If you buy the 600 LED strip, you'll have twice as many LED, and more density when you make the mods.
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If you buy the 600 LED strip, you'll have twice as many LED, and more density when you make the mods.
If you buy the 600 LED strip, you'll have twice as many LED, and more density when you make the mods.
Good point. The 600 LED versions are double-density or a 3-LED section every inch (vs. every 2 inches).
And yet another option to confuse matters would be an inexpensive step-up voltage regulator module. This takes, say, 5V DC as is available from the LM2596 regulator module and steps it back up to 12V DC (or whatever voltage is suitable brightness) to drive an un-modified 12V LED strip. Search ebay for "MT3608 module".
Seems complicated to first reduce the voltage down to 5V then increase it back to 12V. But while maybe not needed in this application, it's generally easier to find lower-voltage (5V vs. 12V) compact energy storage components (supercap or batteries). So when you run the numbers on the cost/availability of a 5V supercap vs. a 12V supercap, it could be advantageous to go with a 5V energy storage device and pay $1.50 to convert it to 12V. Many ways to go with these low-cost, compact, electronic modules!
Gentleman Thank you.
John, I like to the idea of 600 LED strip. How I was part people to sat on the other side of the fence and purchased a lot of 300 LED as part of thread "Are these LED o.k.?" So for now I would like to work from my inventory.
Stan, Also like MT3608 module, that is a neat little packaging. But I have built over 25 GRJ LED Special and I was think of use one of those for the LED on the roof.
One question for both of you. Since this is my first build/modification any advice for this rookie beside technical information beyond electronic build.
Here's my recommendation for dealing with track dropouts. In studying the MP3 player, it appears it already has a magic diode ON BOARD! This means just a capacitor is needed to "isolate" the capacitor so that on a power dropout the capacitor only powers the MP3 player so it does not reset.
There's a lot of tedious technical details about current limits and such, but I did test this approach and am convinced it will work for O-gauge rolling-stock.
In a previous discussion, I recommended adding a 1uF capacitor to the MP3 board as shown in the photo. That would be suitable for a trackside accessory sound application such as the crossing-gate bell sounds. But for rolling stock, I recommend changing this capacitor to at least 1000uF. I start with 1000uF because I think you said you have these lying around. Because this board operates at 5V DC, you only need a 6V or 10V capacitor...but if you have spare 35V capacitor lying around then so be it.
1000uF will get you at least 0.1 sec of dropout protection. In other words the audio amplifier and any LEDs running on the LM2596 5V DC supply will flicker/dropout when track voltage drops out...but the MP3 player will not reset for at least 0.1 sec. Is 0.1 sec enough? That's a function of your track/wheels/rail-gaps/etc. You can double up the capacitors to get double the protection by using 2 1000uF capacitors (i.e., a 2000uF capacitor). I tested a 3300uF capacitor and got at least 0.5 sec of dropout protection for the MP3 player. As the photo shows a 1000uF 35V cap is fairly large; a 1000uF/10V capacitor is much smaller...but again I see the 35V cap runs about 10 cents on eBay with free shipping in small lots and is a part you might have lying around from an LED passenger car project. So depending on what you have lying around or if you want to buy more stuff off eBay, it should not cost much.
Just be careful to mind the polarity of the capacitor(s) attach + and - where indicated.
As for general advice, just remember this is not rocket science. I think it's worth a few extra minutes to think about what you're doing and what each component and module is doing. If you're not sure, just ask.
Hi Stan
Thanks for the information as to where and what position the 1000 uf get placed.
I checked out your web page with the videos, very nice stuff on it. Once I have this build done one of those will be my next project.
Like you said THIS project is not rocket science and between you and John have made it very easy to understand and have been both very helpful in answer my questions. On the other hand John MP3 project is a advance PHD class and most stuff when over my head in the middle of the second page on that thread.
John thanks for being there for first install of a board and my first build project.
Good morning
I have a quick question. I was think of using 3M double side tape to hold the amp, MP3 and Buck in in place and not flop around inside the car. Is that o.k. or should I use something else?
