Made some progress today.
Now I can work on my control panel before finishing more of the layout.
George
Hey George, I was looking at your crossover and had a thought. Why not try old school hardwood.
Easier to work with than corian or plastic.
non-conductive
Looks a lot classier.
beardog49 posted:Hey George, I was looking at your crossover and had a thought. Why not try old school hardwood.
Easier to work with than corian or plastic.
non-conductive
Looks a lot classier.
If I use the Corian, I'll paint it black. I like the idea of hardwood with a stain. I just worry that it might not wear well with the trains running through it. I really need to get a table saw to make these crossovers easily. I tried using a router and the tolerances are too small.
George
a lot of hard..... and soft.. wood was used on a lot of hundred year old trains. get some walnut and it
will out last you 
I was doing a little work on the layout this evening. I think I am going to use 5-rail track on the upper level loop.
I'm running out of benchwork and still have a lot of open space in the basement.
George
Today I completed the first level benchwork on the left peninsula. Now I can sketch in track and layout the second level. I have parts to a second level already made, but I realized those were made to clear O gauge trains at 6.5”. I’m going to need 9.5” to 10” to clear Standard gauge.
I also placed orders for track with USA Track and Menards. My MTH / Lionel plastic roadbed track is on eBay right now. There will still be some Fastrack, Atlas and Gargraves on the layout until my budget gets replenished. I still have one Ross tinplate STD switch to buy and am plotting another STD loop, but I have plenty to do for now.
I started mounting the power supplies and realized I had left a few in storage.
Not a rush, since there’s only a little track down right now.
George
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George S posted:
I started mounting the power supplies and realized I had left a few in storage.
George
Weld much? 
You have enough power there to do some!
Rob English posted:George S posted:
I started mounting the power supplies and realized I had left a few in storage.
George
Weld much?
And, there are more packed away! Also, one loop will have a switch to a DC transformer.
George
Hey George,
When you drill through the felt, how do you keep it from winding up around the bit? I tried using felt once and it was a disaster.
PD
pd posted:Hey George,
When you drill through the felt, how do you keep it from winding up around the bit? I tried using felt once and it was a disaster.
PD
I haven't done a lot of that yet. I had that problem. I widened the hole in the felt and kept it away from the bit or up around the shank of the bit if there was slack in the felt. I plan to slice the felt going forward if I am drilling from the top.
I don't think it will do that if it is glued down in the spot you are drilling. So, another option is to slice the felt and glue it down in that spot. Once dry, you can drill. That will take longer though.
George
George S posted:pd posted:Hey George,
When you drill through the felt, how do you keep it from winding up around the bit? I tried using felt once and it was a disaster.
PD
I haven't done a lot of that yet. I had that problem. I widened the hole in the felt and kept it away from the bit or up around the shank of the bit if there was slack in the felt. I plan to slice the felt going forward if I am drilling from the top.
I don't think it will do that if it is glued down in the spot you are drilling. So, another option is to slice the felt and glue it down in that spot. Once dry, you can drill. That will take longer though.
George
Cut an X where you want to drill, then fold the flaps over and hold them out of the way with tape, then drill.
Steve
I hate to say it, but you should really pull the track up and put at least 1 inch styrofoam insulation down as a base. Your layout is going to be very noisy otherwise, as it looks like you are screwing the track directly into the plywood.
I know I wish I had put styrofoam in between the homasote and plywood on my layout.
Nation Wide Lines posted:I hate to say it, but you should really pull the track up and put at least 1 inch styrofoam insulation down as a base. Your layout is going to be very noisy otherwise, as it looks like you are screwing the track directly into the plywood.
I know I wish I had put styrofoam in between the homasote and plywood on my layout.
I want to overhaul my temporary layout starting in January and do something like this. Do you still secure the track to the foam, and if so how?
I kinda like the felt idea, but I have also had problems with the drill bit grabbing cloth and making a mess.
