Need Help with track power!!!

Does the COMM LED flash properly on the TPC when you send it commands?

yes

daniel---i just had to send to lionel my brand new 990 and 400 for the exact same reason 12 days ago. they are replaceing both. should have by wednesday.

Did you try connecting the transformer directly to the track and eliminating the TPC?  I'd give that a try...

Do you have something to test whether you're getting power to the track? A lighted caboose, or better yet an ohmmeter (actually a volt meter for our purposes, but to sound official I think you're supposed to call it an ohmmeter--anyway).  You can get one at Radio Shack for less than $20, and they are invaluable to take the guesswork out of a lot of electrical issues.  When in command mode a TPC will blink steadily. An LED to the left of the blinking LED stays lit when the unit is receving commands, and not lit when not receiving commands.  Make sure it's programmed to command mode, press  TR & # it's programmed to, and press boost.  The blinking light on the TPC will blink faster than before it was addressed.  Check the voltage on the track with the ohm(volt)meter.  It should read about 18 volts.  I hope you didn't get bad gear.  That's a drag.  Good Luck

You can verify that your power wiring is correct by adding a single jumper wire from the TPC's Power In Hot to Track A terminals.  If you install this temporary jumper, you should have power to the track, and you should be able to address your locomotives.

Good idea.  Dale, Is the juice to the track regulated, at 18 volts more or less max, without the TPC to, well,  regulate it?  Straight from the brick is OK? 

Check the voltage you're getting in different areas also.  At the track, the input & output on the TPC.  It may be kicking out power and you got a loose string somewhere. Doublecheck your connections also.  Everyone gets excited first time powering up, and hooking A to the outside rail and U to inside happens more than anyone will ever admit.  That tends to put damper on things, but is an easy fix. 

The brick puts out 18V, appropriate for direct connection to the track.

 

Be aware that checking voltages around the track loop can be very deceiving.  If you don't have a significant load of at least an amp AT THE POINT WHERE YOU ARE MAKING THE MEASUREMENT, a modern voltmeter will not indicate any drop through bad connections or wire joints.  It is only when a substantial current is flowing through these bad spots that you will get a readable drop in voltage.

Dale is spot on about being careful with voltmeter readings. Bad connections sometimes

do not show up. Case in point was the central locking system on my 81' DMC. I eventually used a test lamp and that revealed where I had a problem.

 

Regards

Nick

Yes, but in this case, he's talking about no voltage to the track.  You could put your tongue across 2 rails if you want.  Get grounded so to speak-and shouldn't we all once in awhile? Cheers

I think the key here it to first eliminate the TPC from the picture.  Debugging is just removing possibilities until only one remains.

I'm going to try the jumper today and taking the tpc out as well. If the jumper idea doesn't work it's the tpc correct?

Actually, Dale's ide with the jumper is the same as taking the TPC totally out, he's just shunting it out of the circuit.  If that doesn't work, it's NOT the TPC.

If the jumper does not provide power to the track, there is something wrong with

1.  The power source,

2.  The wiring from the power source to the TPC's terminal strip,

3.  From the TPC's terminal strip to the track, or

4.  Connection to the track.

The fact that you have a lit LED on the TPC means that it is probably getting power.

 

Once this is verified or corrected as necessary, then we can move on to the control wiring on the TPC.  If you are getting a flashing COMM LED when commands are sent to the TPC, this wiring would seem to be correct.

 

Step 3 will be to check for operator errors - programming, switch setting, commands, etc.

 

After we check all these, then we can blame the TPC.

I just hooked up a Legacy sytem with a TPC.  After I got my connections straightened out, it took me awhile to figure out that Boost on a Cab2 is roll the knob up.  Not pressing.  I was used to a Cab1.  Don't press boost to power up, roll the knob up.  Could that be it?  TPCs are very well made units.  It's hard to imagine one being bad out of the box.  I like this Cab2.  Pretty cool.  Good luck

The CAB-1's Boost, Brake, and Direction functions are combined into the one control on the CAB-2.

