GeorgeS Layout Build - backdrops - Updated 03/08/2020

Green felt - I should have thought of that when building my L-shaped layout. I used the "standard" green patio carpet, which has worked out well. I pre-decided not to paint the layout platform surface -- "too plain."

Although it's noticeable, I placed 3/8ths-inch brass grommets in all drilled holes with a spot of T6000 glue, then dressed the wiring through it to an accessory, lighted building, or switch. The grommet prevented carpet unraveling and (to me, at least) it presented a "finished look" instead of a bare hole.  If/when I must move an accessory to another location, I can pry the grommet loose. The carpet fibers tend to close and cover the hole. I use a small hand-held vacuum (by Woodland Scenics) to spot-clean the green carpet - it will pick up drill shavings and carpet fibers.

It's all in the details ...

Mike Mottler    LCCA 12394

briansilvermustang posted:

 

       thank you George,  that is very nice !    maybe a possible video of it in action sometime...

          are there HO trucks under the bridge riding on the rails ?

         

I tried that, with HO trucks. They bound on me. So, I installed rollers/casters that roll along the tops of the track. Then, I installed a thin piece of brass sheet as a wiper to pick up the power from the pit track. Power to the center rail runs through the Lazy Susan. I don't have the tracks powered yet, but the turntable is operational. I'll try a video this weekend.

George

   thanks for the info George,  will be watching for the video...   great looking turntable !

Another note about the turntable... When I built the turntable, I didn't know much about them other than pictures I had seen. Since then, I have read more and learned that real life turntables use electric drive mechanisms. To get electricity to a rotating turntable, a bridge structure is installed over the track to carry the power. You will notice that my turntable does not have one of these (yet). That's a project for my list. I may change out the HO track when I tackle that.

George

Nice progress on the layout George.  Good to see someone building something instead of rehashing, trying to get the perfect design, then never getting anywhere.  Too much of that on here.  I always believe in getting a train running ASAP to keep the motivation going.  Keep going.  It is super cool already.

Cheers,       W1

Update on the turntable: I started replacing the HO track with a single rail of Gargraves. I removed the HO and lowered the casters that used to ride them to run on the pit base and I moved the wiper. 

The motor is giving me trouble. I may need to find a replacement for that at some point. I would like to put one in that is slow, steady and stops precisely.

George

I also made some progress on the rest of the layout. Most of the track is laid out and fed with a single feeder. I have test run trains on them but need to try my largest items to check clearance. 

George

             George,   your layout and turntable are looking great !      have a Merry Christmas !

briansilvermustang posted:

 

             George,   your layout and turntable are looking great !      have a Merry Christmas !

 

 

Merry Christmas to you too!

George

Here's a little note on the plans to create a more finished look. I'm not sure when this will get done, but it will eventually. Once the wiring is done and the layout is mostly set up, I'll finish the edges with pre-finished trim board from Home Depot. Behind that will be a rod (I am thinking about EMT conduit but am open to suggestions). From the rod will hang black drapes to the floor. I hear these are available for low cost from Amazon, but I need to check length. For a backdrop, I will use the blue sky bulletin board paper from Hobby Lobby. The backdrop won't be everywhere, because I plan to decorate some of the walls with train memorabilia like my Illinois Central framed print that is already hanging. I write this here not only to share my plans, but as a place to reference when I get to these parts.

George

I finished laying the single pit rail for the turntable. ( almost, I still need to spike a few more rails and or glue some track ties to the pit.) I also started the yard. I’m short some tubular track, so it’s time for a Menards run! 

George 

A little update...

The yard and engine complex are coming along.

I built a Bilt E Z building that can hold my Budweiser Miller Engineering sign. 

I bought some Plastruct to make the turntable electrical bridge.

Here is how the turntable moves. I have a momentary switch that I am pressing to give small bursts of power to the motor. (I apologize for my breathing. My allergies are in full swing.) The motor is powerful enough to turn the bridge, but it tends to slip and then surge due to variable table friction. Never build the pit base out of plywood like I did. MDF is much more stable and avoids warping. I will eventually take this motor off to check how freely the bridge turns and the decide on a better motorized mechanism, even if it is converting this to an indirect, geared drive.

George

Wow, that’s awesome George.  Nice work.  Your layout looks great.  Keep going!

Thanks William!

I’m starting to setup the harbor. Still lots of detailing to do, but I wanted to get the platform up and layout the accessories. The black slate is going to be a barge and I have a Marx tinplate tug to add.

George

George S posted:

Thanks William!

I’m starting to setup the harbor. Still lots of detailing to do, but I wanted to get the platform up and layout the accessories. The black slate is going to be a barge and I have a Marx tinplate tug to add.

