Skip to main content

For the curious, this is the process of bending the fascia on the tight bends.  I soaked the end of this in hot water for around five minutes, then it folded right around the point.  I'll leave it to dry, and I'm going to have a fan blowing on it to hurry the process.  Then I'll remove the formed piece and glue and clamp it in place permanently.

20210815_192655

Awesome John! Did you use door skin for this material?

Joe Gozzo

@Ron_S posted:

John, I have never been able to unpack all of the trains, there always seems to be just ONE more closet or nook with boxes, so your lucky if your room and shelves will handle your collection and let you peruse them with a cup of coffee and a remote in hand.

I harbor no illusions that everything will be on the shelves, only that I'll be able to get a lot of stuff out.   Of course, I'll have some of it parked in the new freight yard!

John, Your new yard extension has me sketching simple plans, I don't even know what my future train room dimensions will be yet and I know a large, maybe 2 yards are happening in the next iteration of my playroom. That and keeping possible expansion without major demolition are my priorities.

John, You still have a lot of room left!  The entire other side of the yard room then under the landing, behind the mechanical units and into the back work room 180 degree turn and through the door   then across your electronic repair area then reconnect to the main RR by the industrial chimney. 

Trust me, I have lots of future plans for you!

@Mark Boyce posted:

It sounds like Tom is running this project now John!  Repeat after me, “Yes Tom, whatever you say.  Yes Tom, whatever you say.”  😆😆

You bet, I'm not an idiot!   When the expert speaks, I listen.

He told me to buy spring clamps, so I did.  I even have leftovers! Good think they were on sale at Lowe's when I needed them.

20210816_16565720210816_165714

Here's the whole addition.

20210816_171631

Attachments

Images (3)
  • 20210816_165657
  • 20210816_165714
  • 20210816_171631
Last edited by gunrunnerjohn

The main benchwork being done, I got to looking at my proposed yard track spacing of 3.5".  OOPS!  The last track hangs over the edge over half an inch at the end!   That will never do!  I cut my spacing blocks down 1/10" to make the track spacing 3.4" and tried again.  Now the tracks all fit on the bench, and the spacing between the two locomotives in adjacent tracks is 3/4", looks good enough for me!

20210817_11581020210817_120249

Attachments

Images (2)
  • 20210817_115810
  • 20210817_120249

The main benchwork being done, I got to looking at my proposed yard track spacing of 3.5".  OOPS!  The last track hangs over the edge over half an inch at the end!   That will never do!  I cut my spacing blocks down 1/10" to make the track spacing 3.4" and tried again.  Now the tracks all fit on the bench, and the spacing between the two locomotives in adjacent tracks is 3/4", looks good enough for me!

20210817_11581020210817_120249

We found that two bay window cabooses had the most overhang. Might be worth testing out. Looks great!

Track spacing is simple enough on straight track but less so on curves. In John ArmStrong's TRACK PLANNING FOR REALISTIC OPERATION, he proposes that every layout builder create a table of standards for their layout and he give the formula or framework for each measurement--like distance between tracks under different circumstances. Creating that table was a valuable exercise for me. And it saved me from many mistakes. Worth your time.

Don

This was just a trial fit,I was curious if my 3.5" spacing was going to fit in the real world.  Good thing I tried it, no go!

When I do it for real, I'll space them all out, put a couple of screws in them and then move up the table for the next set.  The first three sections of track will be perfectly straight, when you get to the right hand side here, those will have some bends to mate up with all the switches.

___yard

Track spacing is simple enough on straight track but less so on curves. In John ArmStrong's TRACK PLANNING FOR REALISTIC OPERATION, he proposes that every layout builder create a table of standards for their layout and he give the formula or framework for each measurement--like distance between tracks under different circumstances. Creating that table was a valuable exercise for me. And it saved me from many mistakes. Worth your time.

Curves here in the freight yard will be less critical than on operating tracks.  Most of the curved sections will not be operated at the same time.  Also, the intent of the yard is mostly freight cars.  I won't try to park anything that doesn't fit in here.

As far as creating a table of standards, I think that ship has sailed for me, the track laying is done for the main platform.  Whatever mistakes I mad (I'm sure there's one or two), I'll have to either live with or fix.  One of the reasons for not rushing things like ballast is to get enough running to see if there are things that have to change before chiseling stuff in stone.

Attachments

Images (1)
  • ___yard
Last edited by gunrunnerjohn
@Tom Tee posted:

Are you using a snapped chalk line or the wall for the base line?

We could easily add a tapered filler on the side of the fascia at the end of the yard.

Tom, this isn't the "final" fit, only a trial run to see if everything fit.  It served it's purpose, I found out that the very tail end of the benchwork is a bit too narrow for the 3.5" spacing.  I just put 1" blocks to push the track off the wall that far, when it's time to actually fasten down the track, I'll indeed do a chalk-line to make the starting line consistent.

No need for the filler, the 3.4" spacing still leaves plenty of space for any normal cars or locomotives, so I'll just go with that.  Those tracks look so small there, hard to believe they're three feet long.

Note that all the clamps are gone, we have finished benchwork!

20210817_134409

Attachments

Images (1)
  • 20210817_134409
@Richie C. posted:

I think Tom might be on the right track (no pun intended).

The spacing between the wall and the first track might not need to be as great as the spacing between all the other tracks; especially if you use it to stage only your narrowest freight cars.

The extra space saved there could then be used to expand the spacing between all the other sidings.

I couldn't cut the wall to first track spacing enough to make up the difference, I looked at that.  I really do want a bit of extra room at the wall anyway.

Jim, the good thing about the freight yard is it will be storage under it, that's part of the attraction.

I'll also be putting display shelves on the 18 foot wall opposite the freight yard, that will give me around 250 feet of shelves.  The display shelves over the freight yard will give me another 72 feet of shelves.  That should allow me to get a bunch of stuff out and on display.

Hinges, locating pins, and support structure added to my freight yard access bridge. After the adhesive dries, I will add the front fascia, fill all the screw heads, etc. and paint it. I'll finally be ready to start laying track on the yard for real!

Yes, my consulting carpenter was on the scene, who knows what I would have ended up with if that was not the case!

20210908_19582120210908_19584920210908_195859

Attachments

Images (3)
  • 20210908_195821
  • 20210908_195849
  • 20210908_195859

Add Reply

Post

OGR Publishing, Inc., 1310 Eastside Centre Ct, Ste 6, Mountain Home, AR 72653
800-980-OGRR (6477)
CONTACT US
www.ogaugerr.com

×
×
×
×
Link copied to your clipboard.
×
×