That works fine, however I use sticky-back Velcro, that allows me to easily remove them if I need to work on them.
Note the MP3 player has the button controls on the back side of the board. Granted you may only have to set the volume once. So if some way to keep the buttons accessible...
FWIW, I get my adhesive-backed velcro at JoAnns fabric/craft store (if you have them) since you can buy it by-the-foot and in various widths (1/2", 3/4", etc.). If you use one of their 50% off coupons from the Sunday paper it becomes quite reasonable.
I buy mine at Home Depot, I get it in 15 foot rolls 3/4" wide. It comes in black or white.
Thank you gentlemen for the pointers on Velcro.
Also quick question could I use a 1000 uf 50 V cap instead of a 1000 uf 35 V cap?
Sure, it'll work fine, just bigger than necessary.
I got my lifetime supply from eBay but several years ago. Seems to me I was paying $1/page (8x11) but I was looking at eBay again and good luck getting that price.
I'm assuming you know about the issues of how to "print" white if that's what you need. Do you have a link to the actual image you want?
Also it appears your surface is smooth and not ribbed? That makes life sooo much easier for applying DIY decals!
Dear gentlemen
Thanks you for your replies.
Stan I liberated an image from a Yahoo pictures search.
Hi
This is for the people looking over the fence. He is some advice on building this project. I keep everything for one project in a zip lock bag so the part do not get missed placed. Since of RS is reducing it size you just can not run out and get the parts you missing or misplaced. Also note the lead time for China has great extend the build time but for the price of the parts you can not beat the deals you get.
I hit a snag I THOUGH I had SD cards it turns out they are HD cards and they will not fit in the MP3 player. I found this out when I started downloading sounds from the internet and what to store them on a SD card. So I ordered some SD from China and they should be here next week.
There's always something. I note that my MP3 player suggests Class 4 cards, so I'm careful to buy that type.
I presume by "not fit", you mean they won't function properly?
Hi John
HD cards are a different size than the SD and will not fit the SD slot. What is the different between a class 10 and class 4 SD card?
Just the speed of the memory AFAIK, they're the same size.
I've probably never seen an HD card, no reason to buy one yet.
I can't even find a different size card, all I see are...
SD - 0 to 2gb
SDHC - 4 - 32gb
SDXC - 32 - 128gb.
All of these cards are the same physical size.
What's the SD HD card?
Kris, did you order an SD or microSD? The $1.07 MP3 player uses a microSD which is much smaller than an SD. With a microSD you typically get an adapter to make it into a regular SD so to speak. I recently got a 64MByte microSD (with an adapter) for 99 cents with free shipping on eBay (121660652553). 64MB will hold well over an hour of MP3 songs.
Most laptops and such take an SD (not microSD) so you use the adapter to transfer the MP3 files onto the microSD. In the case of the MP3 player shown, you can also use a mini-USB cable plugged into the connector on the bottom left to transfer files to the microSD card plugged into the player.
There's also the mini-SD, a seldom used format, but I've encountered it, and I think I even have one in some device around here.
Dear Gentlemen
I made a mistake it is not HD but a XD card. I hate wearing reading glass, I think I am too young for it but my eyes say other wise, sorry. I purchased a GB 64 micro with the adapter.
Well, the small card should fit, but the player likely doesn't recognize the XD format, the addressing is different.
Dear Gentlemen
I soldering iron got hot for a few minutes today because Jr. fell asleep I got a chance to solder today. A small mod to Stan plan, I soldered the GRJ special to the bridge ref. system which is connected to the DC/DC bucks step down on the A/C side. I also able to attach the FRED 270ohm resistor on to the DC/DC Buck on the DC 5V side. I was able to attach the remote as well. That is as far as I got due to Jr waking up and there went that idea. It looks a little sloppy as I really not that good with soldering iron yet.
John I purchased a blinking strobe from your vendor and I was wondering if a 470 ohm resistor would work or do I need something else? Also what power source for the blinking strobe the GRJ special or do I place it on the 5V Dc side. I believe it belongs on the GRJ special side but want to confirm with you where you would place it. Or do I attach the 470 ohm resistor (or another resistor value) to the LED strip after the GRJ special?
