Port Elderley

Great job!!

The way to make the modules is simple but very nice and certainly very solid. 

I will follow this topic very carefully!

The tug boat is amazing!

See you soon

Thank you!

Next, I turned the modules over.

And added the gussets and the blocks which will carry the curtain spring wires.

and support blocks for the cross beams.

Back up the right way, adding the noggins.

Now I'm adding the sea areas, using 3 mm MDF.

Now the 16 mm MDF sea walls.

Which are covered with Scalescenes paper brick and other effects.  They download as HO, but when I printed them, I changed the settings to 200%.

The walls were masked off and sprayed with matt black from a rattle can.  Then neat PVA was spread along the bottom and Woodlands Scenics Fine Turf Burnt Grass was blown on to it from a piece of folded card.

Then I took some 1/2 inch Meranti dowel and scratched it with an Olfa 450 draw knife to simulate cracks in the piles.  My reference photos show piles to be a light grey colour, so I painted them white and washed them with black until they looked right.  Then I painted the bottoms to the same height as the matt black on the walls; then rubbing isopropyl alcohol into the top of the black paint to dissolve it and make a transition.

Adding more Fine Turf Burnt grass over PVA.

That's the photo you saw on the other thread.

Are you still with me?

Cheers

"Are you still with me?"

With framework like that, you bet.

I don't the wood legs on mine. The steel & mig is here

Any idea of the weight per frame on those?

 It seems like they would be pretty light.

Thanks for showing this off Max  

Thanks.

I've built several layouts using that system.  I don't have a way of weighing them, but I can lift them individually OK.  The main thing is that they don't twist or move.  When I get the track on them it stays put.

When I sold my other layouts, they were easy to transport in modules.

It's a pleasure.

It's only 9 pm here, so I'll put up a few more pickies in a minute.

Cheers

OK  On we go . . .

Here's the inside row of piles.  I made the joins in the brickwork line up so the piles are in front of them.  Lots of lateral thinking with the clamps and braces - including a couple of old laptop batteries. 

There will be 39 bents.

Looks OK.

So now there is a new row of piles to be made with hoops on the tops.  40 of these because the last one is against the wall by the slipway.

The other side.

The outer edge has 25 x 25 mm angle aluminium which has been trimmed down with the multi-tool so that the "sea" will only be 6 mm deep.  Sorry about the metrics.

The whole of the top deck has now been secured and the slipway has been clad.

I made a mock up of the proposed construction of the bents, which you can see on the right.  Work is progressing.

That's a better shot.

All of the 39 bents are done.  Phew!

Max,  I think I have the same boat kit. Mine is a Artesania Latina model 20201 AMSTERDAM ocean tug boat. It is 1:50 scale with a length of 1060 mm = 41 3/4 inches. I bought a Radio Control set for it too. 

Like you, I too have not finished building it. I stopped when I had to drill into the plastic hull for the drive shaft to the prop. That was 2 years ago!!!! Do you know if and where ballast weights should be placed in the hull? I think I should install them prior to installing the electric motor mount. I did get all the superstructure completed. Have to finish the build.

Your layout modules look expertly designed and built. And your sea wall and dock area is very impressive.

Paul Goodness

Max,

This is is very impressive. Your clean photos and descriptions make everything look and seem so effortless (!) and I love your attention to detail and precise execution.

I've been researching the intersection of Pittsburgh, PA river tug boats, barges, and railroads and will follow your progress with great interest.

Thanks for posting.

Tomlinson Run Railroad

Superb work and craftsmanship. Beautiful detailing and planning. Cannot wait to see the water.

WOW!!!  Absolutely fantastic!  PLEASE keep the updates coming....what a build!

Alan

Thanks, guys.

Paul, I rescued the kit half built and pulled it apart and then rebuilt it to where you see it.  Yes, it's same Amsterdam.  I've got the motor in, but I still have to cut the hull for the bow thruster.  Bow thruster?  You can tell I'd be drummed out of the proto club. 

With regard to the ballast, I figure I'm going to get it built and then use small bags of shot placed around the inside, while it's floating in my bath tub; to get it to sit on its marks.

Meanwhile, it will be a front drop for my railroad.

It's after midnight here, so I'll post some more of the story tomorrow.

Cheers

Max.

Fantastic work. It is very inspiring.

Alan Graziano

Thanks, Alan.

I'm glad that you like it.

Paul, here's a shot of how I've configured the motor drive.

I bought a 10 kg bottle of Winchester size 9 shot which I plan to decant into bankers' coin bags.  The floors are screwed in, so some of the bags can go underneath them.

I hope that helps a bit.

Cheers

Now for a bit of a trip around the wharf.

Here's the bottom of where the slipway will be.

I've started to cut in for the ladders.

