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Thank you Bill, Bob, Jay, John!

Yes, with the temperatures going up and down, I see Saturday cold, windy, and snow.  Today it is 53 degrees, and tomorrow's high is forecast to be 23 degrees with 3 to 6 inches of snow.  Other than snow removal, I hope to work on the layout scenery some.

BTW, the surgeon said there are no more lifting restrictions.  Theoretically, I should be able to lift as much as my arms and knees can handle, as long as I use proper lifting techniques.  I was getting concerned not that something was wrong with the fusion, but that something else was going bad.  They told me 3 years ago it takes a long time for the nerve to heal, and that it may never get back to what it once was.  I am thinking I will have the drop foot for good, but as long as I am careful, that is okay unless it hurts too much.

Glad to hear it seems to be manageable Mark. I hope the anti inflammatory med works well for you and you get some relief. I think adaptation is the key to life. I wish you the best possible outcome from all of this.

The building is coming along nicely, looks like a great kit.

Bentley is a handsome boy! We got our pup Benny in April of last year. He keeps us on our toes!

Andy

Thank you very much, Eddie!  Yes, like anything else, we have to make adjustments.  My Dad’s advice on working smarter, and not trying to man handle every job, certainly comes into play.

Last evening, I got 4 walls glued together and trimmed to size, the wall separating the two story section from the one story section.  I’ll try to get a photograph up after I put in the diving wall.

I finished assembling the walls of the station kit.  The kit had one piece of heavy stock for the gabled roof and thin pieces of cardboard for the hip roof.  I used the cardboard pieces as templates for heavy pieces similar to the one that was in the kit.  The instructions are sketchy, and don't mention the roof at all other than shingling, so I really don't know the kit maker's intent.  I'm going to add a length of wood for the peak of the gable for the roof pieces to rest on.

Here are a couple of photographs of the station with the walls assembled.

2022-03-14 20.04.402022-03-14 20.04.09

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Mark, that’s coming along nice. Have you thought of making the roof removable ?  If your doing lighting it may make things easier. The thing I struggle most with on kits is the roof and getting everything lined up and square. Clamps always don’t work and sometimes you need more hands than you have. Lately I’ve been using 1/4 x 4” wood as bracing. The big box stores have a hobby wood dept. I think selling poplar. I trace out the end wall and try to get a good match to the peaked end. On a long roof. I’ll make 3 of them . You will end up with sort of a triangle. Clamp one side to the wall nice and flush and run a bead of glue down the quarter inch piece  [try to keep the glue off the structure] and place one piece of the roof on and square it to the building. When the glue sets. It should stay somewhat in place. Then you can tackle the other side. When that sets you can add other braces. Some kits have you bevel the roof edges where they meet. I’ll be honest I’m not that good. I just let them butt up to one another. The small v groove that’s left. I find a metal rod [coat hanger] that can lay sort of flush down in there. Then run a bead of thin CA down each side of it. I tend to overbuild these things.

What I have found. Once you get a good fit with the roof. It’s so much easier to work on just the roof sitting at the table adding shingles and such. Not sure what they gave you for shingles in the kit. The peel and stick go on nice and are close to scale. It’s just the staggering price to buy them.

Dave, Excellent comments about building the roof.  No, I am not satisfied with the roof components that came with the kit, but I'm not being critical of the manufacturer.  I saw this same kit built in HO on a Western Maryland Rwy modeling Facebook group.  I commented it would be great in HO.  Jeff of Carolina Craftsman Kits contacted me almost immediately and asked if I would buy one if he made it in O scale.  I said I would, and was surprised that he had it ready in a couple days.  For all I know, he may have only made two, the one he built which he sent two photographs in the kit.  I realize it wouldn't take much to change the scale on the computer that drives the laser cutter.  That said, all the lasercut parts are really crisply cut, and it went together great.  I did have to trim that center two story wall a slight bit because I beveled a little too much off the two story full brick wall section.  That was my fault, not his.  It's a great kit.

As for the roof, I decided I'm going to buy some peal and stick shingles because the ones that came with the kit are thin paper that I would like to be a darker gray.  Yes, this kit will take a sizable amount of them.   Jeff suggests using 3M 465 double sided tape to stick the thin paper shingles on.  I know me.  I'll be tearing the thin paper too many times.    So, I may have the kit done and waiting for shingles.  Sounds like real life, doesn't it?

