Port Elderley

Alan Graziano posted:

Max,

The Port just keeps looking better and better. Great modeling.

Alan Graziano

Hi Max & Alan

I will second this motion. "Great modeling" & "Great model photography".

Gary 

Max, great looking work, but I have to ask you a question as I have never seen anything like it before. Are there really places where tracks would be laid down below where water would cover them when the tied comes in?

Thanks, Guys.

Yes, Mike.  The cradle is completely submerged - except for about a foot of the vertical arms; so the boats can be floated on.  Then the boat is tied to the front arms and the winch pulls it up.  As the boat comes out of the water, the rear arms are roped off as well.

I've taken a bit of licence with the slope - hoping that once the water covers the track, it will look like the parallax effect is tricking the eye into thinking the underwater part of the track actually is steeper.

Time will tell.  It's all experimentation. 

Very cool, I cant wait to see it!!!!

trainroomgary posted:

Alan Graziano posted:

Max,

The Port just keeps looking better and better. Great modeling.

Alan Graziano

Hi Max & Alan

I will second this motion. "Great modeling" & at "Great model photography.

Gary 

Make that three!

Make that 4. Great workmanship and what is truly impressive when its not available you make it. That's what this hobby is about!

Thanks, guys. 

I appreciate your kind words.

Very good Max 

Thanks, Clem.

I can't move past these derelict piles.  They just don't look right to me.

I'll have another go . . .

Hmmm.

Hi there Max, looks like you have artist block. LOL Maybe some rope near the top of them, maybe a seagull, I know you will figure it out, but I think it looks good!

Just a thought, Max, and given the time difference it may be a moot suggestion.  How about lightening them a little bit.  I suggest this because they are visually in the foreground compared to the other piles.  You might mash the wood at the tops of the pilings out a bit more because they are exposed to the elements more than the ones against the retaining wall.  They also are more likely to get hit or bumped while wet, and thus are more vulnerable.  Or, they may be fine as is and you just need to see it with fresh eyes (hard to tell from the photo).

Regardless of what you decide, I suspect that once the water goes in ... ah, down under ... you'll be a happy fellow. 

I don't want this journey to end.  It's great fun following your "master work".  Did you ever post how you made the weather instrument that I don't dare try to spell this early in the morning?  (No need for a detailed video, just a broad background explanation? It was visually awesome and I loved how fast it could spin when a real ocean storm whips up.)

And speaking of which, I was in Maine recently driving by a bay with small white caps and deep grey green water.  I immediately though to myself, "That reminds me of Max's early experiments with the ocean water. He got the color down perfectly."  True story. 

Tomlinson Run Railroad

Thanks for the helpful comments, Mike.  All good ideas.  The beauty is that because of the nails, I can pop them in and out and spin them around to look at them.  I've got some reference photos as well.  I think I'm really close. 

Thanks, TRR for your kind and helpful thoughts as well.  I'll take it all on board.

I'm pretty sure that I posted the anemometer build in the thread.  I'll go back and have a look.

Cheers

Nope, sorry TRR.  I must have posted them elsewhere.

I've still got the photos.  I'll pop them in when I get a minute.

Hi Max,

Only if it's no problem to post them.  I don't have the skills to duplicate but am always interested in learning how things are done.

Tomlinson Run Railroad

No trouble at all. 

I used 2.0 mm brass tube and 1.0 mm brass rod, which fits inside it and 0.5 mm brass rod for the arms.  I made a highly sophisticated jig.  It was a scrap piece of 16 mm MDF with a 2.0 mm hole drilled in it.

The 2.0 mm tube was inserted through the hole and the 0.5 mm rod was taped in place with masking tape and soldered.

Then I bent up a tail piece and pointer from 0.5 mm brass and soldered them on to another piece of tube.  (I taped them in place first and then bent the tail piece afterwards.)

Then I took some 4.0 mm plastic beads and glued them on to the arms.  I cut the tube of the vane part and made a spacer to go under it.

Then, using a Dremel cut off wheel, I cut the leading parts of the beads to form flats.

I glued a small piece of 0.5 mm styrene into the tail piece.

I painted the whole thing with etch primer and painted the faces flat black to simulate hollow hemispheres.

Does that help, TRR?

>> Does that help, TRR?

Absolutely!  A wonderful combination of creativity and precision.  That's what model making is all about.  The simulation of the hollow cups of the anemometer (see? later in the day, I can spell) is great.

Thanks for taking the time to share your photos along with the brass tube measurements, Max.