The tyres are from Don Mills.  I pushed a Peco track pin up from inside and bent it over to make a hook.  The chain is cheap jewellery chain from the Op Shop where Wendy volunteers once a week.  I sprayed it with grey etch primer.

I painted the oak beams with several coats of water to make the grain stand up.  It's a trick I learned from an old French Polisher.

The timbers are from the local hardware store.  They carry lots of small sections for trimming.

I try to model from reference photos.  Here's one sent to me by a friend in Vancouver, taken on a recent sailing trip on his boat.

It's been one of my most valuable reference shots.  Most of the timber here is Cedar (I know- what a waste, but they have plenty of it).  However, you can see how white timber becomes after a while in the elements, if it's not treated.

I also have reference photos of local wharves which also show the same whitening.

So I began by painting the timber with Golden paints Titanium white, and then washed it with a thin black wash until it looked right.  It's hard to get an accurate shot as I had to light underneath with extra lamps.

This should show the process a bit better.  I have a range of track pins with various sized heads, which I used for the "bolts."    I didn't bother putting bolts in the ties at the bottom, as you can't see them for the black paint.  The hoops are circles of copper wire soldered and painted.

Because I still have an HO brain, I keep going back and checking the context to make sure that it still looks "right."

This layout plan will be John Allen's "Timesaver."  Because the table is only 5.1 metres (16'6"), long it will provide hours of shunting fun.  The centre module will have all of the turnouts, so I've made paper templates using the Templot software developed by my friend Martin Wynne; ready to start building.

Module one has the three head shunts.  The straight ahead one may possibly continue a bit further into the hinterland behind the docks, but the others will stop short.   They are in the form of a gauntlet (sometimes known as a gantlet).

The ties are PCB cut specially for me by a firm in Melbourne and are scale 9'6" x 12"  As the whole of the wharf area will be paved, there is no need for details to be added.  On the other side of the layout, there will be a track running the full length of the board.

Because the layout will also be able to be computer controlled by Railroad & Co software, I need a Profiling Track.  That consists of at least three contiguous Blocks, the middle one being at least a metre long.  At least half of that track will be able to be detailed.  That should be enjoyable.

Back later, after breakfast.

Pay attention up the back, there will be a quiz later. 

Cheers

I'd better finish it off and bring it up to date or I'll lose track of where I was. 

The last section is about installing the tugboat into the base board.

First the hull is covered with cling wrap.  Then newspaper is laid up using PVA al la mode papier mache.

About five layers of newspaper, then a lattice work of cereal box cut into strips, then about another five layers of newspaper.

The mould is then laid on the baseboard for marking out.  A 6mm keelson has been glued on for stiffening - and for support underneath.

The base board is cut out using the multi-tool shown before.  The boat is inserted and the mould is glued in place using PVA.

The underside bracing supports it from below.

The outside edges of the mould are painted with the same antifouling colour as the hull.  There was some over-spray, so I went a bit crazy. 

Now the boat sits in place.  The line at the top of the mould marks the top level of the "water." 

That brings us up to date after three months of working on it.

I hope you've enjoyed the ride.

I've matched the sea bottom colour to my reference photos and now I'm researching realistic water effects.  I'll be back when I've made a breakthrough. 

Cheers

Great, great work! it was a fantastic idea to create a thread for this stunning layout! 

jpv69

Nice thread!

Dave

Thanks, guys.

I know that it's been like drinking from a fire hydrant for you, but I've caught up and the posts should be at a slower pace from here on.  

Now, where's my Magic Water? 

Cheers

Inspiring! I'm really enjoying your thread, especially making the boat removable. Please keep posting pictures.

I also just wanted to share my model ship ballasting experience.  For some smaller models, I used modeling clay molded it into the bottom of the hull and then pushed the lead shot or other weights into it.  I did a good job of keeping the weight where I placed it.

Thanks IHM

Thanks for the tip on the modelling clay.  It all helps. 

Here's one of my reference shots for the water . . .

I've watched about a hundred videos and scoured dozens of threads elsewhere, but I haven't yet been able to replicate it.

The challenge is the rows of swells.  I've marked them in this next photo.

My wife Wendy, is an artist so her studio is an Alladin's cave of stuff to play with.  I've tried gesso, acrylic gel medium, Mod Podge, PVA, you name it. 

My next test board will have the swells built on to the board first, then PVA or Mod Podge for the wavelets.  I know that it's not prototypical - but it might be the answer.

I'll post a photo.

Cheers

I've had a lot of luck using Mod Podge to paint on waves. I haven't tried anything with as much relief as you are looking for, but I don't see why it wouldn't work.

Also, are you familiar with the work of the Sweedish modeler (and painter) Troels Kirk? He is the master of ocean water, and has documented his methods thoroughly.  Do a search for "Coast Line RR"

Great job!

Layout is aw-sum.

