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Top fastening may be the weak spot in the Mianne system? I didn't do as nicely as you are doing, but I did add quite a few angle brackets, like the ones supplied with the original kit. As you, I was also a bit leary of the 4' spans and anywhere it looked like there was a gap between top and benchwork, and then a few more spots just for good measure. 

With the way you guys are going at it you should have maximum sound deadening and top notch stability when finished. I don't think vibration will be a problem there at all. Hopefully you will still be able to hear the trains coming...   

When assembling my first section of Mianne, I thought of the wide spacing of the top anchor brackets.  I'm not inclined to fasten it from the top, I will go the route RTR12 did and add some more underside anchors.  I intend to show my daughters and sons-in-law how this is fastened together.  Actually, I think they could figure it out since they are familiar with Ikea furniture.  I don't intend to leave a hefty mess for them to clean up and dispose of like my dad left us.  Though Dad is still living, he has been in personal care for 2 years, and we still have a long way to go on getting the house and property ready to sell.    I guess it boils down to, that is just the kind of guy I am (for better or worse - take your pick).  

We pretty much took the day off.  I had a little time in the afternoon so I did a few more blocks prepping for the fascia. A couple of these needed to be slotted for the joints under the layout, they all get glued to the surface, so they have to be flat to the table top. We have a lot more of these to put on yet.  I feel like the turtle, slow and steady wins the race.  Next week the hare will come back, then there'll be more progress!

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John thank you so much for the update. This is what I wanted to see being done or should I say how it was done. Now I have a question are you going to use a piece of thin flexible wood on there for the first layer? And if so then what will it be followed up by ? I understand the part that the next piece will be taller to cover the homosote but what will it be made of? Or from.

Here are the two pieces, they're both three-ply, obviously the inside piece is much thicker.  If you wet these, you can apparently make pretty tight corners with them, that's the plan for the corners on the layout.  This is Tom's design, so I'll be watching intently as this goes on to see how it's done in detail.  I'm trying to get all the blocks on so we can move to this step.

The thick one goes on and just comes up to the top of the plywood, the thin one also extends up over the Homasote and slightly below the thick one.  That's the "finish" piece, and I'll probably stain that one.

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The Mianne frame work is OK for it's designed purposes but has it's limitations.  The cross members are not designed to provide torsional support.  This form of deck installation exceeds the anticipated bench work use.

Yes the  fascia blocks go back to the Mianne frame members for a precise full depth 3 1/2" contact/interface.  At that point any downward force on the edge the plywood deck could be putting pressure on to the bottom cord of the Mianne cross member.  However this decking material has exceptional stiffness.  Very minor action expected

So....drum roll...if John could provide a photo.......There are precut, a series of back up blocks designed to be installed tight to the opposite side of each fascia block behind the perimeter Mianne cross member to assist in transferring force  to the bottom of the decking.

The Mianne perimeter frame becomes an inert sandwich core.    On overlapping Mianne deck installations the blocks have no attachment to the Mianne bench work.  the deck can be lifted off and the benchwork reused. 

The Mianne cross member, although weak torsionally has enough vertical strength to become the fulcrum for the cantilevered deck.  The rigid multi ply decking makes this very doable.

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