George

I like this simple straight forward technique for a water scene.  You could add rocks to the foam edges but I suspect you will simply paint the foam and be done.  Nice job!

beardog49 posted:

Awesome, George. Contact me privately and I will tell you how to drill thru

the padding, John

@beardog49,  I would love some advice on how to drill through the padding without making a mess.

George S posted:

I finished laying the single pit rail for the turntable. ( almost, I still need to spike a few more rails and or glue some track ties to the pit.) I also started the yard. I’m short some tubular track, so it’s time for a Menards run! 

George 

George, this is really inspiring to watch you put this together - thanks for sharing as you go.  If I may ask, what is the make and radius of the switches in this picture?  Do you run any modern trains or are you a strictly tinplate guy?

jhz563 posted:

George S posted:

I finished laying the single pit rail for the turntable. ( almost, I still need to spike a few more rails and or glue some track ties to the pit.) I also started the yard. I’m short some tubular track, so it’s time for a Menards run! 

George 

George, this is really inspiring to watch you put this together - thanks for sharing as you go.  If I may ask, what is the make and radius of the switches in this picture?  Do you run any modern trains or are you a strictly tinplate guy?

As for the rocks, I was planning on just painting the foam. I have rock molds, but think adding too much detail will take away from the toy look that I am going for.

The switches are Merkur tubular switches from the Czech Republic. They are 900mm curve, which is equivalent to O72. They make smaller radius, but not bigger. Everything runs through them including Marx and modern. They are manual switch machines. I am working on making them electric. Merkur has a servo system to do it, but I didn’t go that route.

I will run a few modern trains. I have several, but am not planning to buy anymore, except for modern tinplate. (Unless Lionel tempts me with something unusual in their LionChief lineup. )

George

Yesterday, I scratch built an electrical bridge for my turntable. I’m glad they are still making Plastruct in the days of 3D printing.

I made a rotating piece on top to attach a wire to and will install a pole to run the wire.

George

I installed the power pole and electrical lines to the turntable electrical bridge.

I also added the Marx tugboat to the harbor and painted the rock.

George

I changed the name of the topic and added a date for best practice. This way as I update progress, you will see when the date changes.

George

Looks like you are having a great time, and your scratch building skills are terrific.  Thanks for sharing.

George S posted:

I changed the name of the topic and added a date for best practice. This way as I update progress, you will see when the date changes.

George

Thank You; Thank You; a 1000 times Thank You.  Only wish more serial-type thread starters (OPs) would adopt this thoughtful (for the thread's followers) simple device--it makes it so much easier to follow the project's progress.

George, as a suggestion, please include a BOM for the bridge and the source for its design.

Looks terrific.

Pingman posted:

George, as a suggestion, please include a BOM for the bridge and the source for its design.

Looks terrific.

Hi Carl,

That's complicated. The design came from my mind's eye after reviewing dozens of pictures of turntables I searched for on the internet and one HO RR modeler site where they built one. I then went to the LHS and searched for the materials. Plastruct had the parts that worked for me. I used ABS, but I didn't write down the size. I am referencing the catalog now. The ladders came only in a cage, which I now have two of for another project. They were labeled O scale. I used one 24" strip of channel. I used two 12" OPEN WEB TRUSS - WARREN STYLE 2 sections (I bought 3, but only needed 2).

I ended up cutting the Plastruct with a Dremel and trimming with an Exacto knife. I laid the pieces out on a board and drew the dimensions on the board as a guide. For the width, I was working with the width of the bridge deck. For the height, I decided to make the upright the height of a Lionel O gauge tunnel portal then create the angle from there. I honestly eyeballed the angle. The top plastic piece is cut out of a clear SD card holder and glued to the Plastruct with Gorilla Glue Clear Contact Adhesive. The tubular part on the top is a broken Dremel EZ Lock Mandrel. I glued the Plastruct together with Plastruct Plastic Weld. I had to read some blogs on how to use that. Once it was all together and I checked that it fit the turntable, I primed it with Krylon gray primer, then immediately top coated it with Rustoleum Satin Black.

George 

I got the 5 rail track installed on the upper level. Here are standard gauge and o gauge trains running on the same loop at the same time.

There is one major S curve and a couple of the 2800 series auto couplers don’t like it and derail. This is odd, because this is O42 and these should run in O31. I’ll need to get all my 2800 series cars out and find out which ones work. It started cooking (with smoke) the truck when it derailed!

Also, it’s always something, my AF side rods started binding. So, I had to temporarily remove them.

George

With a mix of DCS and conventional, I should be able to run 8 trains simultaneously on this layout, without running more than two trains on any loop simultaneously.   I am also planning on an overhead G gauge loop.

The 5 rail track is the hardest to run std and o simultaneously, because the DCS scale speeds are different. Therefore I have to manually adjust the speeds of each engine.