Please keep posting as you go the scenery and building are top notch.

Love the boat as I m into scale RC scale steamboats and electrics.

Great idea to use the boat with the layout and to have it ready for RC use in a pool/pond.

As far as ballast, I always use the large battery (that will fit) for ballast then trim with lead.

Bow trusters work great. On my steam I use a kitchen rudder for reversing and idling.

KEEP POSTING.

Thanks, Guys.  Most appreciated.

The problem I have with PVA (and Mod Podge - which is PVA based), Pete - is the bubbles.  If I heap it up to make the swells, the white bits finally set up with bubbles trapped in it - part of the drying out process.

So I'm going to make the swells first - probably out of plaster, and see how that goes.

I think I've seen Troels Kirk's work, but I'll do another search and see if I can steal some of his ideas. 

Cheers

I have to ask, Ron.

What is a kitchen rudder?  I've been through our kitchen, but Wendy just gives me one of those looks when I ask her.

Kitchen Rudder: invented in the early 20th century by John G.A.Kitchen of Lancashire, England. It turns the rudder into a directional thruster, and allows the engine to maintain constant revolutions and direction of drive shaft rotation while altering thrust by use of a control which directs thrust forward or aft. Only the rudder pivots; the propeller itself is on a fixed shaft and does not.                                                          https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Kitchen_rudder

I use two servos, one to turn right and left and the other to open and close the rudder. The boat can turn in it;s own length and can steer going in reverse with a single screw. Unfortunately the steam launch is 36 inch long with a 12 inch beam and the scale is 1/12

If uou are interseted I can take a picture of the rudder from the back and inside where the servos are connected. The boat is all scratch built including the boiler and engine.

Excellent!  Thanks, Ron.

Probably where the jet boat idea came from.

Cheers

OK  I've watched Troels' video a multiplazillion times since breakfast. 

Thanks again for the heads up, Pete. 

I just happen to have one of those nifty trowels in stock and I've been able to source the Liquitex Gloss Super Heavy Gel from my wife's art supplier.  The excellent news is that it is on special if I buy on line - which I did.  A$35.00 for 950 ml. 

What was evident as well is that if I want to incorporate swells into it, I'll have to contour the bottom.  It's cheating and very "non-proto" but if it works . . .

Now to make a test box.  I'll post the pickies as I go.

Cheers

Test box.

The dams at the side are 6 mm (the same as the layout), and the semicircular one represents the stern of the boat.

We have a product in Oz called Gyprock.

https://www.google.com.au/sear...cUVriHAsa30gS5jpyYDw

I think that it's called dry wall in the US.  Well, I've got a tub of the jointing paste which I use for land forms (and now water forms), which I've used to create the swells.

Once its set up, it can be carved and sanded very easily.

When it dries, I'll finish shaping it and then paint it with the bottom colours.

The gel should have arrived by then. 

This is the effect we got at my club using heavy duty aluminum foil. We crumpled it up and then spread it out flat. After paint and varnish we drybrushed some of the peaks white. Don't know about the swells though.

Outstanding build!!!!!!!

Interesting, Pat.  That seems to have worked OK.

Thanks, Don.

Max,   Thank you for posting the photo of your tug boat motor mounting. It is very helpful. I was thinking of using pieces of re-bar rod for ballast held in place with silicone caulking. I just have to get up the nerve to drill that hole in the hull for the drive shaft.

Very clever paper-mache support for the hull. Nice way to hold it at the water line. Your work is inspirational. 

Paul Goodness

Thanks, Paul.

You will need a lot of weight to get her to sit on her marks.  A couple of guys in our club have built Amsterdams and I think they said they needed 7 kg.  If that's the case, steel won't cut it.  We'll need lead - or gold!  Maybe lead. 

That's one of the reasons I've gone for the big gel battery.

Cheers

Max,  I have not mastered that turning lead into gold thing yet. Yes, lead it will be for me too. 

Paul Goodness

Good idea. 

While I've been waiting for the bog to set up, I've done some more ties . . .

The first of the throw bars has also been installed, using the ties from the other road as trunking for the 1 mm piano wire,

It's slow, backbreaking work; so I do it in bits and pieces.

. . . and a few more . . .

I tried to photograph the plaster waves before I painted them, but no dice.

Too much reflection.

Here they are after painting . . .

Even then I've had to heavily side light the tray to get any sort of shot.

Also, now I can see all of the blemishes I couldn't see before.  Lesson: Side light the plaster when sanding it.

It's very soft and easy to sand - indeed the final smoothing was done with just my finger.  Now I'm set for a life of crime - no fingerprints! 

The gel should arrive tomorrow, so we'll see what kind of a fist I've made of it.

Cheers

This layout will certainly be wonderful, sure! 

Don't forget the seagulls!

jp

I'll order some in, JP. 

Cheers