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That is a sweet layout.  I like it!  Just keep going till you get the bugs out.  Nothing better than knowing you can walk up to your layout, flip a switch and everything works, and you have confidence it will work every time.  Keep your eyes on the prize.  That is your motivational message for the day.  No charge.

Cheers,       W1

Last edited by William 1

Thanks.   My plan is indeed to work out any oddities with the switches before pressing forward with more changes.  I think if I get the lighter springs for the few that are having switch machine stall issues, and get my new relay boards installed, I should have any remaining switch problems licked.

I did go around with my Dremel with the Cratex wheel and polish all the points, that actually helped smooth the transit through a number of the switches, there were some burrs on them that sometimes would catch a wheel.  I suppose if you run enough they get worn off, but I'm wanting them gone before then.

The parts I was polishing was the end point on the metal rails, the common rails are usually the ones that can pick a wheel.  I also had one switch that the rail was not ground at all like they normally are, that one took a bit of grinding and then polish to get it right, it was derailing things at any speed because there was a huge "bump" as the wheel hit the rail head on!

Finally got started on my freight yard extension, the first steps.

The astute observer will notice this is a hybrid build, some of the beams are Mianne, and others are home brew.  I had some of the necessary beam sizes and the legs, but the 30" cross beams were not in house.  Since I didn't want to wait, they're made from scrap 3/4" lumber, plywood and pine.  They were cut to the same size as the Mianne beams would be, and they're secured with screws through the legs.  They'll support the top just fine and I didn't have to wait a couple months for the missing Mianne parts.

As with my other benchwork, I'm leaving the open front for storage under the layout.

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Last edited by gunrunnerjohn

Very nicely done, @gunrunnerjohn!  I believe you have some carpentry skills lurking as well. The upper level, while minimal, really blends with the boundaries of your layout. I know Tom helped quite a bit on the main layout but if I'm not mistaken the upper deck was all your handy work. The transition to the upper level cut into the homosote must really smooth out that transition. I'm taking notes.

You may have commented before on this but do you notice much difference in sound level on the upper deck without the homosote and only the foam roadbed?

John,  When you layout the deck material for the yard would you still have in the back of your mind to be considering an engine servicing yard on the opposite side of that portion of the room?

If so Maybe build in a node for an abutment like we did on the main layout corner.  Plus another node on the opposite corner to provide a parallel edge for an lift out abutment. Maybe an asymmetrical sweeping curve to connect the two nodes?  Something like:



IMG_9119

I could stop over with some templates and long flexible lath to lay this out.

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Last edited by Tom Tee
@Tom Tee posted:

John,  When you layout the deck material for the yard would you still have in the back of your mind to be considering an engine servicing yard on the opposite side of that portion of the room?

If so Maybe build in a node for an abutment like we did on the main layout corner.  Plus another node on the opposite corner to provide a parallel edge for an lift out abutment. Maybe an asymmetrical sweeping curve to connect the two nodes?  Something like:

IMG_9119

I could stop over with some templates and long flexible lath to lay this out.

Always open to expansion possibilities, and perhaps a consultation before I stick the top on would be useful.

@Lehigh74 posted:

Not sure if it was mentioned before, but I’m wondering how you will connect the yard to the main layout.  Lift out? Drop down?  Also curious if you will use a Ross 4 way for the yard.

I'm considering a hinged section, don't know if it will drop down or hinge up.  I have two Ross 4-way switches for the eight tracks in the yard, they'll be fed by the two tracks coming off the main layout table.

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Dan, the upper deck is indeed noisier, and I'm going to be addressing that.  I have several ideas on the noise suppression, we'll see.

Looking forward to having the extra yard space, still some miles to go. 

Thanks for making that mistake before I did!   I'll cross that off my plans.

Always open to expansion possibilities, and perhaps a consultation before I stick the top on would be useful.

I'm considering a hinged section, don't know if it will drop down or hinge up.

Ever consider a corner table on castors? Swing open sideways. I'm sure Tom will have a plan.

Thanks for making that mistake before I did!   I'll cross that off my plans.

Yep, I was pretty sure it would be noisier, but I think putting some sound block material on the underside will tame it a lot.  In any case, right now it's not nearly as loud as Fastrack!

Ever consider a corner table on castors? Swing open sideways. I'm sure Tom will have a plan.

I think swing open sideways would be more complicated than simply a bridge between the two.

I'm considering a hinged section, don't know if it will drop down or hinge up.  I have two Ross 4-way switches for the eight tracks in the yard, they'll be fed by the two tracks coming off the main layout table.

If you are going for a drop down or hinge up, I highly recommend you read Mr. Barrett’s Backshop column in OGR Magazine April/May 2014.  I copied his design and it had worked well.

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Last edited by Lehigh74

I have eleven bridges most over access ways some which are wired with mechanical provision to be lifted out but I choose not to.  I simply position a roll away chair or stool under the track and swing back and forth.  Simplicity makes my day.

One example,  The height of the lifted bridge and the seat position work perfectly:

Tortoise & Lionel lift 002

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How-a-bout the two track lift out becomes a four track lift out?  I am concerned about how much length the dual 4 ways will consume.

If the lift out was four track the each track would only need one switch on the other side.  And the tracks can be splayed.  They do not have to be parallel on the bridge.  The bridge could be keystone in shape.  Even wrap around the nose like so:

Brad's lift out track pieces installed 013

Maybe even chop up a 4 way to free the switches.

A tri-wye arrangement of three curved switches can make  4 sidings out of one feeder as below:

lift out overall 005

There are always custom made three rail turnouts:

IMG_6739

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Last edited by Tom Tee

Plans change...

The yard is under construction, but it got changed up.  Gone are the two 4-way switches and they were replaced with a bunch of #6 switches and a "Y" that allow a configuration with longer usable yard tracks.  The switches will actually be pushed back to the main table or on the bridge section, the whole 12 foot yard will now be usable track space.  Also, the yard went from 8 tracks to 9 tracks.

The "final" (I hope) Freight Yard configuration.

Freight Yard [Final)

Ripped up my recently laid yard leads and hacking at the brand new layout surface!

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The weapon of choice to cut Homasote without making a mess.

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Time to do some damage, the Homasote in this section has to go!

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Cleanup of the surface after removing the Homasote and screws.

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The start of the extension of the main platform to mate with the upcoming bridge.

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The appropriate curve cut and cleaning up the edge.

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Final cut of the edge that will mate with the bridge.

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We need support at the bridge end, that's the 2x4 that's sticking out.  That will be built up further, to provide support for the bridge section.

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The final shape of the main layout table extension.  This will get the same fascia treatment as the rest of the table, coming soon to a layout near you.

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More work today, made some nice progress.

Dropped the wood on and this is the process for creating the curved edges.

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After the tracing, fire up the jigsaw and cut to our edge design.

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This is a very valuable piece of real estate, a signed Tom Tee layout!

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Tom insisted that we add a little bump-out "just in case" I decide to stick an O72 curve to yet more benchwork and who knows what!

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I figured I'd better disown the idea, my better half might not be amused.

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We trace all the cross-members from below, then turn over the sheets and drill small holes.  This allows us to map out on the top where the beams are to nail down the top.

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Next step is to route the Homasote edge after applying it, getting ready for the support blocks and fascia to be added.

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All cleaned up, I have to add a couple hundred screws and then apply the filler to create a smooth surface.

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This is the lip that the removable bridge will rest on, before fitting the bridge, we'll add the J-channel to protect the edge of the Homasote so it won't get dog eared.

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