Is anyone having issues with the rollers on the new L1 Mikado and Atlas switches? All of my switches are O-72 and the center rail creates a gap between it and the curved outer rail that it passes over as it goes through the switch. The roller drops into the gap and physically stops the engine cold. Are the rollers possibly too small for Atlas switches? This can occur on any switch either in reverse or forward. I have 30 other steam engines that do not do this on these same switches.
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Well, more than likely Lionel built the engine to specifically work with their house brand track. Ie; Fastrack,……so it’s up to us to come up with solutions to remedy issues like you’re having….can you fashion a styrene strip down in the section where it drops to make a “bridge”, but still be able to throw the switch?…..you’re gonna have to get creative to make the locomotive traverse your pike, …..unfortunately, it’s not Lionel’s job to make sure their engines run on every maker’s track, ……can you imagine the endless nightmares!….
Pat
@harmonyards posted:…..unfortunately, it’s not Lionel’s job to make sure their engines run on every maker’s track, ……can you imagine the endless nightmares!….
Well, if they were to push that to the limit, they might see it affecting the bottom line!
Back when we still had a layout, it was all Atlas solid nickel silver track & switches. The few Lionel steam locomotive models I had, gave nothing but tracking problems do to their pick-up rollers. I wound up changing each model's pick-up rollers to those that Sunset/3rd Rail use. Never had any more problems.
My L1s doesn't like backing through my #5 x-overs right now. The rearmost roller on the engine seems to want to wedge itself pretty good. I have yet to really look into it but I noticed the rear roller seemed to be able to twist a bit. I tweaked it straight and then seemed to be happy for a try or two only to wedge itself later. I will have to look into a bit more when I get a chance.
Thanks guys for your responses. I figured I was going to have to to place a non-conductor to bridge the gap in my switches and then it occurred to me. I could also tap the middle rail up a little closer to the interior of the switch and leave a little gap between the track that was attached to it but that would be difficult for me to do considering the $125 switch that I am bashing on because of Mikado rollers. Lol. Styrene or a simple piece of stained wood might do the trick. A little super glue too!
Yep,….use the K.I.S.S principle anytime you can,……😉
Pat