I have made all my roofs removable, so I can add lights and interiors later.  I have not made any effort yet to search for details for two stores, the signal tower, or two stations.  I do appreciate your suggestions, because I was thinking last evening, these two roofs will be quite light to be taking off.  Am I reading your method correctly?  Is there one 1/4" triangle on each end just inside the peaked wall and one in the center?  Other than the coat hanger wire, are the roof sections the only thing that is connecting the three triangles together?  I'm thinking I need wood for the roof sections themselves.  This card stock is 3/64" thick, and may bow.

Yes the 3 braces are cut to match the pitch of the roof. Will look like a stretched  out triangle when done. I still add 3/16 or 1/4 strips lengthwise if the roof material is thin between these. I tend to overbuild as far as bracing. The metal rod is there more or less just to smooth out the seam and give the 2 pieces of roof a solid thing to glue to where the seam is. I’ve also just filled it with a basswood strip and sanded it smooth. I have one in the works at home. I’m away for a bit otherwise I’d shoot a photo. Actually it’s been in the works for 2 years. I ordered the shingles after I finished it as I was getting a lot done during the pandemic. Went back to work and got sidetracked on other projects but am retired now so it’s on the slate to get done outside when the weather gets nice.

8974F30A-12C1-433F-92AB-4B73E110F9C4

I picked up some shingles at the Springfield show a few years back. I liked them and ordered a few more packs. They seem to sell close to the going rate for peel and stick.  I think I spent as much on the shingles as I did for the wood, windows and doors. Bollinger Edgerly Scale Trains. They are online based in NH.  It looks like you get a lot when you look at the package. Till you realize after you do the correct overlap the package goes quick. They have a good variety as well as colors. I usually just use tarpaper type roofs just to save some money. But certain structures such as a passenger station or in this case a milk station would only look right with shingles.

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Thank you Dave!  I never heard of Bollinger Edgerly Scale Trains.  I see they have some nice HO kits in addition to the shingles in 3 scales.  Yes, this station should have light gray slate shingles, and I would need 4 sheets; $48 plus whatever shipping and tax they charge.  Well, this model is worth it.

I think the 3/16 or 1/4 strips lengthwise would be needed for this model also.  Better to overbuild than underbuild and break one of the roofs when handling.  That is a nice building you pictured above!  Congratulations on your recent retirement.  I was given early retirement in late 2018.  In mid 2019, I got a part time job and needed off for a knee replacement right before the pandemic started.  I never went back.  We are doing fine.

The shingles even though they are peel and stick they are tedious to do a large roof. A crew of real roofers I think could knock out a house quicker than I can do a model. Pick a quiet dreary day.  Sit down and put on some music or for me a sports talk show and have at it. You will find yourself telling yourself. I’ll get one more row done and take a break. But for some strange reason you want to keep going and next thing it’s done.

Over 30 years ago I started out  building Gloor Craft kits. The structure was done and ready for shingles. It had a complicated roof. They did include paper shingles that had some adhesive. They came rolled up and being an older kit the adhesive didn’t work. Well I glued them on and got about 1/2 way up one side. Just didn’t have patience back then. I ended up tar papering the rest of the roof. Built a ladder and bought an Arttista figure kneeling with a hammer. Laid out some shingles beside the roofer from the kit and was done.

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Jeff, Thank you.  Ron did a nice video.  I did a lot of the same things on my Altoona station.  One thing I didn't do was add a couple other colors when I painted the shingle strips initially.  I did streak the completed roof for some weathering, but all my shingles look pretty much the same color.  I guess I could say the roof was shingled in the last year or two.  I'll try the different colors dry brushed on this upcoming roof.

Thank you Andy!  I have some sheet styrene also, but took Dave up on the 1/4 x 4 poplar today at Lowes.  A 4-foot piece will last for several buildings.  I also bought some 1x2 poplar and a 2x2 sheet of lauan to make a base for the station.  Right now, the place I plan to locate the station is on the upper level across from the wye out in mid air.    It's a prefect spot since the prototype had a walkway that had a railing on two sides to keep people from falling off it into the Black Fork.

Andy, this is where I mean.  The station will be located where the red caboose is sitting.  You can see a small clipping tacked to the roadbed.  The upper level benchwork extension will have to extend a couple inches beyond the benchwork below.  I think it will work out okay.

2022-03-20 14.47.03

This is the clipping in the photograph above.  This catalog advertisement for a painting of the Thomas, WV station is what I meant about the railing.

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@Mark Boyce posted:

I finished assembling the walls of the station kit.  The kit had one piece of heavy stock for the gabled roof and thin pieces of cardboard for the hip roof.  I used the cardboard pieces as templates for heavy pieces similar to the one that was in the kit.  The instructions are sketchy, and don't mention the roof at all other than shingling, so I really don't know the kit maker's intent.  I'm going to add a length of wood for the peak of the gable for the roof pieces to rest on.

