O60 Fastrack Switch Blade adjustments

This seems to be a “feature” of Fastrack switches.  I have had to adjust most of mine to keep locomotives and rolling from picking the switch.

You will notice on the inside of the rail just before the moving rail there is a bump.  The idea is to keep the wheel out is it doesn’t pick the switch.  You will also notice that the moving rail sticks out from behind the bump on some switches.  Use a small pair of pliers gently bend the tip of the moving rail so that it doesn’t stick out.  These parts are fragile so be careful.  I’m sure Trainworld would exchange the switch for you but, it is very likely the next switch will have the same problem.  This part of Fastrack switches should be re-engineered but I doubt that Lionel is even looking at it.

Had the same wobbly point rail problem with a new O60 a few months ago.  Opened the switch and found the screw at its pivot had fallen out.  Re-installed and tightened, works fine now.  Also carefully did as Dan mentions, and on some switches ground (very carefully) a thinner switch point tip as other forum members have shown.

Thanks for the advice, I will take a closer look today, I found it after midnight, and as you all know nothing good happens after midnight!

So as the train enters the lantern side of the switch, the swivel blade on the left doesn't meet up with the left rail, but the left rail is also not set flat, if you look at the side of it, the rail is actually leaning left.  I would have to bend and twist the the swivel blade and/or try to bend the rail to straight. 

Ended up not having a lot of luck adjusting the two I bought from Trainworld, had to return them, I also bought two from a shop over an hour away from me, and they too have issues but look loads better (shown).  That store has very limited hours and plenty of stock on most everything, I think I can get those two work, but I need to set up a vice (Just moved) to to be able to try and gently bend the swivel rails.  They need to be bent further back in order to maintain a longerflat contact with the rail to ensure that the wheel can't hope a short gap and still derail after it jumps.

That is a big gap.  No good will come from trying to bend the rail that much.  If the opposite rail fits tightly, it might be that the rack and pinion are off by a tooth.

While I like these switches, there are too many problems with the switch rod and points which are poorly engineered.  This is the most important part of the switch but it is made of plastic, soft metal and poorly fitting rivets. The life expectancy of these is way less than 022 switches of the ‘50s.

I will check the stop of the rack and pinion and see if I can make it better.  Otherwise my thought was trying to bend the rail somewhere in the 3 4 ties "North" of the slider.