Carpet padding would be much quieter
Nation Wide Lines posted:I hate to say it, but you should really pull the track up and put at least 1 inch styrofoam insulation down as a base. Your layout is going to be very noisy otherwise, as it looks like you are screwing the track directly into the plywood.
I know I wish I had put styrofoam in between the homasote and plywood on my layout.
I haven't installed anything permanently yet. Right now, the track is just floating. I know what you are talking about though. I do not plan on using foam and homasote, although I have read that is the new standard. For me, it's too expensive and too much work. However, your point is well taken that I need to plan on some sound treatment. I think the felt will help a little, but the biggest issue seems to be the screw going through the tie plate to the plywood. (Someone should make plastic screws!) Kirk, from USA Track, recommends not tightening the screw head down to the top of the tie. I have always done that, so I plan to back them off this time. I also read a trick on Tinplate Times that said to put window insulation under the track ties. That seems like a better option for me, although the carpet padding also sounds like a good idea. I'll play with some options. I don't even have all my track yet.
My biggest issue is going to be the Fastrack that I still have. That has to be the noisiest track made. Eventually, I will replace that with Menards track.
George
I used this carpet pad right on top of plywood. There's very little noise. I suspect you'd be happy with something similar.
MikeH posted:I used this carpet pad right on top of plywood. There's very little noise. I suspect you'd be happy with something similar.
What thickness? Will 3/8" work? Do I put it over the entire layout or just where the track is going to be?
George
I have used 3/8 with great results. The idea is to isolate the track from the table.
My current little layout uses 3/8 foam roadbed, track is put together with track clips.
Then two sided tape is attached to the clip and then to the roadbed. No mechanical
fastners (screws, nails etc) between track and table. Even the few trestles I have are
attached to the table with two sided tape.
On a larger layout I built years ago I used the padding that is made with
little bits all pressed together. I got it for free, but an advantage turned out
that it could be painted. I don't know if the foam could be painted.
As far as the drilling felt problem goes, there are dozens of
hole punch sets for leather, etc online. Should work great.
Cheap method would be to sharpen the end of a piece of
brass tubing.
Another thought, chuck a 3" piece of appropriate size tubing in your drill, sharpen the end,
drill hole in felt. Easier than pounding.
What if I used this on top of the felt cut as roadbed?: https://www.homedepot.com/p/Fu...0553557-32/202601407
Do you folks think it would look right?
George
George S posted:MikeH posted:I used this carpet pad right on top of plywood. There's very little noise. I suspect you'd be happy with something similar.
What thickness? Will 3/8" work? Do I put it over the entire layout or just where the track is going to be?
George
George, that link is to the exact stuff I used. Regrettably, I tossed all my extra scraps or I'd post a picture. It's less than 3/8" though. Maybe 1/4". It is carpet pad made for area rugs as opposed to the bonded pad typically used for wall-to-wall carpeting. This pad that I used has a rubber face on one side (for non-skid surface) and the other side is sort of felt-type material. If you look at that Amazon pictures, that should match my description. It's denser than the typical wall-to-wall carpeting pad. It doesn't have near the sponginess. Here's a couple of construction pics from last year:
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George S posted:What if I used this on top of the felt cut as roadbed?: https://www.homedepot.com/p/Fu...0553557-32/202601407
Do you folks think it would look right?
George
I don't think so. If you go see the bonded pad in person, it usually won't present as gray like that picture. That picture shows a gray/black product with flecks of pink, blue, red, etc. in it. Usually, when you see that bonded pad, it will have a green tint or pink tint. But you'll have to go to your local Home Depot to be sure.
If I was building a layout from scratch like you, and was going to use pad, I would use the pad I linked to or something similar. If I was going to use something visible, above the felt, as roadbed, I'd opt for purpose-made material like Flexxbed. Although, I've never personally used Flexxbed so I can't opine on it's performance. I just think it looks nice.
George,
Is that Dorfan train? Where did you find it?
Chris
LVHR
MikeH posted:George S posted:What if I used this on top of the felt cut as roadbed?: https://www.homedepot.com/p/Fu...0553557-32/202601407
Do you folks think it would look right?