Can't get command light in tpc to respond at all the track led just blinks ... Controller has no effect on command led

Are you sure you programmed the TPC with an I.D. # correctly ? Set switch to prgrm the push TR1(or whatever number) then SET. Once programmed did you put the run-prgrm switch back to run? It sounds like it did not take the address for whatever reason. Not sure which legacy locos you have but the latest releases do not "power up" until they are addressed even if the track has power.

ok got it fixed the green and red wire to the tpc were crossed... only

 other issue is track power to whole track is intermittent. We found that when we push down on the train, the whole layout powers up.

how many feeds to your layout.  my home lay out which is small has three.  the club feeds ever foot.  do not rely on the track connection to continue power to the next track section.

Every foot seems like overkill, I've never seen a layout that needed that!

I have feeders every 8'-10'. Just as important as the number of feeders (if not more important) is the wire guage. All of my buss/feeder wire is 14 GA, no voltage drops of any kind.

that is what I was told.  the layout was built in 2000 and we sure do not have any power problems.

I guess not with that number of feeders!

Drop in some feeders & tweak your track a bit.  If the whole layout powers up when you push down on the track, your original connection is suspect.  When you push down you are getting better contact.  That tells me your connection isn't quite skippy.  Fix that first and take your time with the other connections so you only have to do it once.  

If the track isn't closed will that cause the problem

Closed?

There is parts of the track not connected to anything ......

It would help if you could elaborate a bit more Daniel, for starters what type of track are you using,i.e, fastrack,tubular,gargraves etc. What guage wire are you powering the track with?, how many feeders? What do you mean by "parts of track not connected to anything"? Is the track at least connected to other track that is powered? Are these "isolated blocks"? or is this just lengths of track sitting on a table not forming a loop? etc. A good thorough layout description will help give the necessary info to other forum members so they can give you troubleshooting tips. Loss of power to areas of a layout is usually caused by a lack of power feeders or loose track pins/joints, these issues are typically addressed as a layout is being constructed to prevent having to take the track back up to crimp joints or install additional feeders.Used track that is dirty or rusted can cause operational issues as well.

It's fast track ... I'm using whatever the standard gauge the track comes with ... What are feeders ??? The layout is custom it's 3 levels and takes up a whole 2 car garage .

Start by upgrading you wire and getting more feeders to the track. Heres an example of a terminal strip made by MTH, I prefer these but there are less expensive strips at hardware and electonics stores.       http://www.google.com/products/catalog?q=mth+terminal+strip&rls=com.microsoft:en-us:IE-Address&oe=UTF-8&rlz=1I7ACAW_enUS424US424&um=1&ie=UTF-8&tbm=shop&cid=13702475170890552007&sa=X&ei=q8yAT_3MA4G_gAfjiomFCA&ved=0CGAQ8wIwAQ#

That's good advice RickO about tweaking the connectors to get solid conductivity between track sections.  Start with your initial connection.  Get that squared away.  Since when you push down on the track it powers up, that connection is squirrely.  Get it straightened out, run some trains for fun, then drop some feeders, jumpers, to strategic locations like every straight next to a corner for example.  Fastrack has great conductivity, it doesn't need a lot of feeders.  Feeders are wire connections to the track to ensure you have power throughout your layout.  Since you have a big layout, you need extra connections to get the proper amount of juice on all the track.  Mark your location you want to drop a feeder down from next to the track, move the track over a bit, drill a 1/4" hole where the middle rail comes in, connect a 14 GA wire to the middle rail connect and run that feeder to your main A or middle rail power line. Don't get frustrated, just keep at it till you get it right. Remember, everyone does this kind of stuff at first.  What happens is, you get so excited to get running that you rush it.  I've done it a million times and never learn.

Cleaned the track the train works fine with just one original feeder point only problem now is once the train gets to the point of the track where original feeder area is the train stops and then starts when you pass the area. When I tested voltage there is no voltage drop it is a steady 17.5 vac ..

Clearly, you have a connectivity issue.  It's possible it's the track, or maybe the train.  Did you try more than one locomotive?

I think we have 2 defective switches they both spark everytime trains pass over and when the pass switch it either kills power to whole track or just stops the train in that spot and u have to manually move it to continue it .