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I have an older Allegheny 1999 / 2000 and a couple other steam and diesel engines from 2001 to 2004 that have non working smoke units.

The Allegheny has a bad motor. Where can I just buy the motors? Seems they are always the weakest link?

The Allegheny was upgraded with an ERR board. was something not wired correctly that I should look for which caused the motor to burn out prematurely?

smoke unit motor

Secondly, I needed to confirm on a few other smoke units if the Triac, or capacitor is shot.  If I use my DMM and put the leads across the Triac, what should I set the DMM to, to verify the triac is good... the capacitor? The resistor obviously I check in ohms, or set it to continuity and listen for the ring.

 

I am borrowing another photo from another member here... the black item is the triac and the large vertical cylinder is the capacitor, and of course the smaller cylinder on its side (diode)? ... What function in the circuit do these all have?

smoke unit 2

Thanks guys...

 

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Last edited by J Daddy
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The MTH smoke unit motor is BE-0000041, it's compatible with a majority of Lionel stuff.  An exception is a few smoke units have the shorter Lionel motor, those may have clearance issues with the MTH smoke motor.

First off, there is no triac on the smoke unit in your picture.  There are three components, a 1N400x (probably 3) diode, an electrolytic cap, and a TO-92 5V regulator, LM78L05 or equivalent.  If the power is applied to the smoke unit and the fan connector doesn't produce 5VDC (or close), then those components are suspect.  The three components you mention are to develop 5VDC for the fan motor from the applied voltage that is powering the smoke resistor.

Thanks John.  I realized the triac is not on this board after I wrote it. 

I will check for 5 VDC at the smoke motor connector. If it is higher than the 5 VDC or 0 VDC what should I target?

Right now the Allegheny fan motor will not work at all, will not turn with a 5 VDC applied. Not sure if the motor died on its own or if it getting too much voltage before it burned up.

 

 

 

 

 

 

I suspect the motor simply went bad.  However, if you measure the voltage at the pins, it should be close to 5VDC, within around .2 volts for sure.  If it's high, it's most likely the regulator.  If it's missing, it can be any one of the components, but the regulator then the cap are the most frequent failures.  The diode is pretty robust, though I have replaced one or two.

The problem with the regulators is the TO-92 form factor simply doesn't have the power handling capability needed for the job.  If you measure the temperature of the regulator after a period of running, it will frequently be 80-90C, that's simply too hot for continuous running.  Although the regulator is rated for 100ma, and the motors draw 30-40ma, the 100ma rating is only with some heatsinking.  I've found that the regulator is best suited for 20ma or less in free air in a confined space.

Actually, a vast majority of the time, the regulator just stops outputting any voltage.  It's pretty rare for a 3-terminal regulator to fail shorted, I don't recall any in my recent memory that failed that way.  If it did happen to do that, then it would certainly take out the motor.  Other components like a TVS diode frequently do fail shorted, that's a horse of another color.

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