Stan on the MP3 player where do I solder the 5 V DC power? It is not clear on the pictures. Also the sound coming from the MP3 plug to the sound amp that also is not clear. Where does the MP 3 player sound wire solder on to the sound amp.
Pardon my confusion, but what is the GRJ Special? Are you talking about the LED Lighting power module?
If you're talking about the lighting module, you have to be careful how you apply it. This is a constant current supply, and not constant voltage. That being the case, it supplies whatever voltage it requires to attain the constant current commanded by the current adjustment pot. It's not really suitable for powering the non-LED devices as most of them require constant voltage.
Here is the original photo of the 5V DC connection to the MP3 player.
And I enlarged the area in question below. This does requires some careful soldering. You don't need thick wires since the current is minimal (tens of mA)... so 26 or 28 gauge or whatever you have lying around is fine.
Since your application is mono, you don't need to hook up both left and right audio signals from the MP3 player to the audio amp. In the original photo below, I show how the 1/8" standard stereo 3-pin audio plug as you find on headphones or earbuds could be cut/stripped to pick off the left and right audio signal. You'll need to use a meter to match the plug contact to the wire. You can go thru this exercise...or you can solder one wire from jack contact in the photo above labeled "LEFT" in yellow over to the audio amp input labeled "L" on the lower left corner of the amplifier board. Of course in doing this you can't disconnect the two boards but there's no reason you'd need to do so once everything is up and running.
Dear John
Quick question.
What size resistor would you use on the following set up. All I have are 1/4 watt resistors. I sent the vendor an e-mail and no joy.
"I have a questing in regards to the 3mm flashing led. I would like to use a 5v dc to power the led. If I used a 1/4 resistor what would the ohms rating need to be used?
3mm White Water Clear Flashing LED's
http://www.led-switch.com/3mm%20LED.htm"
Well, from the website...
All 3mm LED's operate on 20ma except 3mm Flashing that work on 10 ma...
So, if you believed the 2.0 volts operating voltage, that would be a 300 ohm resistor. That will certainly work, though it's been my experience that flashing LED's tend to operate at slightly higher voltages. A safe choice would be the 300 ohm or for a common size, 330 ohm.
Hi John
Thanks for the info. So at 5VDc I should be o.k.? Is there a website that I could use and drop in values and it would give me the resistor value?
5V DC with 330 ohms will light your flashing LED, if that's what you're asking.
This is all simple Ohm's Law, so a good place would be the Ohm's Law Calculator.
We started with the assumptions...
5VDC Power Supply
10ma Current
2 volt LED
That indicates we need to get rid of 3 volts at 10ma.
Plugging those into that calculator...
Hi John
Thanks again this all new to me.
Consider this Electronics 101.
Dear John
Thank again.
This is for the folks "looking over the fence". Here is some advise if you want to build something like this. When I original in visioned this all the electronic where to fit into the caboose, it had plenty of room, boy was I wrong. I add some extras and get what I ran out of room in the caboose. Now I have a caboose, box car and flat car with electronic to run this.
Yes, all that space goes really fast. I built one of GRJ's voltage cars. Used a Lionel box car that appeared to be plenty big at the beginning. I got it all in there, but was wishing I had used a larger one by the time it was finished. It was pretty tight. One of those new 86' auto parts cars might be just ticket, that is if you could justify the cost and then butchering it by cutting big holes in the sides for the volt meters.
The big positive of Stan's building block approach is he finds stuff on eBay that cost peanuts, so the project is really cheap. The downside is all those separate pieces really take up space!
No problem fitting a command controlled sound module into this boxcar, and I suspect I could get it into a caboose.
The RF version is even smaller and more compact.
Hi John
NICE!
Which supplier did you get the speaker and baffle?
Kris, the speaker/baffle is the ERR 1.5" one, I have about a dozen or so from upgrades where I used the existing speaker, so it's a perfect supply for other projects like this. The smaller speaker is perfect for this task, and has plenty of volume.
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