George
I don't think so. If you go see the bonded pad in person, it usually won't present as gray like that picture. That picture shows a gray/black product with flecks of pink, blue, red, etc. in it. Usually, when you see that bonded pad, it will have a green tint or pink tint. But you'll have to go to your local Home Depot to be sure.
If I was building a layout from scratch like you, and was going to use pad, I would use the pad I linked to or something similar. If I was going to use something visible, above the felt, as roadbed, I'd opt for purpose-made material like Flexxbed. Although, I've never personally used Flexxbed so I can't opine on it's performance. I just think it looks nice.
I think it would work just fine, similar to what I have used. Just put your felt over it.
beardog49 posted:I think it would work just fine, similar to what I have used. Just put your felt over it.
Sure. Under the felt, just about any carpet pad will do.
lehighline posted:George,
Is that Dorfan train? Where did you find it?
Chris
LVHR
Yes it is. I bought it on eBay with some of the cars. I bought other cars and the caboose at different times. The caboose didn't have a cupola roof, so I made one out of brass stock. The caboose was otherwise in too good of condition to pass up.
I can't believe I found this engine in such great running condition. It runs like a rocket in both directions and pulls all the cars! That's way better than I can say for my Ives 1122. The Dorfan train was on eBay for a couple of weeks, and I made an offer.
I tore down the track temporarily to build the second level. I'll take a video of the Dorfan running once I get the second level built.
George
George,
Great find! I just picked up a group of Dorfan freight cars. Interestingly enough, mine is also missing the roof to the cupola. Please share a closeup of your hand made replacement. I'd like to copy it!
Chris
LVHR
lehighline posted:George,
Great find! I just picked up a group of Dorfan freight cars. Interestingly enough, mine is also missing the roof to the cupola. Please share a closeup of your hand made replacement. I'd like to copy it!
Chris
LVHR
Hi Chris,
Here are some pics of the caboose. I used a rod to shape the edges. I chose the rod size by comparing the ridge at the top of the cupola that the edge wraps around. The brass can also be painted to match the original. I believe there was red and green. I think the green is John Deere green found in a rattle can at Ace Hardware.
George
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I made the upper level.
I laid out the track and some accessories for fitting. I’ll need to remove the track and felt as I complete the five rail track sections. I’ll install the carpet padding on the upper level at that time. Here is what I bought. I’ll need more, but I couldn’t fit the large roll in my car.
I also need to decide how to finish the side of the upper level. I’m thinking about a stone wall in spots. I may try printing it with my computer.
George
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That’s awesome. I like it! Keep going.
Awesome, George. Contact me privately and I will tell you how to drill thru
the padding, John
Thanks George! That is a nice set.
Progress this weekend... I installed the padding on the upper level. Now I need to finish the 5 rail track.
i started laying out the track on the lower level. The Standard Gauge loop is finished. It is mostly new USA Track with a little MTH and some vintage mixed in for the cuts. I have two loops of O gauge to complete, but I am worried about the clearances.
I am also working on how I will finish the transition between the lower and upper levels. I’m thinking of making a wall like this.
George
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hello George, layout is looking great !
can we get more info on your turn table, homemade ? I like it !
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briansilvermustang posted:
hello George, layout is looking great !
can we get more info on your turn table, homemade ? I like it !
The turntable is homemade. I made it several years ago. It’s 36” so it can fit my entire Allegheny engine and tender on it. It’s not really a tinplate look, but it’s mine. The pit base is plywood hung with brackets from the table top. The pit walls are balsa wood. The drive motor is a Radio Shack antenna rotator. The bridge sits on a Lazy Susan ring. The sides of the bridge are balsa wood. The railings are brass stock cut and soldered together.
I used HO track for the pit rail. That’s my one regret. I should have cut a single rail of Gargraves but at the time worried about forming the circle.
George
thank you George, that is very nice ! maybe a possible video of it in action sometime...
are there HO trucks under the bridge riding on the rails ?