Here are a couple of photographs of the station with the walls assembled.

2022-03-14 20.04.402022-03-14 20.04.09

I am just now completing this same kit. the instructions are difficult to follow because they are written for the HO scale kit.

@Mark Boyce posted:

Andy, this is where I mean.  The station will be located where the red caboose is sitting.  You can see a small clipping tacked to the roadbed.  The upper level benchwork extension will have to extend a couple inches beyond the benchwork below.  I think it will work out okay.



This is the clipping in the photograph above.  This catalog advertisement for a painting of the Thomas, WV station is what I meant about the railing.

2022-03-20 14.47.16

I can give you some tips and tricks when you are ready to do the railings Mark.....

2022-01-29 21.05.37

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I am just now completing this same kit. the instructions are difficult to follow because they are written for the HO scale kit.

David, I saw that the instructions are for the HO kit.  I'm glad to know someone else is building the same kit!!

@Steamfan77 posted:

Mark, that is what I assumed you meant 😁. Just my sense of humor. We have a tower locally that was raised up to meet the elevated tracks. That will be an interesting feature for sure. Can’t wait to see it.

Andy

Andy, I thought so, but had intended to take a photograph to post when I first mentioned the location, but didn't.    I would like to post some photographs of the B&O station that was in Evans City, Pennsylvania, but can't because I never took any of my own.  It was less than 10 miles from where I grew up and less than 15 from where I live now.  It was supposed to be the only railroad station in the US that was built over water.  Sadly, the railroad razed it in 1980, so the link says.   https://www.west2k.com/papix/evanscitypass.jpg  Wouldn't that we a challenging model to build.

@RSJB18 posted:

I can give you some tips and tricks when you are ready to do the railings Mark.....

2022-01-29 21.05.37

Bob, you did a great job!  You will know when I am ready for that.

I made a first try at assembling the cardstock hip roof for the two story part.  I just Scotch taped the 4 pieces together, and need to go back and get them positioned a little better, but here is the idea.  I also cut some triangles as Dave C suggested, so I am on my way.

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@Mark Boyce  was the station build over a creek?  At first I thought it may have been another rail line, but then decided that would not make a lot of sense.

Notice the cable bolted into the ends of the beams to add additional strength against bending on the floor of the station.  I imagine they could pretension the cable like pre-stressed concrete beams today to keep everything flat.

Thank you Andy and Jeff!

Yes, the Evans City station was built over Breakneck Creek.  I see the cable too.  I drive past the location every so often, and seeing the panorama, there was really no other place for a station.  I still find it intriguing that the Pittsburgh & Western, later B&O had a mainline through there with the reversing curves of the creek up against a hillside.  The town is on the other side of the creek.  As an added point of interest, there was such an oil boom in Evans City and the surrounding area, that I have seen photographs of the town with so many oil derricks, that there must have been one in every yard.  I recall the casing for one in the woods over the hill from my home where great-grandpa tried his luck.

I finished the bracing for the gable roof and redid the hip roof so it fits properly.  I see one gap, but the shingles will cover all that.  They are ready for paining the eaves.  I moved the station out of the way since I have the painted steps for 9 doors and the chimney drying on the rolling work bench.  I still find it less painful to work on it standing up with the benchwork about 4 inches above my waist.

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Thank you, Andy, Jay, George!!

I painted under the eaves yesterday.  I was looking at what to use for the base.  The kit just has 1/4 x 1/4 stripwood and some stone embossed plastic sheet material to cut to size.  I want a solid base to act as a floor and stabilize the building better when lifting it.

In the meantime, I started fitting some 2 x 1 poplar for brackets to hold the scenery base for the whole station scene.  I also printed some of the photographs I got from the Internet of the station.  I have a couple that show the walkway with the railing Bob pointed out.  One from 1907 shows a wooden railing, and one  of a later date shows a metal railing.  Also, I might note that the station was heavily damaged by a tornado in 1941.  The model is of the rebuilt, post 1941 station.  Prior to that, there was an awning around the 2-story part of the station.  Even more noticeable, is that the end of the 1-story part had a rounded wall and roof that forms a semicircle that really looked neat.  Since all my trains and vehicles fit into a 1950s steam-diesel transition period, the model is correct for the era.  I had posted these photographs in this thread at the time I was researching the concept of the layout.  However, when the OGR administrators pointed out we shouldn't be posting published photographs that aren't our own, I purged those photographs from the thread.  I'm going to do a little more research and see if I can come up with some links to post.

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