TRRR

It was a pleasure, TR.  Not sure how many RR's 

Thanks for Sharing Max, wonderful job once again!

Thanks, Mike.

So, before I can paint the TimeSaver Puzzle part of the plank, I have had to complete the build of the infill of the tracks in the Downtown area, at the back.  I need to be able to stand the buildings there while I work.  I've taken the work to the end of the third module, to include basic real estate around the crossing area.

I've fitted the footpath/pavement/sidewalk along the roadway, making it from 6.0 mm MDF.  The shops and other buildings will each have base plates of 6.0 mm MDF, so that they will drop into place.

You can see the join between the two modules.  That's given me two blocks - one 180 mm or 7" wide and the nearer one 150 mm or 6" wide.  The entire length of the two blocks together, is 2550 mm or 8' 4" long.  That should give me a lot of room for making my street buildings, which is one of my passions.

The large curved area nearest the camera will be open land with a large tree and maybe a garden seat in it.  I envisage an old man (like I am ), sitting there - maybe with his faithful dog. 

Summick like that, anyway. 

MaxSouthOz posted:

So, before I can paint the TimeSaver Puzzle part of the plank, I have had to complete the build of the infill of the tracks in the Downtown area, at the back.  I need to be able to stand the buildings there while I work.  I've taken the work to the end of the third module, to include basic real estate around the crossing area.

I've fitted the footpath/pavement/sidewalk along the roadway, making it from 6.0 mm MDF.  The shops and other buildings will each have base plates of 6.0 mm MDF, so that they will drop into place.

You can see the join between the two modules.  That's given me two blocks - one 180 mm or 7" wide and the nearer one 150 mm or 6" wide.  The entire length of the two blocks together, is 2550 mm or 8' 4" long.  That should give me a lot of room for making my street buildings, which is one of my passions.

The large curved area nearest the camera will be open land with a large tree and maybe a garden seat in it.  I envisage an old man (like I am ), sitting there - maybe with his faithful dog. 

Summick like that, anyway. 

Looks good Max, I like how you did the sidewalks and made it so the building will just drop in. The Road crossing looks good with the warn look to it. I think the tree with a park bench is a great idea for us old guys!

Sure the road crossing is perfect! 'waiting for the street buildings... and the park bench to admire your work!

jp

Thanks, guys. 

Max, honestly your work never ceases to amaze me.  i can't even begin to think of how to come up with some of the things you make nevertheless do it.

Thanks, Joe.

I've been remiss in not pursuing the finishing of the Harbor Master's building, but I wanted to get the shunting puzzle infilled with some basic weathering and a bit of grass, finished.

The third module needed to be refinished.  The old wool shed needed some work doing on the stumps and a bit of grass around the footings.

I hope that you can see where I'm at.  O scale scenery doesn't photograph well in terms of the detail.

The actual "play area" is operational.  I just have to run some more trials on the turnouts, and once I'm confident in them, visitors will be able to enjoy John Allen's idea of a shunting puzzle.

Cheers

From where I'm sitting its looking good Max! Keep up the great work!

I had never noticed the sea lion....

An admirer more!

jp

Thanks, Mike.

The Leopard seal has just made an appearance, JP.  I still haven't decided where he will go. 

MaxSouthOz posted:

Thanks, Mike.

The Leopard seal has just made an appearance, JP.  I still haven't decided where he will go. 

How about any where you need the "seal of approval"?  Ork, ork! :-)  Which on your fine layout will make for one very busy seal!

Tomlinson Run Railroad

OK  You're probably fed up with looking at the Harbor Master's building.  The outside is pretty much done now.  I've got furniture for the offices, but still no people, so I'll have to make a few purchases.

The conduit is to hide the join between the floors.

I think I've got away with it. 

TTFN

P-E-R-F-E-C-T !

jp

Thanks, JP.

Great looking port.

Max, What joint? I don't see any joint! LOL Great idea!

Thanks, Guys. 

I only steal the best ideas. 

Well, I've been distracted from modelling because this year our Division of the NMRA is hosting the National Convention here in Adelaide.  I'm not the Convener, but as Div Super I still have to pull my weight.

Anyhoo, I've managed to do a bit more on the Boatbuilder's/Sailmaker's building.

It's not much, I know - but it's something. 

Now I'd better GET BACK UNDER THE LAYOUT and finish wiring the grade crossing. 

Take care, Max! under the layout the ceiling is low!

jp

jpv69 posted:

Take care, Max! under the layout the ceiling is low!

jp

I know, JP.  The other day my hairdresser commented on all the scar tissue on the top of my head.