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The BEST out there. The early CREE bulb with the rubberized coating on the bulb made a buzzing sound when dimming, but they have corrected that on their newest bulbs.

If you're going to retrofit 4 shop fluorescent shop lights - consider the Hyperikon LED tube:

Hyperikon

For anyone working under the table needing a headlamp, these are the best for under $10 :

Cree Headlamp 18650

And the 18650 can be found in just about any laptop battery pack.

Gilly@N&W posted:

How do they work? Unscrew the incandescent bulb and screw in the LED.

We use them through-out the house. FWIW, we have seen a reduction in the monthly electric bill. I really didn't care for the ice cream cone CFLs, but I have to admit that I really like the LEDs.

But if you look at the link you see this:

✔ LAMPHOLDERS INCLUDED. Includes 4 complimentary lampholders. Connect power to one end of the tube only.

Implies you have to rewire fixture. 

I am starting to re-lamp home as incandescents go out, which is un-screw then in new bulb, but the led tubes seem another animal, at least this brand.....

rrman posted:

So how do these LED tubes work?  Looking at the link, appears you have to rewire the fixture so power is at one end only.  Can't just plug and play replacement.

rrman- Every manufacturer is different. Most fluorescent to LED tube retrofits require re-wiring of the fixture and by-passing the ballast. The LED tubes need 120 V at the sockets and they convert the voltage internally. There are some out there that are direct replacement but then you are still running (and wasting) power through the ballast which draws typically 30-40 watts.

Pull them out of the fixtures and clip the wire leads off and re-use the wire for your layout. Recycling at its best.

RSJB18 posted:
rrman posted:

So how do these LED tubes work?  Looking at the link, appears you have to rewire the fixture so power is at one end only.  Can't just plug and play replacement.

rrman- Every manufacturer is different. Most fluorescent to LED tube retrofits require re-wiring of the fixture and by-passing the ballast. The LED tubes need 120 V at the sockets and they convert the voltage internally. There are some out there that are direct replacement but then you are still running (and wasting) power through the ballast which draws typically 30-40 watts.

Pull them out of the fixtures and clip the wire leads off and re-use the wire for your layout. Recycling at its best.

Thanks. For me to rewire is no brainer, having electrocuted myself numerous times over the course of my long electronics/electrical career!   Just thinking about those who might consider themselves electrically challenged and following those translated chinese directions of the procedure.

rrman posted:

So how do these LED tubes work?  Looking at the link, appears you have to rewire the fixture so power is at one end only.  Can't just plug and play replacement.

The 4' LED tubes need further study before purchasing. If you Google the maker Hyperikon you will find (as others have said) that they have all different kinds, some using ballasts, some using no ballasts, some wired at both ends, some at one end, different numbers of LEDs etc.

What I was wondering about the included lamp holders was if maybe the size was different, like T8 instead of T12, etc. Many of the listings (I did the Google search yesterday) say the LED tubes are for T8, T10 & T12 and I haven't yet gotten that part figured out? All I have ever had was T12 so I don't know it the end pin spacing is different between the sizes or what? I know the T8 is smaller diameter than the T12 and that's about it. Still learning on that part.

rtr12 posted:
rrman posted:

So how do these LED tubes work?  Looking at the link, appears you have to rewire the fixture so power is at one end only.  Can't just plug and play replacement.

The 4' LED tubes need further study before purchasing. If you Google the maker Hyperikon you will find (as others have said) that they have all different kinds, some using ballasts, some using no ballasts, some wired at both ends, some at one end, different numbers of LEDs etc.

What I was wondering about the included lamp holders was if maybe the size was different, like T8 instead of T12, etc. Many of the listings (I did the Google search yesterday) say the LED tubes are for T8, T10 & T12 and I haven't yet gotten that part figured out? All I have ever had was T12 so I don't know it the end pin spacing is different between the sizes or what? I know the T8 is smaller diameter than the T12 and that's about it. Still learning on that part.

rtr12- the pin spacing is the same on T12, 10, and 8. The diameter of the glass tube is different. The sockets are the same but can be wired differently. As I said earlier every situation is different. Follow the wiring diagram included with the LED tubes. The major change when T8's were introduced was the switch from magnetic ballasts for T12's to electronic ballasts for T8's. It was a major energy saver when introduced to the market.

Bob

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