George

George S posted:

I got the 5 rail track installed on the upper level. Here are standard gauge and o gauge trains running on the same loop at the same time.

 

There is one major S curve and a couple of the 2800 series auto couplers don’t like it and derail. This is odd, because this is O42 and these should run in O31. I’ll need to get all my 2800 series cars out and find out which ones work. It started cooking (with smoke) the truck when it derailed!

Also, it’s always something, my AF side rods started binding. So, I had to temporarily remove them.

George

I tweaked the S curve and moved the cars that were binding. Maybe it was just a rail misaligned? It works better now. The track is not screwed down yet. I ordered some 1" screws that can make it through the track and the padding. I don't plan to use a lot of screws, and I won't be tightening them too much. They are really just to prevent shifting of the track. 

As for the American Flyer side rods. I patiently reassembled each side and made sure everything was straight and the engine works fine now. I think maybe the mount to the frame in front of the brass piping twisted a little.

I also got my turntable to rotate more freely by backing each caster off 1/2 turn. 

There is also a little loop of O27 on the upper level. There are three straights in the loop. I need to cut each of those in half to create a little more clearance. 

George

I received a Ross Standard Gauge switch today and installed it to create the harbor siding. I haven’t wired it yet. It looks like I have extra standard gauge track, so I may need another switch to create a small yard.

George

George S posted:

I received a Ross Standard Gauge switch today and installed it to create the harbor siding. I haven’t wired it yet. It looks like I have extra standard gauge track, so I may need another switch to create a small yard.

George

I have 4 072 ross's and they are flawless,,,,except my 380 with the large spur gear dosnt like them,,cant win them all  

George S posted:

I received a Ross Standard Gauge switch today and installed it to create the harbor siding. I haven’t wired it yet. It looks like I have extra standard gauge track, so I may need another switch to create a small yard.

George

That's an LGB switch drive.  You should get many years of service from it, especially indoors.  

George, it appears that switch has a movable point frog. I wasn't aware they had such a thing in the model/toy train world. The switch looks really nice. I've been watching your progress, your new layout is coming along great! I also have enjoyed your video updates as well!

Rusty

Looks great, George!! I hope you like your Ross SG switches as much as I like mine; they are worth every penny. 

John

George.  5 rail crossover. If I can hold it in the vise I can mill it.  would have to make a jig.  It would have to be sq. 90°. X and y.

riki posted:

George.  5 rail crossover. If I can hold it in the vise I can mill it.  would have to make a jig.  It would have to be sq. 90°. X and y.

Thank you. I’m not happy with the smoothness of my O/STD 90 degree crossover. It needs more work. It could be the base... I don’t plan on a 5 rail crossover. That would be very ambitious!

George

Diverging Clear posted:

George, it appears that switch has a movable point frog. I wasn't aware they had such a thing in the model/toy train world. The switch looks really nice. I've been watching your progress, your new layout is coming along great! I also have enjoyed your video updates as well!

Rusty

Yes, it does have a moveable point frog. I never saw it work before. It’s very cool. I’ll try to take a video. Also, it has a supplemental switch on the LGB switch machine. I think it throws connectivity of the center rail with the switch direction.

George

George S posted:

Diverging Clear posted:

George, it appears that switch has a movable point frog. I wasn't aware they had such a thing in the model/toy train world. The switch looks really nice. I've been watching your progress, your new layout is coming along great! I also have enjoyed your video updates as well!

Rusty

Yes, it does have a moveable point frog. I never saw it work before. It’s very cool. I’ll try to take a video. Also, it has a supplemental switch on the LGB switch machine. I think it throws connectivity of the center rail with the switch direction.

George

I wired the Ross switch.

Here is a video showing the moving frog.

George

Ribbit.  George, keep going.  Glad to see someone going at it like you are.  That looks like fun.  Enjoy!

George S posted:

George S posted:

Diverging Clear posted:

George, it appears that switch has a movable point frog. I wasn't aware they had such a thing in the model/toy train world. The switch looks really nice. I've been watching your progress, your new layout is coming along great! I also have enjoyed your video updates as well!

Rusty

Yes, it does have a moveable point frog. I never saw it work before. It’s very cool. I’ll try to take a video. Also, it has a supplemental switch on the LGB switch machine. I think it throws connectivity of the center rail with the switch direction.

George

I wired the Ross switch.

Here is a video showing the moving frog.

George

the only thing I would like is a lighted controller,,,but I check lgb page and couldn't find one ,any suggestions?

Thank you for the demonstration of your new Ross switch, George! I appreciate you taking the time to do that!

I think it is cool that Ross has that feature, it's something that is actually used on real railroads around the globe! 

I think it will reduce the chance of a derailment while running your trains on your new layout, keep the updates coming!

Rusty