was worth throwing out a caution.

Jim, that stinks. Did you ask Lionel about getting it fixed?

Norm,
No, I haven't as I figure that it is not worth damaging the engine even more during shipping and there is no guarantee that a replacement part wouldn't do the same thing. If it was something really major, I would have.
If I had a resistance soldering set, it would be a fairly easy fix. Should have bought one years ago!

Last edited by Big Jim
@Burl posted:

Just a comment on running on tighter curves.  Many years ago I had a Lionel Y6b that seemed to run on O54 just fine, but in time, it broke the ball joint inside that connects the motor to the forward drivers.  Just because there is enough "swing" doesn't mean other parts you can't see aren't getting stressed, particularly on articulated steamers.  That said, I know lots of guys run on smaller radius and seem to have no issues, just thought it was worth throwing out a caution.

I had never thought of that. Thank you for the warning!

Hey Norm,

I believe you’re the first to run an N&W coal drag with a helper on the rear, behind the proper caboose! At least it’s the first I’ve seen in 3 rail O scale. I’ve been waiting for you to post a video. I loved the sound, & it looked great, even with a low number of hoppers. I’m sure with that much power, you could easily pull 50 plus hoppers, no sweat!

Looking forward to the next video!

Joe

Anyone else have their engine show up with the screw missing out of the front couple cover in the pilot? Mine was out and the couple cover and coupler were just rattling around in the box.

Also, the step on the left side of the boiler front/smokebox is bent like a pretzel. Tried pushing on it, but way too sturdy to just push back into place.

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@rplst8 posted:

If the details are brass, it should bend back. The paint might flake off in the process though.

I know it *should*, but the casting is very thick and has an extra support behind it, and it also minimally held into place. As I said, already tried it, and without using pliers it'll rip off the engine before it'll bend back to the correct shape.

Andrew,
What bent one way should bend back the other. Try taking a couple of sets of pliers and maybe wrap the points with some electrical tape to prevent scratching the paint. Then gently start squeezing the the two uprights pieces (circled in red) together while with another set of pliers gently bend down on the step. "Gently" means slowly & easily.  Just a thought, "No Lifeguard - Swim at your own risk"
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Last edited by Big Jim

My steps were also bent up a bit, just not as badly. I was able to correct them with my thumb. They are actually pretty soft. I was trying to imagine how they’d get bent up like that. Maybe during packing?

4B51EB1F-6FC9-4961-8F7E-AD952A29A79B

If it makes anyone feel better the real ones seem a little flappy:

EB89DC26-3230-418C-B0FC-7EA7AE5795EA

I really can’t stand the heat shrunk LED leads. Now that they are stuffing two LEDs in there they are even fatter. I ordered some fiber optic end glow rod from Amazon to experiment with.

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Last edited by Norm Charbonneau


I really can’t stand the heat shrunk LED leads. Now that they are stuffing two LEDs in there they are even fatter. I ordered some fiber optic end glow rod from Amazon to experiment with.

I’m guessing the return to the shrink wrapped 3mm LEDs are due to the fact that the 2mm ceramic base LEDs are no longer available from the original manufacturer.

There is another type that has a little 2mm extension that will fit where the older ceramic ones do. I’ve previously used them for diesel marker lights. They may work here if the “nub” is long enough, though you’d have to drill a hole in the boiler front directly behind the marker lamp housing. That said, I’m having trouble finding the exact item now.

They sort of look like this, but with a longer nub.

https://www.mouser.com/Product...GCI0KDhQyXQrxQ%3D%3D

OK, regarding the step bent upward, I finally got it; checked my 1201 and its step too is bent upward but not as much as the one above; I didn't notice it at first; I plan on leaving it as is since it breaking off would be worse.  Must be something in the mold or jig or shipping or handling process that caused it.

On another note, Norm, what is the LED issue above that you discovered; is that related to the 1218?

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